That 70’s Granny Square Crop Top

That 70’s Crochet Along – Free Crochet Pattern

WHAT YOU WILL CROCHET

A cute 70’s themed crop top sporting not so traditional granny squares.

FINISHED SIZE

One size: 76 cm (30 inches) in diameter (around chest), 36 cm (14 inches) from shoulder to bottom rib, 58 cm (23 inches) from shoulder to cuff.  I used a light worsted DK yarn, so if you use a thicker yarn your finished measurements will be larger than mine.  The top was designed for my daughter who wears an adult XS.  Each square is 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4 inches).

CROCHET SKILL

Easy – basic crochet stitches are used in this design.  The pattern has helpful hints along the way which are highlighted.

MATERIALS & YARN REQUIREMENTS

• Vinnis Colours – DK Nikkim 100% cotton (50 grams/119 metres)
  • 200 grams Black, 50 grams Natural, 50 grams Baby Yellow, 50 grams Sunshine Yellow, 50 grams Orange, 50 grams Burnt Orange, 50 grams Brick Red, 50 grams Tomato
• 3.5 mm hook
• 4.5 mm hook (joining of squares)
• 4 x 3 cm (1.5 inch) wooden buttons
• Sewing needle
• Scissors

Suggested Colour Placement

Round 1 of each square	Natural, Baby Yellow or Sunshine Yellow
Round 2 of each square	Orange or Burnt Orange
Round 3 of each square	Brick Red or Tomato
Round 4 of each square	Black
Joining of each square	Black
Neck edging, rib on top and front panel edging	Black
Sleeves	Black, Brick Red, Tomato, Burnt Orange, Orange, Sunshine Yellow, Baby Yellow, Natural, Black

HELPFUL TIPS & PATTERN NOTES

• My pattern uses US terminology.
• Always read through the pattern before you start to familiarise yourself with it.
• Colours are for reference only and will vary depending on the light settings of your monitor/devices.
• The pattern was designed in cotton but can be made in any yarn. Just remember to use the correct hook size for the yarn you have chosen.
• If you are working in thicker or thinner yarn your finished project size may vary.
• Tension and hook size could also influence the overall size.
• Secure starting ends as you go along.
• Stitch counts are at the end of each round/row, bold and in parentheses.
• When joining new yarn (other than for a colour change), use a slip stitch.
• And lastly, COUNT your stitches and have loads of FUN.

PATTERN SUPPORT

• Full pattern support is available from the M and M Crochet Designs – patterns and CALs FB group.
• Please post a question in the group if you need help and one of the fabulous M&M’s will happily assist you.
• For questions relating to permission or usage email mandmcrochetdesigns@gmail.com

TEST TEAM

• A big thank you to my amazing, patient test team – I could not do this without your help, encouragement, and hours of challenging work – you guys’ ROCK!

PURCHASE THE PDF PATTERN

This pattern is part of That 70’s CAL and you can purchase all 6 patterns for $10.50.

• Click HERE to purchase from my Ravelry Store

ABBREVIATIONS

TERM	ABBREVIATION	STITCH INSTRUCTIONS
Chain	ch	Yarn over, pull through.
Double crochet	dc	Yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Half double crochet	hdc	Yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through remaining three loops on hook.
Magic circle	mc	Link to how I make a magic circle.
Needle join	nj	When you have finished your last stitch, do not join, instead cut the yarn, and pull it through the last stitch.  Using a needle, insert into both loops of the second stitch of the same round/row.  If you have started with a standing stitch, you can insert into the top of the standing stitch.  Go back into the back loop only of the last stitch of the round/row, and gently tighten the join, and it will form a “loop” on top of the stitch and look just like a regular stitch.  Link to how I make a needle join
Repeat	rep	Repeat the stitches between *.* the required number of times.  Or **.** the required number of times.
Single crochet	sc	Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
Single crochet two together	sc2tog	Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, insert hook into next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through remaining three loops on hook.
Skip	sk	Skip a stitch or space.
Slip stitch	ss	Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull through both the stitch and loop on hook.
Starting three double crochet cluster	3dc cl	Chain two (counts as first part of the stitch), yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over pull through remaining four loops on hook.
Starting two double crochet cluster	2dc cl	Chain two (counts as first part of the stitch), yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two loops, yarn over pull through remaining three loops on hook.

