Free Amigurumi Crochet Pattern

The Melly Teddy Ragdoll Sunbeam Fairy is one of four fairies – she is the fourth fairy.  Her older sisters are the Harvest Fairy, the Snowfall Fairy and the Blossom Fairy.  She was created because I think we all need a little bit of magic in our lives and my little girl is thrilled to be Sunbeam Fairy’s new mommy. A Ragdoll is a cross between a lovey blanket and a soft toy and perfect to crochet for babies and small children. 

Make a super cute Melly Teddy Ragdoll Sunbeam Fairy for that special person/s in your life. 

They are fun and easy to make and are soft and snugly, perfect for cuddling and great yarn busters. 

When I was a little girl, I had a Bunny Ragdoll that was a bottle warmer, and it literally went everywhere with me.  My dad used to call it Melly’s Teddy.  Our daughter was born in 2013 and after I learnt to cruncher in 2015 I made a sleepy bunny ragdoll for Madison.  She loved it because it was nice and squishy.  Friends saw it, liked it and told me I should write the pattern down.  I eventually took the plunge and published my first pattern for the Melly Teddy Ragdoll Sleepy Bunny in June 2019.

Followed by “Eliah Ellie”, “Rainbow Unicorn”, “Snowman Family” and “Giant Panda Bear

The “Mermaids” are the 6th member of the Melly Teddy Ragdoll Family.

Introducing Melly Teddy Ragdoll Shelly and Sandy Mermaid

For questions and sharing your progress making your

Melly Teddy Ragdoll Shelly and Sandy Mermaid:

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Let’s paint with yarn….

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WHAT YOU WILL CROCHET

  • Ragdolls have a firmly stuffed head, feet and hands, and a flat body; a cross between a soft toy and a lovey blanket – perfect for lots of cuddles.

FINISHED SIZE

  • Each ragdoll is 46 cm (18 inches) from the top of the head to the bottom of the feet.

CROCHET SKILL

  • Easy to adventurous beginner.
  • The pattern has helpful hints along the way which are highlighted in purple.

MATERIALS 

  • 3.5 mm hook
  • Stuffing
  • Small account of pink embroidery thread or yarn for the mouth
  • 2 pairs 12 mm safety eyes
  • Sewing needle
  • Scissors

YARN

Vinnis Colours – DK Nikkim 100% cotton (50 grams/119 metres)

SHELLY

  • 70g (A) Natural 
  • 10g (B) Blue Red 
  • 10g (C) Raspberry
  • 15g (D) Pink 
  • 30g (E) Ballet Pink
  • 15g (F) Purple Pink
  • 15g (G) Pale Lilac 
  • 15g (H) Lilac 
  • 15g (I) Violet
  • 80g (J) Purple Mix 

SANDY

  • 70g (A) Natural
  • 10g (B) Purple Blue 
  • 10g (C) Deep Blue 
  • 15g (D) Lavender
  • 30g (E) Baby Blue
  • 15g (F) Mint #554
  • 15g (G) Willow Green 
  • 15g (H) Sage
  • 15g (I) Sea Green 
  • 80g (J) Teal Mix #21

You are welcome to make the pattern in any yarn however depending on the yarn and your tension the size of the finished item may vary from mine.

WANT TO USE AN ALTERNATIVE YARN?

  • If you want to purchase a cotton alternative to the yarn I am using click here.
  • If you want to purchase an acrylic alternative to the yarn I am using click here.

NOTES

  • My pattern uses US terminology.
  • Always read through the pattern before you start to familiarise yourself with it.
  • When working in the round, use a stitch marker or a running stitch marker to keep track of the rounds/rows.
  • Colours are for reference only and will vary depending on the light settings of your monitor/devices.
  • Some of the photo tutorials are from other designs or will show more completed parts, so do not worry about the colour or other parts – use them as a guide to check your work looks as it should.
  • My ragdolls are designed using safety eyes, if gifting to babies and small children please remember safety first – you are welcome to embroider the eyes.
  • The pattern was designed in cotton but can be made in any yarn. Just remember to use the correct hook size for the yarn you have chosen.
  • If you are working in thicker or thinner yarn your ragdoll size may vary.
  • Tension and hook size could also influence the overall size.
  • And lastly, COUNT your stitches and have loads of FUN.

