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That 70’s Tote Bag

That 70’s Tote Bag

That 70’s Crochet Along – Free Crochet Pattern

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WHAT YOU WILL CROCHET

A cute 70’s themed tote bag sporting solid granny squares but with a difference.

FINISHED SIZE

One size – approximately 40 x 40 cm (16 x 16 inches) excluding straps.

CROCHET SKILL

Easy – basic crochet stitches are used in this design.  The pattern has helpful hints along the way which are highlighted.

MATERIALS & YARN REQUIREMENTS

  • Vinnis Colours – DK Nikkim 100% cotton (50 grams/119 metres)
    • 100 grams Autum Mix, 60 grams Mahogany, 60 grams Brick Red, 50 grams Burnt Orange
  • 3.5 mm hook
  • Sewing needle
  • Scissors

HELPFUL TIPS & PATTERN NOTES

  • My pattern uses US terminology.
  • Always read through the pattern before you start to familiarise yourself with it.
  • Colours are for reference only and will vary depending on the light settings of your monitor/devices.
  • The pattern was designed in cotton but can be made in any yarn. Just remember to use the correct hook size for the yarn you have chosen.
  • If you are working in thicker or thinner yarn your finished project size may vary.
  • Tension and hook size could also influence the overall size.
  • Secure starting ends as you go along.
  • Stitch counts are at the end of each round/row, bold and in parentheses.
  • When joining new yarn (other than for a colour change), use a slip stitch.
  • And lastly, COUNT your stitches and have loads of FUN.

PATTERN SUPPORT

TEST TEAM

  • A big thank you to my amazing, patient test team – I could not do this without your help, encouragement, and hours of challenging work – you guys’ ROCK!

PURCHASE THE PDF PATTERN

This pattern is part of That 70’s CAL and you can purchase all 6 patterns for $10.50.

  • Click HERE to purchase from my Ravelry Store

ABBREVIATIONS

TERM ABBREVIATION STITCH INSTRUCTIONS
Back loop only BLO Insert hook into the back loop of indicated stitch only.  When making this stitch turn your work slightly and work through the “third loop” as well, this will ensure that your stitch work does not pull open.  This does not apply when working into single crochet stitches.
Chain ch Yarn over, pull through.
Double crochet dc Yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Half double crochet hdc Yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through remaining three loops on hook.
Magic circle mc Link to how I make a magic circle.
Needle join nj When you have finished your last stitch, do not join, instead cut the yarn, and pull it through the last stitch.  Using a needle, insert into both loops of the second stitch of the same round/row.  If you started with a standing stitch, then insert into the top of the standing stitch.  Go back into the back loop only of the last stitch of the round/row, and gently tighten the join, and it will form a “loop” on top of the stitch and look just like a regular stitch.  Link to how I make a needle join
Single crochet sc Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Skip sk Skip a stitch or space.
Slip stitch ss Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull through both the stitch and loop on hook.
Single crochet three together sc3tog Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, insert hook into next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, insert hook into next st, yarn over, pull through remaining four loops.

 

PATTERN

PATTERN NOTE:

When I end with one colour yarn and start with another colour yarn, I will finish off the round with the following instruction:

  • “ss into 1st st (st count), cut yarn and weave in ends.”
  • OR you can finish with a needle join.

If you do not know how to make a needle join, please refer to the abbreviations which will be found in the pattern preamble.

When I start a new round, I use a standing stitch however if you do not know how to make standing stitches you can replace the starting stitch with chains:

  • Chain 1 replaces a single crochet
  • Chain 3 replaces a double crochet

SOLID GRANNY SQUARE

Make 13 squares in total.  Make 3 squares using colour (BURNT ORANGE), 5 squares using colour (BRICK RED) and 5 squares using colour (MAHOGANY).  Start by making a magic circle.

Helpful hint: the chain three in these rounds counts as the first double crochet stitch in each repeat.

