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Maddy Doll Erica Elephant

Amigurumi Crochet – Free Pattern

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WHAT YOU WILL CROCHET

  • A Maddy Doll is an amigurumi soft toy.  The crochet technique of amigurumi is the same as regular crochet but is the process of making 3D toys.  It involves working in the round, making spheres which are then stuffed to form the head, body and limbs of adorable little animals and dolls.

FINISHED SIZE

  • The doll is 41 cm (16 inches) from the top of the head to the bottom of the feet.

CROCHET SKILL

  • Adventurous beginner – you will need a basic knowledge of the amigurumi technique.
  • The pattern has loads of clear colour tutorial photos.
  • There are helpful hints along the way which are highlighted in purple.

TERMINOLOGY

  • US with metric sizes.

WHAT YOU NEED

  • 2.5 mm hook
  • Stuffing
  • Small amount of white embroidery thread or yarn for the eyes
  • Small amount of black embroidery thread or yarn for the eyelashes
  • 1 x piece 15 x 15 cm cardboard (6 x 6 inches) (optional)
  • 1 x pair 12 mm (1/2 inch) safety eyes
  • Sewing needle
  • Stitch markers
  • 2.5 mm double sided knitting needle (optional)
  • Scissors
  • Pins
  • 400g (880m) 4 Ply Sport 100% bamboo viscose Eco-friendly (50 grams/111 meters)
    • 150g grey, 50g silver, 50g sugar purple, 50g prince pink, 50g forest

WHAT YOU GET INCLUDED IN THE PAID PDF PATTERN

  • A PDF pattern with easy-to-follow written instructions.
  • Over 50 clear tutorial photographs
  • A print friendly version.
  • A unique Birth Certificate that you can complete and print out.
  • Full pattern support.

PATTERN NOTES

  • My pattern uses US terminology.
  • Always read the pattern before you start crocheting to familiarize yourself with it.
  • Colours are for reference only and will vary depending on the light settings of your monitor/devices.
  • Some of the photo tutorials are from other designs or will show more completed parts, so do not worry about the colour or other parts – use them as a guide to check your work looks as it should.
  • My Maddy Dolls are designed using safety eyes; if gifting to babies and small children please remember safety first – you are welcome to embroider the eyes.
  • The pattern was designed in bamboo but can be made in any yarn. Just remember to use the correct hook size for the yarn you have chosen.
  • If you are working in thicker or thinner yarn your doll size may vary.
  • Tension and hook size could also influence the overall size.
  • And lastly, COUNT your stitches and have loads of FUN.

HELPFUL TIPS

  • Secure starting ends as you go along by weaving the beginning tail in whilst working the next round.
  • When changing colours, do not finish off the final stitch; add new colour and finish off the last stitch to complete the colour change.
  • When changing colours, do not cut the yarn until told to do so.
  • The best way to make sure that your tail is long enough to attach the piece to the doll is to run the yarn close to the edge of the piece and cut the yarn 2 ½ times the length.
  • When instructed to work in back loop only, the back loop will always be the back loop of the indicated stitch.
  • Chain stitches and slip stitches do not count as a stitch unless otherwise indicated.
  • Stitch counts are at the end of each round/row, bold and in parentheses.
  • When working in the round, use a stitch marker or a running stitch marker to keep track of the rounds/rows.
  • When working in the round, I usually always start with an increase in the 1st stitch, so if your increase stitch falls in the 1st stitch of the increase stitch from the last round, your stitch count should be correct unless otherwise indicated.
  • Add stuffing as you go along unless otherwise indicated. The pieces should be firm but be careful not to overstuff. If you can see your stuffing through your stitches, you have either added too much stuffing or you need to drop a hook size as your stitches are not tight enough.
  • After cutting your yarn at the end of a piece, pull the yarn through the last stitch. Do not make any knots.
  • Some ends are woven in as we go along and some at the end, so read the instructions carefully.

ABBREVIATIONS

TERM ABBREVIATION STITCH INSTRUCTIONS
Back loop only BLO Insert hook into the back loop of the stitch only.
Chain ch Yarn over, pull through.
Double crochet dc Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through two loops.
Five double crochet cluster 5 dc cl *Yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop*, rep *.* 4 more times (6 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through six loops, chain one to secure.
Front loop only FLO Insert hook into the front loop of the stitch only.
Half double crochet hdc Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through all three loops.
Invisible single crochet two together inv sc2tog Insert hook into the front loop only of the next two stitches, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through two loops.
Magic circle mc Link to how I make a magic circle.
Needle join nj When you have finished your last stitch, do not join, instead cut the yarn, and pull it through the last stitch. Using a needle, insert into both loops of the second stitch of the same round/row. Go back into the back loop only of the last stitch of the round/row, and gently tighten the join, and it will form a “loop” on top of the stitch and look just like a regular stitch.