HELPFUL TIPS

  • Secure starting ends as you go along.
  • When changing colours do not finish off the final stitch; add new colour and finish off the last stitch to complete the colour change.
  • The best way to make sure that your tail is long enough to attach the piece to the ragdoll is to run the yarn close to the edge of the piece and cut the yarn 2 ½ times the length.
  • Chain stitches and slip stitches do not count as a stitch unless otherwise indicated.
  • Stitch counts are at the end of each round/row, bold and in parentheses.

ABBREVIATIONS

Melly Teddy Ragdoll Shelly and Sandy Mermaid Abbreviations

PATTERN SUPPORT

  • Full pattern support is available from the MandMCrochet FB Group.
  • Please post a question in the group if you need help and one of the lovely M&M Test Team members will assist you.
  • For questions relating to permission or usage, email mandmcrochetdesigns@gmail.com.

TEST TEAM

  • A big thank you to my amazing, patient test team at MandMCrochet FB Group – I could not do this without your help, encouragement and hours and hours of hard work. You guys ROCK!!!

“Share the art within you with the ones you love…”

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  • 73 page PDF pattern with easy to follow written instructions
  • over 150 tutorial photographs
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  • unique birth certificate
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COPYRIGHT © 2021

The pattern or any portion of it may not be reproduced or used in any manner whatsoever without the express written permission of the designer.
The design, pattern, and all images are the property of MandMCrochetDesigns.
The purchaser of this pattern may use it for personal use and/or charity.
Sales of the finished items (made by you and not commercial in quantity or production) are encouraged, and credit given to the designer would be most appreciated.

Please respect the amount of time, effort and love that goes into each of my designs, and even if they are for free, please send your friends the link and do not send them the pattern.


MERMAID PATTERN

PART 1

HEAD

Lightly stuffed and worked in the round.

Using colour (A) make a mc.

Round 1

Ch 1, sc 6 into mc, place stitch marker in 6th sc and continue to work in the round (6 sc)

Helpful hint: move the stitch marker and place in the last stitch of each row and this will help keep your stitch count correct and help with row counting, and because we are working quite tightly in the round, I weave my beginning tail in whilst working round 2.

Round 2

Sc 2 into each st (12 sc).

Helpful hint: with my patterns, I usually always start with an increase in the 1st stitch, so if your increase stitch falls in the first stitch of the increase stitch from the last row, your stitch should be correct.

Round 3

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next st* rep *.* 5 more times (18 sc)

Round 4

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 2 sts* rep *.* 5 more  times (24 sc).

Round 5

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 3 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (30 sc).

Round 6

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 4 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (36 sc).

Round 7

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 5 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (42 sc).

Round 8

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 6 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (48 sc).

Round 9

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 7 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (54 sc).

Round 10

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 8 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (60 sc).

Round 11

Sc into next 60 sts (60 sc).

Rounds 12 – 23

Repeat round 11 (60 sc).

Helpful hint: insert the safety eyes between row 18 and 19, about 12 sts apart.  If you prefer to embroider your eyes, you can do this when the head is finished.

Round 24

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 8 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (54 sc).

Round 25

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 7 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (48 sc).

Round 26

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 6 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (42 sc).

Round 27

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 5 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (36 sc).

Helpful hint: you can stuff the head now, and then just add more in before you close off after the last round, the head should be firm, but not hard, think “squishy”.

Round 28

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 4 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (30 sc).

Round 29

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 3 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (24 sc).

Round 30

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 2sts* rep *.* 5 more times (18 sc).

Round 31

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next st* rep *.* 5 more times (12 sc).

Round 32

*Inv sc2tog*, rep *.* 5 more times (6 sc) cut yarn, ss into each sc and pull tight, cut yarn and weave in ends.

Helpful hint: we will attach the head to the body in part 6.


PART 2

BODY

Not stuffed, using colour (A) yarn chain 32 and ss into the first chain to make a circle.

Helpful hint: work into the outside loop of the chain for this round, we will use the inside loop of the chain later when we are finished with the body.

Helpful hint: the chain 1 at the beginning of each row does not count as a stitch, but it is important to make the chain 1, and you will see why as we go along – it makes a nice straight seam – make the chain 1 loose otherwise the seam will “pull” up on this side.