 

Three double crochet cluster	3dc cl	Yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over pull through remaining four loops on hook.
Two double crochet cluster	2dc cl	Yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining three loops on hook.

PATTERN

SQUARES

Make twenty-six squares.  Using your choice of yarn colour make a magic circle.

Helpful hint:  refer to the colour placement in the pattern preamble for colour suggestions.

Helpful hint: I finish my rounds off using a needle join technique, if you are not sure how to make one you can find a brief explanation in the abbreviations section found in the preamble.

Round 1

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), *2 dc cl, ch 1 into mc*, rep *.* 11 more times, ss into 1^st st (12 ch 1, 12 x 2 dc cl), cut yarn, end with a nj and weave in ends.

Round 2 – new colour

Using new colour start in any ch 1 sp, **[2 dc cl, ch 2, 2 dc cl,] into same ch, *ch 1, sk next st, 2 dc cl into next ch*, rep *.* 1 more time, ch 1, sk next st**, rep **.** 3 more times, ss into 1^st st (12 ch 1, 4 ch 2, 16 x  2 dc cl), cut yarn, end with a nj and weave in ends.

Round 3 – new colour

Using new colour start in any ch 2 sp, **[3 dc cl, ch 2, 3 dc cl] into same ch, *ch 1, sk next st, 3 dc cl into next ch*,  rep *.* 2 more times, ch 1, sk next st**, rep **.** 3 more times, ss into 1^st st (16 ch 1, 4 ch 2, 20 x 3 dc cl), cut yarn, end with a nj and weave in ends.

Round 4 – new colour

Using new colour start in any ch 2 sp,**[dc 3, ch 2, dc 3] into same ch, *sk next st, dc 3 into next ch sp*, rep *.* 3 more times, sk next st**, rep **.** 3 more times, ss into 1 sts (4 ch 2, 72 dc), cut yarn, end with a nj and weave in ends.

PATTERN NOTE

It is a good idea to block your little squares – this will make joining them much easier and the top will hang better once put together.

JOINING THE SQUARES

Click here for the link to the tutorial I used to join my squares.  In no particular order place 12 squares in 3 rows of 4, (back of top) then add 1 square to the outside row on each side (shoulder/neck), using the zipper method join the squares together as indicated.

Helpful hint: you will find a brief explanation of how to do the zipper join and a link to a YouTube video that I used to teach myself the technique.

Place 6 squares in 3 rows of 2 (right and left front panel), using the zipper method join the squares together as indicated.

Using the zipper or slip stitch method join the front panels to either side of the shoulder squares as indicated.

JOING THE SIDES

Place a stitch marker into the second square from the bottom on both sides of the front and both sides of the back.  You will place the stitch marker into the 1^st stitch on the 5^th set of 3 dc’s.

Join the sides by stitching the squares together from the bottom until the stitch before the stitch with the stitch marker.  Cut yarn and weave in ends.

SLEEVES

Make two.  Using your choice of yarn colour (I used BLACK), chain 34 and slip stitch into the 1^st chain to make a circle.

Helpful hint: we are working in rounds.

Helpful hint: the chain 1 at the beginning of each round does not count as a stitch, but it is important to make the chain 1, and you will see why as we go along – it makes a nice straight seam – make the chain 1 loose otherwise the seam will “pull” up on this side.

Round 1

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same ch, dc into next 33 chs, ss into 1^st st (34 dc).

Rounds 2 – 5

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), fpdc around same st, bpdc around next st, *fpdc around next st, bpdc around next st*, rep *.* 16 more times, ss into 1^st st (17 fpdc, 17 bpdc).