Link to how I make a needle join

Repeat rep Repeat the stitches between *.* the required number of times.
Seven double crochet shell 7 dc shell Make seven double crochet stitches into the same indicated stitch.
Single crochet sc Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through two loops.
Skip sk Skip a stitch or space.
Slip stitch ss Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull through both the stitch and loop on hook.
Space/s sp/s The space between the stitches.
Stitch/es st/s The stitch itself.

PATTERN

TRUNK AND HEAD

Make one. Using colour (GREY), make a magic circle.

Helpful hint: we are working in rounds.

Round 1 – tip of the trunk

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc 6 into mc, place st marker in 6th sc and continue to work in the round (6 sc).
Helpful hint: move the stitch marker and place in the last stitch of each round; this will help keep your stitch count correct and help with round counting.  Because we are working quite tightly in the round, I weave my beginning tail in whilst working round 2.

Round 2

*Sc 2 into next st* rep *.* 5 more times (12 sc).

Round 3 – BLO

Sc into BLO next 12 sts (12 BLO sc).

Round 4

Helpful hint: we are going to be making some slip stitches at the bottom of the trunk, this is so that the trunk curls slightly towards the body of the elephant.  Make your slip stitches loosely as you will need to work into them over the next several rounds.

Ss into FLO next st, sc into next 10 sts, ss into FLO next st [2 ss FLO, 10 sc] (12 sts).

Round 5

Ss into FLO next 2 sts, sc into next 8 sts, ss into FLO next 2 sts [4 ss FLO, 8 sc] (12 sts).

Round 6

Ss into FLO next 3 sts, *sc 2 into next st, sc into next 2 sts* rep *.* 1 more time, sc 2 into next st, ss into FLO next 2 sts [5 ss FLO, 10 sc] (15 sts).

Rounds 7 – 9

Ss into FLO next 3 sts, sc into next 10 sts, ss into FLO next 2 sts [5 ss FLO, 10 sc] (15 sts).

Round 10

Ss into FLO next 4 sts, *sc 2 into next st, sc into next 2 sts* rep *.* 2 more times, sc into next st, ss into FLO next st [5 ss FLO, 13 sc] (18 sts).

Rounds 11 – 13

Ss into FLO next 5 sts, sc into next 13 sts [5 ss FLO, 13 sc] (18 sts).

Helpful hint: if your trunk has started to curl slightly you are doing it right.  One side is now shorter than the other side.

Round 14

Ss into FLO next 5 sts, sc into next st *sc 2 into next st, sc into next 2 sts* rep *.* 3 more times, [5 ss FLO, 17 sc] (22 sts).

Round 15

Ss into FLO next 5 sts, sc into next 17 sts [5 ss FLO, 17 sc] (22 sts).

Round 16

Sc into next st, ss into FLO next 5 sts, *sc 2 into next st, sc into next 3 sts* rep *.* 3 more times [5 ss FLO, 21 sc] (26 sts).

Rounds 17 – 18

Sc into next 2 sts, ss into FLO next 5 sts, sc into next 19 sts [5 ss FLO, 21 sc] (26 sts).

Round 19

Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 2 sts, ss into FLO next 5 sts, sc into next 18 sts [5 ss FLO, 22 sc] (27 sts).

Round 20

Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 3 sts, ss into FLO next 5 sts, *sc 2 into next st, sc into next 8 sts* rep *.* 1 more time [5 ss FLO, 25 sc] (30 sts).

Rounds 21 – 22

Sc into next 6 sts, ss into FLO next 5 sts, sc into next 19 sts [5 ss FLO, 25 sc] (30 sts).

Round 23

Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 4 sts, ss into FLO next 5 sts, *sc 2 into next st, sc into next 9 sts* rep *.* 1 more time [5 ss FLO, 28 sc] (33 sts).

Round 24

Sc into next 7 sts, ss into FLO next 5 sts, sc into next 21 sts [5 ss FLO, 28 sc] (33 sts).

Round 25

Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 5 sts, ss into FLO next 5 sts, *sc 2 into next st, sc into next 10 sts* rep *.* 1 more time [5 ss FLO, 31 sc] (36 sts).