Round 1

Ch 1, dc into same ch, dc 14, 3 dc into next ch, dc 15, 3 dc into next ch, ss into 1st dc (36 dc).

Round 2

Ch 1, dc into same st, dc 16, 2 dc into next st, dc 17, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (38 dc).

Round 3

Ch 1, dc into same st, dc 17, 2 dc into next st, dc 18, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (40 dc).

Round 4

Ch 1, dc into same st, dc 18, 2 dc into next st, dc 19, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (42 dc).

Round 5

Ch 1, dc into same st, dc 19, 2 dc into next st, dc 20, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (44 dc).

Round 6

Ch 1, dc into same st, dc 20, 2 dc into next st, dc 21, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (46 dc).

Round 7

Ch 1, dc into same st, dc 21, 2 dc into next st, dc 22, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (48 dc), cut yarn and weave in ends.

NECK

Using colour (A) join yarn to round 1 of the body with a slip stitch.

Helpful hint: join yarn at one side of the neck at the top of the opening (where we are going to attach the head).

Round 1

Ch 1, sc into same st, sc 31 along the neck ch, ss into 1st sc (32 sc)

Round 2

Ch 1, *sc2tog, sc into next 2 sts*, rep *.* 7 more times (24 sc), cut yarn leaving a 40 cm tail to use to slip stitch the neck closed AFTER we have attached the body to the tail in Part 6.

HANDS

Make two – lightly stuffed and worked in the round.  Using colour (A) yarn make a mc.

Round 1

Ch 1, sc 6 into mc, place st marker into 6th sc and continue to work in the round (6 sc).

Round 2

Sc 2 into each st (12 sc).

Round 3

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next st*, rep *.*  5 more times (18 sc).

Round 4

*sc 2 into next st, sc into next 2 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (24 sc).

Round 5

Sc into next 24 sts (24 sc).

Rounds 6 – 9

Repeat round 5 (24 sc).

Round 10

Make a 5 tr cl st into next st, sc into next 23 sts (1 x 5 tr cl, 23 sc).

Round 11

Sc into next 22 sts, sc2tog (23 sc).

Round 12

Sc into next 21 sts, sc2tog (22 sc).

Round 13

Sc into next 20 sts, sc2tog (21 sc).

Round 14

Sc into next 19 sts, sc2tog (20 sc).

Round 15

Sc into next 18 sts, sc2tog (19 sc).

Round 16

Helpful hint: at the end of this round we will continue to make the arms using the same yarn, so do not cut your yarn.

Sc into next 17 sts, sc2tog, sc an additional (approximately) 12 to 14 sts so that you end up on the side opposite the thumb so that the “join” will be underneath the arm, then ss into the next st (18 sc + app 12 to 14 sc).

ARMS

Round 17

Ch 1 and dc into same st, dc into the next 17 sts, ss into 1st dc (18 dc).

Helpful hint: the chain 1 stitch does not count as a stitch BUT it is used, and the reason for this is so that we get a nice straight join – have no idea how, but it works LOL.

Round 18

Ch 1, dc into same st, dc into next 17 sts, ss into 1st dc (18 dc).

Round 19-25

Repeat round 18.

Helpful hint: lightly stuff the hands, think squishy, then the same colour yarn slip stitch the “wrist” closed, securing the stuffing into the hand, the arm is not stuffed so you can cut the yarn, weave in ends.

Round 26

Ch 1, sc into same st, sc into next 17 sts, ss into 1st st, then slip stitch the opening closed, cut yarn leaving a tail to stitch the arm onto the body in Part 6.


PART 3

TAIL

Helpful hint: you will be working from the bottom of the tail to the top of the tail.

Helpful hint: if you are not familiar with the dragon scale stitch watch this super helpful video tutorial – click here.

Round 1 – using colour (B)

Ch 24, ss into 1st ch to form a ring, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same ch, ch 2, sk 2 ch, [2 dc into next ch, ch 2, sk 2 ch], rep [.]  6 more times, ss into top of 3rd ch of beg ch (16 dc, 8 ch 2).

Helpful hint: the “V” stitch has five double crochet stitches down one side, chain one and five double crochet stitches up the other side and you will rotate your work to do either side of the scale.

