Rainbow Unicorn CAL Part 3

Amigurumi Crochet – Free Crochet Along

MTR Rainbow Unicorn slider2
MTR Rainbow Unicorn slider1
MTR Rainbow Unicorn slider6
MTR Rainbow Unicorn slider4
MTR Rainbow Unicorn slider5
MTR Rainbow Unicorn slider7
MTR Rainbow Unicorn slider3
MTR Rainbow Unicorn slider2 MTR Rainbow Unicorn slider1 MTR Rainbow Unicorn slider6 MTR Rainbow Unicorn slider4 MTR Rainbow Unicorn slider5 MTR Rainbow Unicorn slider7 MTR Rainbow Unicorn slider3

HOW A FREE CROCHET ALONG WORKS

  • This is a re-launch of my 2nd Melly Teddy Ragdoll originally published in October 2019 – the pattern has been updated and large sections re-designed.
  • The print friendly button at the end of each part is ONLY available DURING the crochet along.
  • A PDF pattern will be available to purchase after the CAL is finished.
  • The pattern is released in 6 parts, 2 parts a week, over 3 weeks and each part is available for free on my blog.
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CAL DATES

  • Click HERE for the Pattern Preamble and links to Parts – 4 November 2024
  • Part 1 – 12 November 2024
  • Part 2 – 15 November 2024
  • Part 3 – 19 November 2024
  • Part 4 – 22 November 2024
  • Part 5 – 26 November 2024
  • Part 6 – 29 November 2024

PURCHASE THE PDF CROCHET PATTERN

If you would like to purchase the PDF pattern, follow the link below to your preferred shop

  • Click HERE to purchase from my Ravelry Store
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WHAT YOU GET INCLUDED IN THE PAID PATTERN

  • A PDF pattern with easy-to-follow written instructions.
  • Over 50 clear tutorial photographs.
  • A print friendly version.
  • A unique birth certificate
  • Full pattern support.

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Etsy

  • Coupon code: SAVE15 Purchase any 2 patterns and get 15% discount
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Part 3

HOOVES AND FRONT LEGS – BOTH

Make two for each ragdoll. Using colour (SILVER), make a magic circle.

Helpful hint: we are working in rounds.

Round 1

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc 6 into mc, place st marker in 6th sc and continue to work in the round (6 sc).

Helpful hint: move the stitch marker (or use a running marker) and place in the last stitch of each round; this will help keep your stitch count correct and help with round counting.  Because we are working quite tightly in the round, I weave my starting tail in whilst working round 2.

Round 2

*Sc 2 into next st*, rep *.* 5 more times (12 sc).

Round 3

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next st*, rep *.* 5 more times (18 sc).

Round 4

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 2 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (24 sc).

Round 5

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 3 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (30 sc).

Round 6

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 4 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (36 sc).

Round 7 – BLO

Sc into BLO of next 36 sts (36 BLO sc).

Rounds 8 – 10

Sc into next 36 sts (36 sc).

Round 11 – change colour at end of round

Sc into next 36 sts, (colour change to PORCELAIN) by finishing off the last st with the new colour (36 sc).  Cut (SILVER) leaving a 15 cm tail.

Helpful hint: do not work in the (SILVER) tail whilst doing the next round, work it in when you do round 13.

Round 12

Helpful hint: make this round slightly loose or go up half a hook size if your tension is very tight, so that you do not struggle to make round 13.

Using colour (PORCELAIN), ss into next 36 sts (36 ss).

Round 13 – working into round 11 and centre of slip stitches from round 12

Helpful hint: make the single crochet stitches for this round into the middle of the slip stitch from the previous round AND into the single crochet stitches from round 11.

Sc into next 36 sts (36 sc).

Helpful hint: work in the (SILVER) tail whilst doing the next round.

Round 14

Sc into next 36 sts (36 sc).

Round 15

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 4 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (30 sc).

Round 16

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 3 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (24 sc).

Round 17

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 2 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (18 sc).

Round 18

Sc into next 18 sts (18 sc). At the end of round 18 cut yarn leaving a 20 cm tail to close the “wrist” section to keep the stuffing inside the hand. We will do this after the next few rounds.

Helpful hint: you can stuff the front leg now, the leg should be firm, be careful not to overstuff.

Round 19

Using colour (GIRL – HONEYDEW MELON) / (BOY – SWEET PEA), join with a ss into the 1st sc from previous round, ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same st, dc into next 17 sts, ss into 1st st (18 dc).

Rounds 20 – 27

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same st, dc into next 17 sts, ss into 1st st (18 dc).

Helpful hint: firmly stuff the front hooves after a few rounds. To make an “ankle” and secure the stuffing into the hoof, use the tail from round 18 to stitch the opening closed between rounds 18 and 19. Stitch the ankle area twice to make sure it is closed securely. The front leg is not stuffed so you can cut the yarn and weave in the end, then continue finishing the rounds up to round 29.

Round 28

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same sp, sc into next 17 sts, ss into 1st st (18 sc), ss the opening closed in BLO, cut yarn leaving a 30 cm tail.

Helpful hint: we will attach the front legs to the body in Part 6.

HOOVES AND BACK LEGS – BOTH

Make two for each ragdoll. Using colour (SILVER), make a magic circle.

Helpful hint: we are working in rounds.

Round 1
Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc 6 into mc, place st marker in 6th sc and continue to work in the round (6 sc).

Helpful hint: move the stitch marker (or use a running marker) and place in the last stitch of each round; this will help keep your stitch count correct and help with round counting.  Because we are working quite tightly in the round, I weave my starting tail in whilst working round 2.

Round 2

*Sc 2 into next st*, rep *.* 5 more times (12 sc).

Round 3

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next st*, rep *.* 5 more times (18 sc).

Round 4

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 2 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (24 sc).

Round 5

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 3 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (30 sc).

Round 6

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 4 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (36 sc).

Round 7 – BLO

Sc into BLO of next 36 sts (36 BLO sc).

Rounds 8 – 10

Sc into next 36 sts (36 sc).

Round 11 – change colour at end of round

Sc into next 36 sts, (colour change to PORCELAIN) by finishing off the last st with the new colour (36 sc).  Cut (SILVER) leaving a 15 cm tail.

Helpful hint: do not work in the (SILVER) tail whilst doing the next round, work it in when you do round 13.

Round 12

Helpful hint: make this round slightly loose or go up half a hook size if your tension is very tight, so that you do not struggle to make round 13.

Using colour (SILVER), ss into next 36 sts (36 ss).

Round 13 – working into round 11 and centre of slip stitches from round 12

Helpful hint: make the single crochet stitches for this round into the middle of the slip stitch from the previous round AND into the single crochet stitches from round 11.

Sc into next 36 sts (36 sc).

Helpful hint: work in the (PORCELAIN) starting tail whilst doing the next round.

Round 14

Sc into next 36 sts (36 sc).

Round 15

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 4 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (30 sc).

Helpful hint: you can stuff the back leg now, the leg should be firm, be careful not to overstuff.

Round 16

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 3 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (24 sc).

Rounds 17 – 25

Sc into next 24 sts (24 sc), at the end of round 25, ss the opening closed in BLO, cut yarn and weave in end.

Helpful hint: we will attach the back legs to the body in Part 6.

PATTERN SUPPORT

TEST TEAM

  • A big thank you to my amazing, patient test team – I could not do this without your help, encouragement, and hours of challenging work – You all ROCK!

THANK YOU

Thank you for your support and I hope that you enjoy making this pattern as much as I did during the design process.

Hugs xxx

Melanie

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