Round 26

Sc into next 8 sts, ss into FLO next 5 sts, sc into next 23 sts [5 ss FLO, 31 sc] (36 sts).

Round 27

Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 5 sts, sc 2 into next st, sc into next 2 sts, ss into FLO next 5 sts, *sc 2 into next st, sc into next 5 sts* rep *.* 2 more times, sc 2 into next st, sc into next 3 sts [5 ss FLO, sc 37] (42 sts).

Round 28

Sc into next 11 sts, ss into FLO next 5 sts, sc into next 26 sts [5 ss FLO, 37 sc] (42 sts).

Round 29

Sc into next 3 sts, sc 2 into next st, sc into next 6 sts, sc 2 into next st, sc into next 2 sts, ss into FLO next 5 sts, *sc 2 into next st, sc into next 6 sts* rep *.* 2 more times, sc 2 into next st, sc into next 2 sts [5 ss FLO, sc 43] (48 sts).

Round 30

Sc into next 14 sts, ss into FLO next 5 sts, sc into next 29 sts [5 ss FLO, 43 sc] (48 sts).

Helpful hint: this was the last round of slip stitches.

Round 31

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 7 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (54 sc).

Round 32

Sc into next 54 sts (54 sc).

Round 33

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 8 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (60 sc).

Helpful hint: you can add some stuffing to the trunk now to give it some shape.

Rounds 34 – 35

Sc into next 60 sts (60 sc).

Round 36

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 9 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (66 sc).

Round 37

Sc into next 66 sts (66 sc).

Round 38

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 10 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (72 sc).

Rounds 39 – 45

Sc into next 72 sts (72 sc).

Helpful hint: add safety eyes to round 36, between 24 – 26 stitches apart.  You can now add stuffing to the trunk. It should be firm, be careful not to overstuff.

Rounds 46

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 10 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (66 sc).
Round 47

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 9 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (60 sc).
Rounds 48 – 49

Sc into next 60 sts (60 sc).

Round 50

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 8 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (54 sc).

Round 51

Sc into next 54 sts (54 sc).

Round 52

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 7 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (48 sc).

Round 53

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 6 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (42 sc).

Round 54
*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 5 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (36 sc).

Round 55
*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 4 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (30 sc).

Helpful hint: you can stuff the head now, and then just add more stuffing in before you close off after the last round, the head should be firm, be careful not to overstuff.

Round 56
*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 3 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (24 sc).

Round 57
*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 2 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (18 sc).

Round 58
*Inv sc2tog, sc into next st* rep *.* 5 more times (12 sc).

Round – back of head

*Inv sc2tog, rep *.* 5 more times (6 sc), cut yarn, use a sewing needle to sew end through FLO of each st, pull tight and weave in end.

Helpful hint: this is the back of the head.  We will attach it to the body in Part 6.

SCULPTING THE EYES

If you would like to sculpt the face you can do so.  Cut a 30 cm piece of colour (GREY) and thread it into a yarn needle.  Insert the yarn needle into the head just below one eye, then thread the needle through the head, to just below the other eye, pulling through and then going back the same way but 1 mm away from where you started.  Then pull gently until the eyes pull closer together and repeat.  Cut yarn and weave in ends.

EARS

Make two. Using colour (GREY), make a magic circle.

Helpful hint: we are working in rounds.

Round 1

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc 10 into mc, place st marker in 10th sc and continue to work in the round (10 sc).

Helpful hint: move the stitch marker and place in the last stitch of each round; this will help keep your stitch count correct and help with round counting. Because we are working quite tightly in the round, I weave my beginning tail in whilst working round 2.

Round 2

*Sc 2 into next st* rep *.* 9 more times (20 sc).

Round 3

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next st* rep *.* 9 more times (30 sc).

Round 4

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 2 sts* rep *.* 9 more times (40 sc).

Round 5

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 3 sts* rep *.*  9 more times (50 sc).

Round 6

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 4 sts* rep *.* 9 more times (60 sc).

Round 7

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 5 sts* rep *.* 9 more times (70 sc).

Helpful hint: your crochet will start to “wobble” and curl – it must, you will see why later.

Round 8

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 6 sts* rep *.* 9 more times (80 sc).

Round 9

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 7 sts* rep *.* 9 more times (90 sc).

Round 10

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 8 sts* rep *.* 9 more times (100 sc).

Round 11

Sc into next 100 sts (100 sc), fold ear in half, using a yarn needle whip stitch the opening closed in BLO, cut yarn leaving a 50 cm tail.