Round 2

Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), rotate work, make 4 dc around 1st dc, ch 1, rotate work in the opposite direction, make 5 dc’s around 2nd dc working upwards, ch 1, sk next 2 dc’s, [make 5 dc’s around next dc, ch 1, make 5 dc’s around next  dc, ch 1, sk next 2 dc’s ], rep [.] 2 more times, ss into top of 3rd ch of beg ch (4 scales).

Round 3 (increase round)

Helpful hint: you will be working into the spaces between all unworked two double crochet stitches “V” from the previous round as well as the space made between the 5 sets of dc’s (scale).

*[Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc, ch 2, dc 2] into sp between the two unworked dc’s of previous round, ch 2, dc 2 into next sp which is the space between the 2 sets of 5 dc’s of previous round (scale), ch 2*, rep 3 more times (just replace the 1st ch 3 with a dc), ss into top of 3rd ch of beg ch (24 dc, 12 ch 2).

Round 4

Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), make 4 dc’s around 1st dc, ch 1, make 5 dc’s around 2nd dc, ch 1, sk next 2 dc’s, [make 5 dc’s around 1st dc, ch 1, make 5 dc’s around 2nd dc, ch 1, sk next 2 dc’s], rep [.] 4 more times, ss into top of 3rd ch of beg ch (6 scales), cut yarn, weave in ends.

Round 5 – using colour (C)

Join new yarn to space before any scale, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, ch 2, *make 2 dc into next sp, ch 2*, rep *.* 4 more times, ss into top of 3rd ch of beg ch (24 dc, 12 ch 2).

Round 6

Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), make 4 dc’s around 1st dc, ch 1, make 5 dc’s around 2nd dc, ch 1, sk next 2 dc’s, [make 5 dc’s around 1st dc, ch 1, make 5 dc’s around 2nd dc, ch 1, sk next 2 dc’s], rep [.] 4 more times, ss into top of 3rd ch of beg ch (6 scales).

Round 7 (increase round)

*[Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc, ch 2, dc 2] into same sp, ch 2, dc 2 into next sp, ch 2, dc 2 into next sp, ch 2*, rep 3 more times (just replace the 1st ch 3 with a dc), ss into top of 3rd ch of beg ch (32 dc, 16 ch 2).

Round 8

Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), make 4 dc’s around 1st dc, ch 1, make 5 dc’s around 2nd dc, ch 1, sk next 2 dc’s, [make 5 dc’s around 1st dc, ch 1, make 5 dc’s around 2nd dc, ch 1, sk next 2 dc’s], rep [.] 6 more times, ss into top of 3rd ch of beg ch (8 scales) cut yarn, weave in ends.

Round 9 – using colour (D)

Join new yarn to space before any scale, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, ch 2, *make 2 dc into next sp, ch 2*, rep *.* 6 more times, ss into top of 3rd ch of beg ch (32 dc, 16 ch 2).

Round 10

Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), make 4 dc’s around 1st dc, ch 1, make 5 dc’s around 2nd dc, ch 1, sk next 2 dc’s, [make 5 dc’s around 1st dc, ch 1, make 5 dc’s around 2nd dc, ch 1, sk next 2 dc’s], rep [.] 6 more times, ss into top of 3rd ch of beg ch (8 scales).

Round 11

Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, ch 2, *make 2 dc into next sp, ch 2*, rep *.* 6 more times, ss into top of 3rd ch of beg ch (32 dc, 16 ch 2).

Round 12

Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), make 4 dc’s around 1st dc, ch 1, make 5 dc’s around 2nd dc, ch 1, sk next 2 dc’s, [make 5 dc’s around 1st dc, ch 1, make 5 dc’s around 2nd dc, ch 1, sk next 2 dc’s], rep [.] 6 more times, ss into top of 3rd ch of beg ch (8 scales), cut yarn, weave in ends.

Round 13 – using colour (E)

Join new yarn to space before any scale, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, ch 2, *make 2 dc into next sp, ch 2*, rep *.* 6 more times, ss into top of 3rd ch of beg ch (32 dc, 16 ch 2).

Round 14

Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), make 4 dc’s around 1st dc, ch 1, make 5 dc’s around 2nd dc, ch 1, sk next 2 dc’s, [make 5 dc’s around 1st dc, ch 1, make 5 dc’s around 2nd dc, ch 1, sk next 2 dc’s], rep [.] 6 more times, ss into top of 3rd ch of beg ch (8 scales).