Round 6

Helpful hint: the three double crochets are done into the front post double crochet from the previous round.

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc 3 into same st (should be the 1^st fpdc from previous round), sk next st, *dc 3 into next st, sk next st*, rep *.* 16 more times, ss into 1^st st (51 dc ).

Helpful hint: For the first set of three double crochet stitches, I work into the space between the 1^st and last set of three double crochet stitches from the previous round – refer to the photo below – this will hide the join and give you a “seamless finish” to your sleeve.

Rounds 7 – 10

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc 3 into sp between 2 sets of 3 dc sts, sk next 3 sts, *dc 3 into next sp, sk next 3 sts*, rep *.* 15 more times, ss into 1^st st (51 dc).  At the end of round 10 cut yarn and weave in ends.

Round 11 – colour change

Using new colour start in the space between the first and last set of 3 dc’s from previous round, *dc 3 into sp between 2 sets of 3 dc sts, sk next 3 sts*, rep *.* 16 more times, ss into 1^st st (51 dc).

Rounds 12 – 15

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc 3 into sp between 2 sets of 3 dc sts, sk next 3 sts, *dc 3 into next sp, sk next 3 sts*, rep *.* 15 more times, ss into 1^st st (51 dc).  At the end of round 15 cut yarn and weave in ends.

Round 16 – colour change

Using new colour start in the space between the first and last set of 3 dc’s from previous round, *dc 3 into sp between 2 sets of 3 dc sts, sk next 3 sts*, rep *.* 16 more times, ss into 1^st st (51 dc).

Rounds 17 – 20

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc 3 into sp between 2 sets of 3 dc sts, sk next 3 sts, *dc 3 into next sp, sk next 3 sts*, rep *.* 15 more times, ss into 1^st st (51 dc).  At the end of round 20 cut yarn and weave in ends.

Round 21 – colour change

Using new colour start in the space between the first and last set of 3 dc’s from previous round, *dc 3 into sp between 2 sets of 3 dc sts, sk next 3 sts*, rep *.* 16 more times, ss into 1^st st (51 dc).

Rounds 22 – 25

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc 3 into sp between 2 sets of 3 dc sts, sk next 3 sts, *dc 3 into next sp, sk next 3 sts*, rep *.* 15 more times, ss into 1^st st (51 dc).  At the end of round 25 cut yarn and weave in ends.

Round 26 – colour change

Using new colour start in the space between the first and last set of 3 dc’s from previous round, *dc 3 into sp between 2 sets of 3 dc sts, sk next 3 sts*, rep *.* 16 more times, ss into 1^st st (51 dc).

Rounds 27 – 30

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc 3 into sp between 2 sets of 3 dc sts, sk next 3 sts, *dc 3 into next sp, sk next 3 sts*, rep *.* 15 more times, ss into 1^st st (51 dc).  At the end of round 30 cut yarn and weave in ends.

Round 31 – colour change

Using new colour start in the space between the first and last set of 3 dc’s from previous round, *dc 3 into sp between 2 sets of 3 dc sts, sk next 3 st*s, rep *.* 16 more times, ss into 1^st st (51 dc).

Rounds 32 – 34

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc 3 into sp between 2 sets of 3 dc sts, sk next 3 sts, *dc 3 into next sp*, rep *.* 15 more times, ss into 1^st st (51 dc).

Round 35 – increase round

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc 3 into sp between 2 sets of 3 dc sts, sk next 3 sts, *dc 3 into next sp, sk next 3 sts*, rep *.* 14 more times, [dc 3, ch 1, dc 3] into the next sp, sk next 3 sts, ss into 1^st st (ch 1, 54 dc), cut yarn and weave in ends.

Round 36 – colour change

Using new colour start in the space between the first and last set of 3 dc’s from previous round, *dc 3 into sp between 2 sets of 3 dc sts, sk next 3 sts*, rep *.* 16 more times, dc 3 into ch 1, ss into 1^st st (54 dc).