Helpful hint: we will use the tail end to attach the ears to the head in Part 6.

 

FINISHING THE EARS

Fold one corner of the ear down towards the magic circle/round 1 (this is the top of the ear), using the tail end slip stitch the folded section to the ear along the outside, DO NOT cut your yarn.  Repeat with 2nd ear but remember to turn and stitch the opposite tip down so that the ears both face the same direction.

 

ATTACHING THE EARS

Pin the ears into place. I used rounds 41 – 44 of the head as a guide, bringing the bottom of the ear slightly towards the trunk. The ears are 18 – 20 stitches apart from the top of one ear to the top of the other ear and over the top of the head. The bottom of the ears are 6-7 visible stitches below the eyes. Using the tail end attach the ear to the head and weave in end. Repeat with the other ear.

 

ADDING THE EYELASHES

Add a small amount of (WHITE) under each eye. Using colour (BLACK), add eyelashes to each eye. This is just a suggestion, you can do whatever you like with your elephant – embroider the eyes, use your imagination, the elephant is your unique creation, and I cannot wait to see all your beautiful dolls.

FRONT LEGS

Make two.  Using colour (GREY), make a magic circle.

Helpful hint: we are working in the round.

Round 1

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc 6 into mc, place st marker in 6th sc and continue to work in the round (6 sc).

Helpful hint: move the stitch marker (or use a running marker) and place in the last stitch of each round; this will help keep your stitch count correct and help with round counting.  Because we are working quite tightly in the round, I weave my starting tail in whilst working round 2.

Round 2

*Sc 2 into next st* rep *.* 5 more times (12 sc).

Round 3

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next st* rep *.* 5 more times (18 sc).

Round 4

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 2 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (24 sc).

Round 5

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 3 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (30 sc).

Round 6

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 4 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (36 sc).

Round 7 – BLO

Helpful hint: add a stitch marker to the 14th stitch of this round – it is where you will make your first toenail later on in the pattern.

Sc into BLO of next 36 sts (36 BLO sc).

Rounds 8 – 14

Sc into next 36 sts (36 sc).

Helpful hint: place a sm in the last stitch of round 14 to prevent your work from unravelling whilst we make the toenails.

 

ADDING TOENAILS

Make three on each foot. Using colour (SILVER), join in the 14th stitch (where you placed the sm in round 7) between rounds 7 and 8 with a ss, make a 5 dc cl st, ch 1, cut yarn leaving a 15 cm tail, pull the tail through the foot on round 10, pull the starting tail through the foot between rounds 7 and 8 and tie the ends together on the inside.  Sk 3 sts to one side of this 1st cl st and repeat the instructions.  Sk 3 sts to one side of this 1st cl st and repeat the instructions.

You should have 3 little toenails lined between round 6 and round 8, 3 stitches apart, well secured on the inside of the foot.

Round 15 – front legs continued

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 4 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (30 sc).

Round 16

Sc into next 30 sts (30 sc).

Round 17

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 3 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (24 sc).

Rounds 18 – 19

Sc into next 24 sts (24 sc).

Round 20

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 2 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (18 sc).

Rounds 21 – 23

Sc into next 18 sts (18 sc).

Round 24

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 7 sts* rep *.* 1 more time (16 sc).

Helpful hint: stuff the foot until firm, be careful not to overstuff.

Rounds 25 – 36

Sc into next 16 sts (16 sc).

At the end of round 36, stuff the leg until firm, be careful not to overstuff.

Round 37

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 2 sts* rep *.* 3 more times (12 sc).  Cut yarn leaving a 15 cm tail, nj into 2nd st and carefully weave the tail end into the inside of the leg.

Helpful hint: we will attach the front legs to the body when we make the shoulders.

Helpful hint: place a stitch marker into the 9th stitch of one arm (will become the left arm) and a stitch marker into the 3rd stitch of the other arm (will become the right arm).  You will join the arms in the stitches marked with the stitch marker when you add the arms to the body later in the pattern.

 

BACK LEGS

Make two.  Using colour (GREY), make a magic circle.

Helpful hint: we are working in the round.

Round 1

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc 8 into mc, place st marker in 8th sc and continue to work in the round (8 sc).

Helpful hint: move the stitch marker (or use a running marker) and place in the last stitch of each round; this will help keep your stitch count correct and help with round counting.  Because we are working quite tightly in the round, I weave my starting tail in whilst working round 2.

Round 2

*Sc 2 into next st* rep *.* 7 more times (16 sc).