Round 15

Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, ch 2, *make 2 dc into next sp, ch 2*, rep *.* 6 more times, ss into top of 3rd ch of beg ch (32 dc, 16 ch 2).

Round 16

Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), make 4 dc’s around 1st dc, ch 1, make 5 dc’s around 2nd dc, ch 1, sk next 2 dc’s, [make 5 dc’s around 1st dc, ch 1, make 5 dc’s around 2nd dc], rep [.] 6 more times, ss into top of 3rd ch of beg ch (8 scales), cut yarn, weave in ends.

Round 17 – using colour (F)

Join new yarn to space before any scale, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, ch 2, *make 2 dc into next sp, ch 2*, rep *.* 6 more times, ss into top of 3rd ch of beg ch (32 dc, 16 ch 2).

Round 18

Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), make 4 dc’s around 1st dc, ch 1, make 5 dc’s around 2nd dc, ch 1, sk next 2 dc’s, [make 5 dc’s around 1st dc, ch 1, make 5 dc’s around 2nd dc, ch 1, sk next 2 dc’s], rep [.] 6 more times, ss into top of 3rd ch of beg ch (8 scales).

Round 19

Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, ch 2, *make 2 dc into next sp, ch 2*, rep *.* 6 more times, ss into top of 3rd ch of beg ch (32 dc, 16 ch 2).

Round 20

Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), make 4 dc’s around 1st dc, ch 1, make 5 dc’s around 2nd dc, ch 1, sk next 2 dc’s, [make 5 dc’s around 1st dc, ch 1, make 5 dc’s around 2nd dc, ch 1, sk next 2 dc’s], rep [.] 6 more times, ss into top of 3rd ch of beg ch (8 scales), cut yarn, weave in ends.

Round 21 – using colour (G)

Join new yarn to space before any scale, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, ch 2, *make 2 dc into next sp, ch 2*, rep *.* 6 more times, ss into top of 3rd ch of beg ch (32 dc, 16 ch 2).

Round 22

Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), make 4 dc’s around 1st dc, ch 1, make 5 dc’s around 2nd dc, ch 1, sk next 2 dc’s, [make 5 dc’s around 1st dc, ch 1, make 5 dc’s around 2nd dc, ch 1, sk next 2 dc’s], rep [.] 6 more times, ss into top of 3rd ch of beg ch (8 scales).

Round 23

Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, ch 2, *make 2 dc into next sp, ch 2*, rep *.* 6 more times, ss into top of 3rd ch of beg ch (32 dc, 16 ch 2).

Round 24

Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), make 4 dc’s around 1st dc, ch 1, make 5 dc’s around 2nd dc, ch 1, sk next 2 dc’s, [make 5 dc’s around 1st dc, ch 1, make 5 dc’s around 2nd dc, ch 1, sk next 2 dc’s], rep [.] 6 more times, ss into top of 3rd ch of beg ch (8 scales), cut yarn, weave in ends.

Round 25 – using colour (H)

Join new yarn to space before any scale, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, ch 2, *make 2 dc into next sp, ch 2*, rep *.* 6 more times, ss into top of 3rd ch of beg ch (32 dc, 16 ch 2).

Round 26

Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), make 4 dc’s around 1st dc, ch 1, make 5 dc’s around 2nd dc, ch 1, sk next 2 dc’s, [make 5 dc’s around 1st dc, ch 1, make 5 dc’s around 2nd dc, ch 1, sk next 2 dc’s], rep [.] 6 more times, ss into top of 3rd ch of beg ch (8 scales).

Round 27

Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, ch 2, *make 2 dc into next sp, ch 2*, rep *.* 6 more times, ss into top of 3rd ch of beg ch (32 dc, 16 ch 2).

Round 28

Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), make 4 dc’s around 1st dc, ch 1, make 5 dc’s around 2nd dc, ch 1, sk next 2 dc’s, [make 5 dc’s around 1st dc, ch 1, make 5 dc’s around 2nd dc, ch 1, sk next 2 dc’s], rep [.] 6 more times, ss into top of 3rd ch of beg ch (8 scales), cut yarn, weave in ends.

Round 29 – using colour (I)

Join new yarn to space before any scale, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, ch 2, *make 2 dc into next sp, ch 2*, rep *.* 6 more times, ss into top of 3rd ch of beg ch (32 dc, 16 ch 2).