Rounds 37 – 39

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc 3 into sp between 2 sets of 3 dc sts, sk next 3 sts, *dc 3 into next sp, sk next 3 sts*, rep *.* 16 more times, ss into 1^st st (54 dc).

Round 40 – increase round

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc 3 into sp between 2 sets of 3 dc sts, sk next 3 sts, *dc 3 into next sp, sk next 3 sts*, rep *.* 17 more times, [dc 3, ch 1, dc 3] into the next sp, sk next 3 sts, ss into 1^st st (ch 1, 57 dc), cut yarn and weave in ends.

Round 41 – colour change

Using new colour  start in the space between the first and last set of 3 dc’s from previous round, *dc 3 into sp between 2 sets of 3 dc sts, sk next 3 sts*, rep *.* 17  more times, dc 3 into ch 1, ss into 1^st st (57 dc).

Round 42 – increase round

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc 3 into sp between 2 sets of 3 dc sts, sk next 3 sts, *dc 3 into next sp, rep *.* 17 more times, sk next 3 sts, [dc 3, ch 1, dc 3] into the next sp, ss into 1^st st (ch 1 , 60 dc).

Round 43

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc 3 into sp between 2 sets of 3 dc sts, sk next 3 sts, *dc 3 into next sp, sk next 3 sts*, rep *.* 18 more times, dc 3 into ch 1, ss into 1^st st (60 dc).

Round 44 – increase round

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc 3 into sp between 2 sets of 3 dc sts, sk next 3 sts, dc 3 into next sp, rep *.* 18 more times, sk next 3 sts, [dc 3, ch 1, dc 3] into the next sp, ss into 1^st st (ch 1, 63 dc).

Round 45

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc 3 into sp between 2 sets of 3 dc sts, sk next 3 sts, *dc 3 into next sp, sk next 3 sts*, rep *.* 18 more times, dc 3 into ch 1,  ss into 1^st st (63 dc), cut yarn and weave in ends.

Round 46 – colour change AND increase round

Using new colour start in the space between the first and last set of 3 dc’s from previous round, dc 3 into sp between 2 sets of 3 dc sts, sk next 3 sts, *dc 3 into next sp, sk next 3 sts*, rep *.* 18 more times, sk next 3 sts, [dc 3, ch 1, dc 3] into the next sp, ss into 1^st st (ch 1, 66 dc).

Round 47

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc 3 into sp between 2 sets of 3 dc sts, sk next 3 sts, *dc 3 into next sp, sk next 3 sts*, rep *.* 19 more times, dc 3 into ch 1,  ss into 1^st st (66 dc).  Cut yarn leaving a 55 cm tail which we will use to attach the sleeves to the body next.

Helpful hint: if you want to lengthen the sleeves, you can repeat round 47 until the sleeve is the right length.

ATTACHING THE SLEEVES

Place the sleeve into the sleeve opening and stitch the sleeve to the top.  Cut yarn and weave in ends.  Repeat with second sleeve.

ADDING THE RIB

Round 1

With right-side facing, start in the ch 2 corner sp of the square on the bottom left side of the top,

*dc into ch 1, dc into next 18 sts, dc into ch 1, dc 2 evenly over seam join*, rep *.* 6 more times, dc2 into ch 1, dc into next 18 sts, dc into ch 1 (175 dc), turn work.

Round 2

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), fpdc around 1^st st, *bpdc around next st, fpdc around next st*, rep *.* 86 more times (87 fpdc, 88 bpdc), turn work.

Round 3

Helpful hint: you can lengthen the top by repeating round 3 as many times as needed.

Ch 1 ( does not count as a st), fpdc around 1^st st, *bpdc around next st, fpdc around next st*, rep *.* 86 more times (87 fpdc, 88 bpdc), turn work.

Round 4

Ch 1 ( does not count as a st), fpdc around 1^st st, *bpdc around next st, fpdc around next st*, rep *.* 86 more times (87 fpdc, 88 bpdc), cut yarn and weave in ends.