Round 3

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next st* rep *.* 7 more times (24 sc).

Round 4

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 2 sts* rep *.* 7 more times (32 sc).

Round 5

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 3 sts* rep *.* 7 more times (40 sc).

Round 6

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 4 sts* rep *.* 7 more times (48 sc).

Helpful hint: place your  work onto a piece of cardboard and draw around the crochet circle.  Cut out 4 circles.  We will add the cardboard after round 15 is completed.

Round 7 – BLO

Sc into BLO of next 48 sts (48 BLO sc).

Rounds 8 – 13

Sc into next 48 sts (48 sc).

Round 14

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 4 sts* rep *.* 7 more times (40 sc).

Round 15

Sc into next 40 sts (40 sc).

Round 16

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 3 sts* rep *.* 7 more times (32 sc).

Helpful hint: place two pieces of the cut out cardboad circles and insert into your work.

Rounds 17 – 18

Sc into next 32 sts (32 sc).

Round 19

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 2 sts* rep *.* 7 more times (24 sc).

Rounds 20 – 22

Sc into next 24 sts (24 sc).

Round 23

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 4 sts* rep *.* 3 more times (20 sc).

Helpful hint: stuff the foot until firm, be careful not to overstuff.

Rounds 24 – 42

Sc into next 20 sts (20 sc).

Round 43 – change colour at end of round

Sc into next 20 sts, (colour change to PRINCE PINK) by finishing off the last st with the new colour (20 sc).  Cut (GREY) leaving a 15 cm tail.

Helpful hint: do not work in the (GREY) tail whilst doing the next round, work it in when you do round 45.

Round 44

Helpful hint: make this round slightly loose or go up half a hook size if your tension is very tight, so that you do not struggle to make round 45.

Using colour (PRINCE PINK), ss into next 20 sts (20 ss).

Helpful hint: work in the (GREY) tail whilst doing the next round.

Round 45 – working into round 43 and the centre of the slip stitches from round 44.

Helpful hint: make the single crochet stitches for this round into the middle of the slip stitch from the previous round AND into the single crochet stitches from round 43.

Sc into next 20 sts (20 sc).

Helpful hint: work in the (PRINCE PINK) starting tail whilst doing the next round.

Round 46

Sc into next 20 sts (20 sc).  Cut yarn leaving a 15 cm tail, nj into 2nd st and carefully weave the tail end into the inside of the leg.  Stuff the leg until firm, be careful not to overstuff.

Helpful hint: we will attach the back legs to the body next.

BODY

Make one. Place the back legs next to each other, insert a stitch marker into the 1st st and the 11th st – on either side of the leg.

Helpful hint: we are working in the round.

Round 1

Using colour (PRINCE PINK), join into the 11th marked st on one of the back legs.

Helpful hint: you can remove the stitch markers each time you work into the marked stitch and work in your starting tail whilst working this round.  You can also leave the stitch markers in if it is easier for you to count the stitches.

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same sp, sc into next 9 sts (across the front of the first back leg), ch 5, sc into the 1st marked st on the second back leg, sc into next 19 sts (across front and back of the second back leg), ch 5, sc into the 1st marked st on the first back leg, sc into remaining 9 sts on the first back leg, place st marker in last st and continue to work in the round (10 ch, 40 sc).

Helpful hint: move the stitch marker (or use a running marker) and place in the last stitch of each round; this will help keep your stitch count correct and help with round counting.

Round 2

Sc into next 10 sts (front of first back leg), sc into next 5 ch, sc into next 20 sts (all around the second back leg), sc into next 5 ch, sc into next 10 sts (back of first back leg) (50 sc).

Rounds 3 – 9

Sc into next 50 sts (50 sc).

Round 10 – BLO

Sc into BLO of next 50 sts (50 BLO sc).

Rounds 11 – 14

Sc into next 50 sts (50 sc).

Round 15 – colour change at end of round.

Sc into next 50 sts, (colour change to SUGAR PURPLE) by finishing off the last st with the new colour (50 sc). Cut (PRINCE PINK) leaving a 15 cm tail.

Helpful hint: work in the (PRINCE PINK)l whilst doing the next round.

Round 16

Using colour (SUGAR PURPLE) sc into next 50 sts (50 sc).

Helpful hint: work in the (SUGAR PURPLE) starting tail whilst doing the next round.

Round 17 – BLO

Sc into BLO next 50 sts (50 BLO sc).