Round 30

Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), make 4 dc’s around 1st dc, ch 1, make 5 dc’s around 2nd dc, ch 1, sk next 2 dc’s, [make 5 dc’s around 1st dc, ch 1, make 5 dc’s around 2nd dc, ch 1, sk next 2 dc’s], rep [.] 6 more times, ss into top of 3rd ch of beg ch (8 scales).

Round 31

Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, ch 2, *make 2 dc into next sp, ch 2*, rep *.* 6 more times, ss into top of 3rd ch of beg ch (32 dc, 16 ch 2).

Round 32

Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), make 4 dc’s around 1st dc, ch 1, make 5 dc’s around 2nd dc, ch 1, sk next 2 dc’s, [make 5 dc’s around 1st dc, ch 1, make 5 dc’s around 2nd dc, ch 1, sk next 2 dc’s], rep [.] 6 more times, ss into top of 3rd ch of beg ch (8 scales), cut yarn, weave in ends.

Helpful hint: we will join the fin and the top of the body together in Part 6.


PART 4

HAIR  

Using colour (J) make a mc.

Helpful hint: there is a short YouTube Tutorial for the first section of the hair – to view it click here.

Round 1

Ch 1, sc 6 into mc, place stitch marker in 6th sc and continue to work in the round (6 sc)

Helpful hint: move the stitch marker and place in the last stitch of each row and this will help keep your stitch count correct and help with row counting, and because we are working quite tightly in the round, I weave my beginning tail in whilst working round 2.

Round 2

Sc 2 into each st (12 sc).

Helpful hint: with my patterns, I usually always start with an increase in the 1st stitch, so if your increase stitch falls in the first stitch of the increase stitch from the last row, your stitch should be correct.

Round 3

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next st* rep *.* 5 more times (18 sc)

Round 4

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 2 sts* rep *.* 5 more  times (24 sc).

Round 5

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 3 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (30 sc).

Round 6

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 4 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (36 sc).

Round 7

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 5 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (42 sc).

Round 8

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 6 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (48 sc).

Round 9

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 7 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (54 sc).

Round 10

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 8 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (60 sc), turn work.

Helpful hint: we will now be working in rows, turning work at the end of each row.

Row 11 – with wrong side facing

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc2tog, sc into next 53 sts, sc2tog (55 sc), turn work.

Helpful hint: 3 stitches remain unworked. 

Row 12 – with right side facing.

Ch 1 (does not count as a st, sc2tog, sc into next 51 sts, sc2tog (53 sc), turn work.

Row 13

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc2tog, sc into next 49 sts, sc2tog (51 sc), turn work.

Row 14

Ch 1 (does not count as a st, sc2tog, sc into next 47 sts, sc2tog (49 sc), turn work.

Row 15

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc2tog, sc into next 45 sts, sc2tog (47 sc), turn work.

Row 16

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc2tog, sc into next 43 sts, sc2tog (45 sc), turn work.

Row 17

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc2tog, sc into next 41 sts, sc2tog (43 sc), turn work.

Row 18

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc2tog, sc into next 39 sts, sc2tog (41 sc), DO NOT TURN WORK.

Row 19 – with right side facing.

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into each of the 9 rows (9 sc), sc 3, sc into each of the 9 rows (9 sc), DO NOT TURN WORK.

Helpful hint: we will now be working the hair strands and we will be working into the front loop only.  Make your slip stitch into the bottom chain.

Row 20

Ss into FLO of next st, ch 20, ss into 2nd ch from hook, ss into next 18 ch’s (19 ss).

Rows 21-22

Repeat row 20, (18 ss).

Row 23

Ss into FLO of next st, ch 25, ss into 2nd ch from hook, ss into next 23 ch’s (24 ss).

Rows 24-25

Repeat row 23, (23 ss).

Row 26

Ss into FLO of next st, ch 30, ss into 2nd ch from hook, ss into next 28 ch’s (29 ss).

Rows 27-54

Repeat row 26, (29 ss).

Row 55

Ss into FLO of next st, ch 25, ss into 2nd ch from hook, ss into next 23 ch’s (24 ss).

Rows 56-57

Repeat row 55, (24 ss).

Row 58

Ss into FLO of next st, ch 20, ss into 2nd ch from hook, ss into next 18 ch’s (19 ss).

Rows 59-81

Repeat row 58, (19 ss).