Round 1

[Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc2, ch 2] into mc,  *[dc 3, ch 2]*, rep *.* 2 more times, ss into top of 3rd starting ch (4 ch 2, 12 dc).

Round 2

Helpful hint: make the slip stitches at the beginning of the next rounds loosely as you will need to work into them when you make your next round.  The reason we are making slip stitches is to get to the chain corner to start the new round, that way there is not obvious join.

Helpful hint: make sure you make the first double crochet stitch into the very first stitch from the previous round – it is often referred to as a “hidden’ stitch, so pull the corner stitches over so that you can get into that first stitch.

Ss into next st, ss into ch 2 corner sp, [ch 3, dc 2, ch 2, dc 3] into ch 2, dc into next st, sk next st, ch 1, dc into next st, *[dc 3, ch 2, dc 3] into ch 2, dc into next st, sk next st, ch 1, dc into next st*, rep *.* 2 more times, ss into top of 3rd starting ch (4 ch 1, 4 ch 2, 32 dc).

Round 3

Ss into next st, ss into ch 2 corner sp, [ch 3, dc, ch 2, dc 2] into ch 2, dc into next 4 sts, sk next st, ch 1, dc into next 4 sts, *[dc 2, ch 2, dc 2] into ch 2, dc into next 4 sts, sk next st, ch 1, dc into next 4 sts*, rep *.* 2 more times, ss into top of 3rd starting ch (4 ch 1, 4 ch 2, 48 dc).

Round 4

Ss into ch 2 corner sp, [ch 3, dc, ch 2, dc 2] into ch 2, dc into next 6 sts, sk next st, ch 1, dc into next 6 sts, *[dc 2, ch 2, dc 2] into ch 2, dc into next 6 sts, sk next st, ch 1, dc into next 6 sts*, rep *.* 2 more times, ss into top of 3rd starting ch (4 ch 1, 4 ch 2, 64 dc).

Round 5

Ss into ch 2 corner sp, [ch 3, dc, ch 2, dc 2] into ch 2, dc into next 8 sts, sk next st, ch 1, dc into next 8 sts, *[dc 2, ch 2, dc 2] into ch 2, dc into next 8 sts, sk next st, ch 1, dc into next 8 sts*, rep *.* 2 more times, ss into top of 3rd starting ch (4 ch 1, 4 ch 2, 80 dc), cut yarn and weave in ends.

Round 6 – colour change

Using colour (AUTUMN MIX) start in any ch 2 corner sp, *[dc 2, ch 2, dc 2] into ch 2, dc into next 10 sts, sk next st, ch 1, dc into next 10 sts*, rep *.* 3 more times, ss into 1st st (4 ch 1, 4 ch 2, 96 dc), cut yarn and weave in ends.

JOINING YOUR SQUARES

Place your squares to match my cute coloured in diagram 😊 then sew them together using the whip stitch and the same colour you used for round 6.  I used colour (AUTUM NIX).

Click here for a link to a photo tutorial and click here for a link to a YouTube video that helped me to join my squares.

BORDER

Round 1

Helpful hint: when you make the back loop only single crochet stitches in this round work into the third loop as well as the back loop, as this will anchor your stitches and stop them from pulling.  If you do not know how to find the third loop, please refer to the abbreviations which will be found in the pattern preamble.

Using colour (AUTUM MIX) join yarn in any top ch 2 corner sp, *[sc 2, ch 2, sc 2] into ch, sk next st, sc BLO next 11 sts, sc BLO into ch, sc BLO into next 12 sts, sc3tog (work sc3tog over next ch, into join, into next ch), sk next st, sc BLO into next 11 sts, sc BLO into ch, sc BLO into next 12 sts*, rep *.* 3 more times, ss into 1st st (4 ch 2, 4 sc3tog, 192 BLO sc).