Helpful hint: place a stitch marker into the loop on your hook so that your work does not unravel while we do this next section.

Helpful hint: before we continue to make the body, we need to close the opening between the legs.  Using colour (PRINCE PINK), cut a 20 cm strand and using a sewing needle, whip stitch the opening closed.  Weave in ends.

Helpful hint: stuff the top of the legs and the bottom of the body until firm, be careful not to overstuff.

Round 18

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 8 sts* rep *.* 4 more times (45 sc).

Round 19

Sc into next 45 sts (45 sc).

Round 20

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 7 sts* rep *.* 4 more times (40 sc).

Rounds 21 – 23

Sc into next 40 sts (40 sc).

Round 24

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 6 sts* rep *.* 4 more times (35 sc).

Rounds 25 – 30

Sc into next 35 sts (35 sc).

Round 31

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 5 sts* rep *.* 4 more times (30 sc).

Helpful hint: stuff the top of the body until firm, be careful not to overstuff.

Round 32 – BLO

Sc into BLO next 30 sts (30 BLO sc).

Round 33 – change colour at end of round

Sc into next 30 sts, (colour change to GREY) by finishing off the last st with the new colour (30 sc).  Cut (SUGAR PURPLE) leaving a 15 cm tail.

Round 34

Helpful hint: make this round slightly loose or go up half a hook size if your tension is very tight, so that you do not struggle to make round 35.

Using colour (GREY), ss into next 30 sts (30 ss).

Helpful hint: work in the (PRINCE PINK) tail whilst doing the next round.

Round 35 – working into round 33 and centre of slip stitches from round 34.

Helpful hint: make the single crochet stitches for this round into the middle of the slip stitch from the previous round AND into the single crochet stitches from round 33.

Sc into next 30 sts (30 sc).

Helpful hint: work in the (GREY) tail whilst doing the next round.

Round 36 – attaching the front legs

Helpful hint: start each arm in the in the same stitch where you placed the sm earlier in the pattern.

Helpful hint: I have done this round with step by step instructions and photos.  You want the toes facing towards you.

Place the first front leg (left arm sm in 9th st) on the left side of the body. Sc into next 12 sts from the last round of the front leg. Sc into next 15 sts (across front of body).  Place the second front leg (right arm sm in 3rd st) on the right side of the body.  Sc into next 12 sts from the last round of the front leg.  Sc into next 15 sts (across back of body) (54 sc).

Helpful hint: check that the front legs lie symmetrical.  If they do not, you can redo round 36 by moving the front legs a couple of stitches, but make sure the front legs are still 15 stitches apart.

Round 37

Sc into next 54 sts (54 sc).

Helpful hint: you can continue to stuff the body and top of the front legs as you go along – you want it nice and firm, but not overstuffed – if the filling is visible between your stitches, you have added too much.  If you struggle to get the stuffing into the front legs, use the back of your hook or a pencil – works like a charm.

Round 38

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 7 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (48 sc).

Round 39

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 6 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (42 sc).

Round 40

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 5 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (36 sc).

Round 41

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 4 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (30 sc).

Round 42

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 3 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (24 sc).

Rounds 43 – 44

Sc into next 24 sts (24 sc).

At the end of round 44, cut yarn leaving a 70 cm tail, nj into 2nd st.

Helpful hint: we will add a bit more stuffing to the body before we attach it to the head.

Helpful hint: if you have little holes under the arms you can sew a few stitches to close the holes.

TOP

Using colour (SUGAR PURPLE), join into 3rd FLO from round 32 of the body with a slip stitch.

Round 1 – FLO

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same sp, sk next two FLO sts, [7 dc shell] into next FLO st, sk next 2 FLO sts, sc into next FLO st, sk next 2 FLO, [7 dc shell] into next FLO st, sk next 2 FLO sts, sc into next FLO st (3 sc, 2 x 7 dc shells), cut yarn leaving a 20 cm tail.

 

FINISHING THE TOP

Using the tail end whip stitch the top of each shell to the body. Weave in end.

 

BALLET SHOES

Make two.  Using colour (PRINCE PINK), make a magic circle.

Helpful hint: we are working in the round.

Round 1

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc 8 into mc, place st marker in 8th sc and continue to work in the round (8 sc).

Helpful hint: move the stitch marker (or use a running marker) and place in the last stitch of each round; this will help keep your stitch count correct and help with round counting.  Because we are working quite tightly in the round, I weave my starting tail in whilst working round 2.

Round 2

*Sc 2 into next st* rep *.* 7 more times (16 sc).