Helpful hint: we will now be working the second row of hair strands and we will be working into the back loop only.  Make your slip stitch into the bottom chain.

Row 82

Ss into BLO of next st, ch 30, ss into 2nd ch from hook, ss into next 28 ch’s (29 ss).

Rows 83-89

Repeat row 82, (28 ss).

Row 90

Ss into BLO of next st, ch 35, ss into 2nd ch from hook, ss into next 33 ch’s (34 ss).

Rows 91-121

Repeat row 90, (33 ss).

Row 122

Ss into BLO of next st, ch 30, ss into 2nd ch from hook, ss into next 28 ch’s (29 ss).

Rows 123-129

Repeat row 122, (28 ss), ss into next st, cut yarn, weave in ends.


PART 5

FIN

Make two, using colour (E) yarn chain 20.

Row 1

Sc into 2nd ch from hook, sc into next 5 ch, hdc into next 11 ch, dc 2 into next 2 ch, ch 1, turn (6 sc, 11 hdc, 2 dc)

Helpful hint: make every stitch from now on into the back loop only (BLO).

Row 2- BLO

Dc2tog, dc into next st, hdc into next 10 sts, sc into next 6 sts, ch 1, turn (2 dc, hdc 10, sc 6).

Row 3- BLO

Sc into next 6 sts, hdc into next 9 sts, dc into next 2 sts, ch 1, turn (6 sc, 9 hdc, 2 dc).

Row 4- BLO

Dc2tog, dc into next st, hdc into next 8 sts, sc into next 6 sts, ch 1, turn (2 dc, hdc 8, sc 6).

Row 5- BLO

Sc into next 6 sts, hdc into next 7 sts, dc into next 2 sts, ch 1, turn (6 sc, 7 hdc, 2 dc).

Row 6- BLO

Dc2tog, dc into next st, hdc into next 6 sts, sc into next 6 sts, ch 1, turn (2 dc, hdc 6, sc 6).

Row 7- BLO

Sc into next 6 sts, hdc into next 5 sts, dc into next 2 sts, ch 1, turn (6 sc, 5 hdc, 2 dc).

Row 8- BLO

Dc2tog, dc into next st, hdc into next 4 sts, sc into next 6 sts, ch 1, turn (2 dc, hdc 4, sc 6).

Row 9- BLO

Sc into next 11 sts, ch 1, turn (11 sc).

Row 10- BLO

Dc 3 into 1st st, hdc into next 4 sts, sc into next 6 sts, ch 1, turn (3 dc, 4 hdc, sc 6).

Row 11- BLO

Sc into next 6 sts, hdc into next 5 sts, dc into next 2 sts, ch 1 turn (sc 6, 5 hdc, 2 dc).

Row 12- BLO

Dc 3 into 1st st, hdc into next 6 sts, sc into next 6 sts, ch 1, turn (3 dc, 6 hdc, sc 6).

Row 13- BLO

Sc into next 6 sts, hdc into next 7 sts, dc into next 2 sts, ch 1, turn (sc 7, 5 hdc, 2 dc).

Row 14- BLO

Dc 3 into 1st st, hdc into next 8 sts, sc into next 6 sts, ch 1, turn (3 dc, 8 hdc, sc 6).

Row 15- BLO

Sc into next 6 sts, hdc into next 9 sts, dc into next 2 sts, ch 1, turn (sc 9, 5 hdc, 2 dc).

Row 16- BLO

Dc 3 into 1st st, hdc into next 10 sts, sc ino next 6 sts, ch 1, turn (3 dc, 10 hdc, sc 6).

Row 17- BLO

Sc into next 6 sts, hdc into next 11 sts, dc into next 2 sts, (sc 6, 11 hdc, 2 dc), cut yarn, weave in ends.

Helpful hint: we will stitch the fin to the tail in Part 6.

HEART

Make 1 using colour (G) yarn, make a mc.

Round 1

Ch 1 (does not count as a st) sc 12 into mc, ss into 1st sc (12 sc).

Round 2

Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same st, dc 3 into next st, hdc into next st, sc into next 2 sts, hdc into next st (bottom of heart), sc into next 2 sts, hdc into next st, dc 3 into next st, dc into next st, ch 3, ss into dc from previous round, cut yarn, leaving 20cm tail to use to stitch to top of body and nj into same sp of last dc from round (this will give you a nice heart shape) (2 ch 3, 3 hdc, 8 dc, 4 sc).