Round 2

Ss into ch 2, ch 1 (does not count as a st), *[sc, ch 2, sc] into ch, sc BLO into next 25 sts, sc3tog BLO, sc BLO into next 25 sts*, rep *.* 2 more times, [sc, ch 2, sc] into ch, sc BLO next 25 sts, sc3tog BLO, sc BLO into next 25 sts, ss into 1st st (4 ch 2, 8 sc, 4 sc3tog, 200 sc BLO), cut yarn and weave in ends.

STRAP 1

Row 1

Using colour (AUTUMN MIX) join yarn in the 3rd stitch before the ch 2, dc into st, hdc into next st, sc into next st, sc into ch, sc into next st, hdc into next st, dc into next st (3 sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc), turn work.

Rows 2 – 125

Helpful hint: you can adjust the straps by making them longer or shorter by making more or less rows than I did.

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same sp, sc into next 6 sts (7 sc), turn work.

Row 126

Helpful hint: this is the last row of the strap and will be attached to the square on the opposite side of the bag.   Make the starting chain loose in this row otherwise the next stitch will pull tight.

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same sp, hdc into next st, sc into next 3 sts, hdc into next st, dc into next st (3 sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc), cut yarn leaving a 20 cm tail.

Repeat for second strap.

ATTACHING THE STRAP TO THE BAG

Helpful hint: you can attach the straps to the corner of the square on the opposite side OR to the corner of the square on the same side.

Using the tail end whip stitch the end of the strap to the corner stitches of the corresponding square, be careful not to twist the strap.  I used the FLO’s from round 126 of the strap and the FLO of the 2nd round of the border to attach the strap to the square.  Start in the 3rd stitch from the right and ending on the 3rd stitch to the left of the corner of the square.  I went around the front and the back of the strap to ensure that the straps are securely attached to the square.  Cut yarn and weave in ends.  Repeat on the other strap.

DAISY

Make as many as you like.  I made two.  Using colour (BRICK RED) make a magic circle.

Round 1

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), hdc 16 into mc, ss into 1st st (16 hdc).

Round 2 – petals

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same sp, ch 8, sc into 2nd ch from hook,(working down the side of the chs)  sc into next 7 chs, ss into same st you made the 1st sc into, sc into next st, *sc into next st, ch 8, sc into 2nd ch from hook, sc into next 7 chs, ss into same st you made the 1st sc into, sc into next st*, rep *.* 6 more times, ss into 1st st (8 ss, 8 x 8 ch, 12 sc, 72 sc), cut yarn and weave in ends.

Round 3 – colour change

Using colour (BURNT ORANGE) start in any sc made into round 1 (between the petals), *sc into sc, (working up the side of the petal),

hdc into next 6 chs, hdc 2 into next ch, dc 5 into (turning/top) ch, (working down the other side of the petal), hdc 2 into next st, hdc into next 6 sts*, rep *.* 7 more times, ss into 1st st (8 sc, 128 hdc, 40 dc), cut yarn leaving a 60 cm tail which we will use to attach the petal to the tote bag.

ATTACHING THE DAISY TO THE BAG

Helpful hint: I liked the idea of the daisies being attached halfway down the petals, but you can sew them onto the bag any way you like 😊

Place the two (or as many as you like) daisies to the bag, using the tail end sew the daisy onto the bag.  Weave in ends.

THANK YOU

Thank you for your support and I hope that you enjoy making your That 70’s Tote Bag.

Hugs xxx

Melanie

PURCHASE THE PDF PATTERN

This pattern is part of That 70’s CAL and you can purchase all 6 patterns for $10.50.

  • Click HERE to purchase from my Ravelry Store

COPYRIGHT © 2022

  • The pattern or any portion of it may not be reproduced or used in any manner whatsoever without the express written permission of the designer.
  • The design, pattern, and all images are the property of M and M Crochet Designs.
  • The purchaser of this pattern may use it for personal use and/or charity.
  • Sales of the finished items (made by you and not commercial in quantity or production) are encouraged, and credit given to the designer would be most appreciated.

Please respect the amount of time, effort and love that goes into each of my designs, and even if they are for free, please send your friends the link and do not send them the pattern.

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