Round 3

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next st* rep *.* 7 more times (24 sc).

Round 4

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 2 sts* rep *.* 7 more times (32 sc).

Round 5

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 3 sts* rep *.* 7 more times (40 sc).

Round 6

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 4 sts* rep *.* 7 more times (48 sc).

Round 7 – BLO

*Sc 2 into BLO of next st, sc into BLO of next 23 sts* rep *.* 1 more time (50 BLO sc).

Rounds 8 – 14

Sc into next 50 sts (50 sc).

Round 15

Ss into next 50 sts (50 ss), ss into 1st st, ch 65 (or until you can wrap the chains around the leg when the shoe is on the foot).  Cut yarn leaving a 70 cm tail.

Helpful hint: we will use the tail to attach the ballet shoes to the foot and leg next.

 

ATTACHING THE SHOES TO THE BACK LEGS

Place the shoe onto the foot with the strap on the backside of the foot.  Wrap the strap around the back leg and pin the end of the strap to where the strap and shoe meet.  Using the tail end from the strap, whip stitch round 13 (behind the round of slip stitches) of the shoe to the foot, then sew the strap to the back leg.  Cut yarn and weave in end. Repeat to attach second shoe to other foot.

HEART

Make one. Using colour (SUGAR PLUM), make a magic circle.

Helpful hint: we are working in the round.

Round 1

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc 12 into mc, ss into 1st sc (12 sc).

Round 2

Ch 3, dc into same sp, dc 3 into next st, hdc into next st, sc into next 2 sts, hdc into next st (bottom of heart), sc into next 2 sts, hdc into next st, dc 3 into next st, dc into next st, ch 3, ss into same st, ss into next st (2 ch 3, 4 sc, 3 hdc, 8 dc).  Cut yarn leaving a 35 cm tail.

 

ATTACHING THE HEART TO THE BODY

Using the tail end from the heart, whip stitch the heart to the body – I add mine to the back of the body, but you can add it wherever you want to.  Weave in end.

 

ATTACHING THE TAIL

Insert your hook into the middle stitch of row 6 (counting from the bottom/area between the legs). Using colour (SILVER) yarn cut 9 pieces approximately 20 cm long, fold in half and insert your hook into the middle stitch of round 6 (counting from the bottom/area between the legs), weave one side of the yarn through. If you struggle to insert all 9 strands at once, you can divide them in two and then insert the 1st half in the stitch indicated in the instruction above, and the 2nd half in the stitch directly below. Divide the yarn into 3 parts and make a short plait (braid), then using a short piece of yarn the same colour making a tight knot at the end of the braid. Cut ends the same length.

 

ADDING THE BEND TO TOP OF THE BACK LEGS

Using colour (PRINCE PINK), cut a 30 cm strand.  Use a sewing needle to make tight running stitches back and forth between rounds 46 (top of leg) and round 1 (of body) to create the bend at the top of the back leg, so that the doll can sit.  Weave in ends.

Repeat on the other side.

 

ADDING THE ELBOWS TO THE FRONT LEGS

Using colour (GREY), cut a 30 cm strand.  Use a sewing needle to make tight running stitches back and forth between rounds 27 and 28 to create the elbow, so that the front leg can bend.  Weave in ends.   Repeat on the other side.

 

BALLET TUTU – bottom layer

Make one.  Using colour (PRINCE PINK), leave a 60 cm starting tail, chain 50 and slip stitch into the 1st chain to make a circle.

Helpful hint: we are working in rounds.

Round 1

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same ch, sc into next 49 chs, ss into 1st st (50 sc).

Rounds 2 – 3

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same sp, sc into next 49 sts, ss into 1st st (50 sc).

Round 4

Ch 2 (counts as 1st hdc st), hdc into same st, hdc 2 into next 49 sts, ss into 1st st (100 hdc).

Round 5

Ch 2 (counts as 1st dc st), dc into same st, dc 2 into next 99 sts, ss into 1st st (200 dc).

Round 6

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), hdc into same st, hdc into next 199 sts, ss into 1st st (200 hdc), cut yarn and weave in tail end.

Helpful hint: remember that you will use your starting tail to attach the tutu to the body later in the pattern.

 

BALLET TUTU – top layer

Make one.  Using colour (SUGAR PURPLE), leave a 60 cm starting tail, chain 50 and slip stitch into the 1st chain to make a circle.

Helpful hint: we are working in rounds.

Round 1

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same ch, sc into next 49 chs, ss into 1st st (50 sc).