STARFISH

Make 1 in each colour (C), (F) & (I) yarn.

Round 1

Make a mc, ch 6, ss into 2nd ch from hook, ss into next 2 ch’s, sc into next 2 ch’s, ss into mc, rep *.* 4 more times, cut yarn, and pull mc tight.


PART 6

BRINGING YOUR MELLY TEDDY RAGDOLL TO LIFE

You have made all the different body parts and motifs, now to bring your Melly Teddy to life.

You do not need to follow these instructions exactly, this is just the way I like to put mine together, so is a suggestion only – the idea is to have FUN with the design, use your imagination and make yours unique.

ATTACHING THE ARMS/HANDS

Place the body flat, making sure that the increase stitches are on either side, then slip stitch the arm to the body between rows 2 and 5 – I slip stitch the front and the back of the arm to make it more stable.  The thumbs are facing upwards (thumbs up 😊) and the seam should be at the bottom of the arm.

ATTACHING THE FIN TO THE TAIL

I slip stitch the two fins’ together at the narrow end, you will need to gather the narrow end slightly so that it is the same width as the opening at the end of the tail.  Then slip stitch the tail to the opening using the beginning chain to attach the fin (joined now) to the tail, and again I slip stitch the front and the back of the fin to the tail to make it more sturdy, the fin is slightly longer at the narrow end than the opening of the tail, so remember to gently gather it so that it lies straight.

ATTACHING THE BODY TO THE TAIL, ADDING THE HEART

Using the same colour yarn as the body I slip stitch the tail to the body using the chain stitches from the last row of Dragon Scale stitches.  Then using the tail from the crocheted heart, slip stitch the heart onto the body.

ATTACHING THE HAIR TO THE HEAD, ADDING STARFISH

I place the hair onto the head about 6 – 8 rows above the eyes, I then slip stitch the hair to the head using the same colour yarn.  Then I take 3 strands from each side of the head (sort of above where the ears might have been) but not the fringe, so the longer strands, and plait them loosely together, and attach them at the back of her head, I use the starfish as a “clip” to “keep” the braids together, I then loosely roll the fringe on either side of her face and attach another star fish as a “clip”.

ADDING THE NOSE, MOUTH AND EYEBROWS.

Using the same colour as the hair, I make an eyebrow above the eyes, approximately 3 stitches long.  I start two rows above the eye, and end 1 row above the eye, so that the eyebrows are slightly skew.  The eyebrows are about 8 stitches apart from each other. 

Using the same colour yarn as the face, I make a nose over 3 stitches, by going over the area with the yarn 6 to 8 times, pulling very gently – a bit like a satin stitch in embroidery.  The stiches are worked over each other and all in the same space.  I make the nose between the eyes, 1 row below the eyes.

Using some pink yarn, I do the exact same stitch for the mouth as I used for the nose, however I make 2 stitches on top of each other, 3 rows below the nose, over 3 stitches.

This is just a suggestion, you can do what ever you like with your mermaid – embroider her eyes, use your imagination, she is your unique creation.

ATTACHING THE HEAD

I like to add the head last, because this is the most important join, and this is the last thing you do before your Melly Teddy Ragdoll comes to life, this is my favourite part.  I use a disappearing ink marker to mark where I want my head to be placed, you can use stitch markers or pins, to help you.  Slip stitch the neck opening, like you did the arms and the feet, then lie your body flat, and make sure that the middle of the head is exactly joined to the middle of the body, otherwise it will look funny, and lie skew.  So, you are working “over” the centre of the end of the head, then slip stitch the body to the head, on both sides, cut yarn and weave in.

Now you have made your beautiful Melly Teddy Ragdoll Mermaid for that someone special, you can print out his/her very own Birth Certificate.

BIRTH CERTIFICATE

Now you have made your beautiful Melly Teddy Ragdoll for that special someone.  You can print out his/her very own unique Birth Certificate.

Melly Teddy Ragdoll Shelly Mermaid BIRTH CERTIFICATE


PATTERN SUPPORT

THANK YOU FOR YOUR SUPPORT

Thank you for your support and I hope that you enjoy making this pattern as much as I did during the design process. 

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