FINISHING THE NECK

Round 1

With right-side facing, start at the bottom of the right rib, ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same sp, sc 6 evenly over rib, sc into ch 1, sc into next 18 sts, hdc into next ch 1, hdc into seam join, hdc into next ch 1, sc into next 18 sts, hdc into next ch 1, hdc into seam join, hdc into next ch 1, sc into next 18 sts, [sc, ch 1, sc] into next ch 1, sc into next 18 sts, hdc into next ch 1, sc3tog (make the sc3tog by first going into seam, then into the next ch 1, then into seam), hdc into next ch 1, sc into next 18 sts, hdc into next ch 1, sc3tog (make the sc3tog by first going into seam, then into the next ch 1, then into seam), hdc into next ch 1, sc into next 18 sts, hdc into next ch 1, hdc into seam join, hdc into next ch 1, sc into next 18 sts, hdc into next ch 1, sc3tog (make the sc3tog by first going into seam, then into the next ch 1, then into seam), hdc into next ch 1, sc into next 18 sts, hdc into next ch 1, sc3tog (make the sc3tog by first going into seam, then into the next ch 1, then into seam), hdc into next ch 1 sp, sc into next 18 sts, hdc into next ch 1 sp, sc3tog, sc into next 18 sts, [sc, ch 1, sc], sc into next 18 sts, hdc into next ch 1, hdc into seam join, hdc into next ch 1, sc into next 18 sts, hdc into next ch 1, hdc into seam join, hdc into next ch 1, sc into next 18 sts, sc into ch 1, sc 6 sts evenly over rib, (253 sc, 24 hdc, 4 x sc3tog), do not cut the yarn, turn work.

ADDING THE BAND TO THE LEFT PANEL FOR ATTACHING BUTTONS

Helpful hint: we are just working up to the corner and will then turn and continue back down the front of the top creating the bands for the buttons.

Row 1

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same sp, sc into next 68 sts, sc into ch 1 (70 sc), turn work.

Rows 2 – 7

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same sp, sc into next 69 sts (70 sc), turn work.  At the end of row 7 cut yarn leaving a 70 cm tail.

Helpful hint: we will use the tail to sew on the buttons once we have finished with the next buttonhole band.

ADDING THE BAND TO THE RIGH PANEL FOR BUTTONHOLES

Row 1

With wrong side of work facing begin in the ch 1 sp of the corner of the neck, ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same sp, sc into next 69 sts (70 sc), turn work.

Rows 2 – 3

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same sp, sc into next 69 sts (70 sc), turn work.

Row 4 – buttonhole placement

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, sk next 4 sts, ch 4, sc into next 16 sts, sk next 4 sts, ch 4, sc into next 16 sts, sk next 4 sts, ch 4, sc into next 16 sts, sk next 4 sts, ch 4, sc into next 3 sts (4 x ch 4, 54 sc).

Row 5

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, sc 4 into ch 4, sc into next 16 sts, sc 4 into ch 4, sc into next 16 sts, sc 4 into ch 4, sc into next 16 sts, sc 4 into ch 4, sc into next 3 sts (70 sc).

Rows 6 – 7

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same sp, sc into next 69 sts (70 sc), turn work.  At the end of row 7 cut yarn and weave in ends.

ADDING BUTTONS

I used 4 wooden buttons approximately 3 cm (1 ½ inches) in diameter.  Sew them onto the panel without the buttonholes.

IMPORTANT PATTERN NOTE:

Gently block your Granny Square Crop Top and enjoy wearing it.

THANK YOU

Thank you for your support and I hope that you enjoy making your That 70’s Granny Square Crop Top.

Hugs xxx

Melanie

PURCHASE THE PDF PATTERN

This pattern is part of That 70’s CAL and you can purchase all 6 patterns for $10.50.

• Click HERE to purchase from my Ravelry Store

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