Rounds 2 – 6

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same sp, sc into next 49 sts, ss into 1st st (50 sc).

Round 7

Ch 2 (counts as 1st dc st), dc into same st, dc 2 into next 49 sts, ss into 1st st (100 dc).

Round 8

Ch 2 (counts as 1st dc st), dc into same st, dc 2 into next 99 sts, ss into 1st st (200 dc).

Round 9

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), hdc into same st, hdc into next 199 sts, ss into 1st st (200 hdc), cut yarn and weave in tail end.

Helpful hint: remember that you will use your starting tail to attach the tutu to the body later in the pattern.

 

ATTACHING THE TUTU TO THE BODY – bottom layer

Using the starting tail of the skirt, whip stitch the skirt to the body through the chain loops from round 1 of the skirt and the FLO from round 10 of the body.  You can use pins to hold the skirt in place. I place the side of the skirt to the side of the body.  There are 50 FLO’s and 50 chs to use. Cut yarn and weave in end.

ATTACHING THE TUTU TO THE BODY – top layer

Using the starting tail of the skirt, whip stitch the skirt to the body through the chain loops from round 1 of the skirt and the FLO from round 17 of the body.  You can use pins to hold the skirt in place.   I place the side of the skirt to the side of the body.  There are 50 FLO’s and 50 chs to use. Cut yarn and weave in end.

 

LEAF GARLAND

Make one.  Using colour (FOREST GREEN), leaving a 15 cm starting tail,

*ch 9, ss into 6th ch from hook* rep *.* 15 more times, ch 3, cut yarn, leaving a 15 cm tail.  Tie the two tail ends together.

Helpful hint: we will use the tail to attach the leaf garland to the head.

 

ERICA FLOWER

Make six.  Using colour (PRINCE PINK), loosely chain 7.

Row 1

Dc 2 into 3rd ch from hook, ch 3 ss into same ch, *[ss, ch3, dc 2, ch 3, ss] into next ch* rep *.* 3 more times (10 ch 3, 10 dc), cut yarn leaving a 15 cm tail.

Helpful hint: we will use the tail to attach the flower to the head later in the pattern.

Roll the petals closely together and use the starting tail to stitch the chains together so that the petals are held together.

ATTACHING LEAF GARLAND

Pin the garland to the top of the head, placing the tied end at the back of the head.  Make sure that two of the leaves are centred between the eyes, as we are going to place a flower in the centre of the garland.  The garland will be an oval shape.  Place a pin in the centre, then  skipping two leaves place a pin in the next leaf, repeat all the way around. Leaving the pins in place and using the tail ends sew the garland in place.  Weave in ends.

 

ATTACHING THE FLOWERS TO THE GARLAND

Remove the pin and place the 1st flower in the middle of the centre two leaves. Stitch the flower in place.  Weave in ends.  Repeat with the other five flowers.

 

ATTACHING THE HEAD TO THE TOP OF THE BODY

Add more stuffing to the body if you think it needs it.  Using a 2.5 mm double sided knitting needle (if you have one – it is not necessary, but it helps with the correct placement of the head). Insert the needle between rounds 46 and 47, through the top of the middle of the head, through the head and out of the bottom of the same rounds and into the body via the open neck, with the front of the head facing the front. You can pin the head into place.

Helpful hint: remove the double-sided knitting needle before you start sewing the head to the body.

Using the tail end from the body, whip stitch the head onto the body.  You can add more stuffing before you finish attaching the head if you think your doll needs it. I go around twice to make sure the head is well attached. Weave in end.

 

TAH-DAH – YOUR BEAUTIFUL ERICA ELEPHANT IS DONE

BIRTH CERTIFICATE

Now you have made your beautiful Maddy Doll for that special someone, you can print out her very own unique Birth Certificate.  I have made one with the pattern’s details and one blank (so you can give your doll her own name), and then there is space to add your name, the name of the recipient as well as the country and date of “birth” for the doll.

Click the link to download her birth certificate

MD Erica Elephant BIRTH CERTIFICATE

PATTERN SUPPORT

TEST TEAM

  • A big thank you to my amazing, patient test team – I could not do this without your help, encouragement, and hours of challenging work – you all ROCK!
  • My pattern uses US terminology.
  • Always read the pattern before you start crocheting to familiarise yourself with it.

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THANK YOU

Thank you for your support and I hope that you enjoy making Begonia Bear.

Hugs xxx

Melanie

COPYRIGHT © 2023

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