MandMCrochetDesigns | Maddy Doll Halloween Witch #freecrochetpattern #MaddyDoll #MelanieGroblerDesigns #amigurumiwitch #crochethalloween #crochetwitch #halloweenwitch #vinniscolours #bambooyarn #crochetdoll #crochetsofttoy

Maddy Doll Halloween Witch

Maddy Doll “Halloween Witch”

Free Amigurumi Crochet Pattern

My daughter, Madison (8) inspired the Maddy Doll.  When I have an idea for a new project, sometimes we discuss it and she helps me choose the colours.  She will then draw a picture of how she would like the doll to look, and then I design it for her.  The Halloween Witch is the very first Maddy Doll, and we are both very excited to share her with you.

The Maddy Doll is a soft toy.  It has a stuffed head and body with arms and knees that bend.  The body is crocheted in one piece and the head is added at the end.  Each Maddy Doll  is 41 cm (16 inches) from the top of the head to the bottom of the feet.

Introducing Maddy Doll Halloween Witch

MandMCrochetDesigns | Maddy Doll Halloween Witch #freecrochetpattern #MaddyDoll #MelanieGroblerDesigns #amigurumiwitch #crochethalloween #crochetwitch #halloweenwitch #vinniscolours #bambooyarn #crochetdoll #crochetsofttoy

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WHAT YOU WILL CROCHET

The Maddy Doll is a soft toy.  It has a stuffed head and body with arms and knees that bend.  The body is crocheted in one piece and the head is added at the end.

FINISHED SIZE

Each Maddy Doll  is 41 cm (16 inches) from the top of the head to the bottom of the feet.

CROCHET SKILL

Adventurous beginner – you will need a basic knowledge of the amigurumi technique.
The pattern has loads of clear colour tutorial photos.  There are helpful hints along the way which are highlighted in bold.

COPYRIGHT © 2021

The pattern or any portion of it may not be reproduced or used in any manner whatsoever without the express written permission of the designer.
The design, pattern, and all images are the property of MandMCrochetDesigns.
The purchaser of this pattern may use it for personal use and/or charity.
Sales of the finished items (made by you and not commercial in quantity or production) are encouraged, and credit given to the designer would be most appreciated.

Please respect the amount of time, effort and love that goes into each of my designs, and even if they are for free, please send your friends the link and do not send them the pattern.

“Share the art within you with the ones you love…”

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MATERIALS

  • 2.5 mm hook
  • Stuffing
  • Small amount of pink embroidery thread or yarn for the mouth
  • 1 x pair 10 mm (.39 inches) safety eyes
  • Sewing needle
  • Stitch marker
  • Scissors
  • Pipe cleaner for hat (optional)

YARN

Vinnis Colours – Serina 4 Ply Sport 100% Bamboo viscose Eco-friendly (50 grams/111 metres)

​Desert Taupe – 50 grams

Purple Fantasy – 40 grams

Black – 50 grams

Deep Purple – 30 grams

Lavender – 20 grams

Violet – 40 grams

New Grass – 25 grams

Mustard – 15 grams

HELPFUL TIPS

  • Secure starting ends as you go along by weaving the beginning tail in whilst working the next round.
  • When changing colours do not finish off the final stitch; add new colour and finish off the last stitch to complete the colour change. The slip stitch used when changing colours does not count as a stitch.
  • When changing colours do not cut the yarn until told to do so.
  • When using more than one colour twist each colour around each other at the end of each round to help secure it. Do not twist too tightly.
  • The best way to make sure that your tail is long enough to attach the piece to the doll is to run the yarn close to the edge of the piece and cut the yarn 2 ½ times the length.
  • Chain stitches and slip stitches do not count as a stitch unless otherwise indicated.
  • Stitch counts are at the end of each round/row, bold and in parentheses.
  • When working in the round, use a stitch marker or a running stitch marker to keep track of the rounds/rows.
  • When working in the round I always start each round with an increase in the 1st stitch, so if your increase stitch falls in the 1st stitch of the increase stitch from the last round, your stitch count should be correct unless otherwise indicated.
  • Add stuffing as you go along unless otherwise indicated. The pieces should be firm so be careful not to overstuff.  If you can see your stuffing through your stitches, you have either added too much stuffing or you need to drop a hook size as your stitches are not tight enough.
  • Some ends are woven in as we go along but most are left until we get to Part 6 so read the instructions carefully.

NOTES

  • My pattern uses US terminology.
  • Always read through the pattern before you start to familiarise yourself with it.
  • Colours are for reference only and will vary depending on the light settings of your monitor/devices.
  • Some of the photo tutorials are from other designs or will show more completed parts, so do not worry about the colour or other parts – use them as a guide to check your work looks as it should.
  • My Maddy Dolls are designed using safety eyes, if gifting to babies and small children please remember safety first – you are welcome to embroider the eyes.
  • The pattern was designed in bamboo but can be made in any yarn. Just remember to use the correct hook size for the yarn you have chosen.
  • If you are working in thicker or thinner yarn your ragdoll size may vary.
  • Tension and hook size could also influence the overall size.
  • And lastly, COUNT your stitches and have loads of FUN.

PATTERN SUPPORT

  • Full pattern support is available from the MandMCrochetDesigns Facebook group.
  • Please post a question in the group if you need help and one of the super M&M’s will assist you.

TEST TEAM

  • A big thank you to my amazing, patient test team – I could not do this without your help, encouragement and hours and hours of hard work. You guys ROCK!!!

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  • Thank you to all the wonderful M&M’s who purchase my patterns, I really do appreciate your support but I do understand that not everyone can afford to purchase my patterns, which is why I have the patterns available for free on my blog (for a limited time).
  • Please take into consideration the number of hours that goes into creating each design and do not share the pattern with anyone, rather send them the link to my blog.
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MandMCrochetDesigns | Maddy Doll Halloween Witch #freecrochetpattern #MaddyDoll #MelanieGroblerDesigns #amigurumiwitch #crochethalloween #crochetwitch #halloweenwitch #vinniscolours #bambooyarn #crochetdoll #crochetsofttoy

ABBREVIATIONS

TERM ABBREVIATION STITCH INSTRUCTIONS
Back loop only BLO Insert hook into the back loop of the stitch only.
Chain ch Yarn over, pull through.
Double crochet dc Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through two loops.
Front loop only FLO Insert hook into the front loop of the stitch only.
Front post half double crochet fphdc Yarn over, insert hook around post of stitch from the front, yarn over, pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops.
Half double crochet hdc Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through all three loops.
Invisible single crochet two together inv sc2tog Insert hook into the front loop only of the next two stitches, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through two loops.
Magic circle mc  
Needle join nj When you have finished your last stitch, do not join, instead cut the yarn and pull it through the last stitch. Using a needle, insert into both loops of the first stitch of the same round/row. Go back into the back loop only of the last stitch of the round/row, and gently tighten the join, and it will form a “loop” on top of the stitch and look just like a regular stitch.
Repeat rep Repeat the stitches between *.* the required number of times.
Single crochet sc Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through two loops.
Single crochet two together sc2tog Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, insert hook into the next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops – this is a way to decrease your stitch count.
Single crochet three together sc3tog Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, insert hook into the next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, insert hook into the next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (four loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all four loops.
Skip sk Skip a stitch or space.
Slip stitch ss Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull through both the stitch and loop on hook.
Space/s sp/s The space between the stitches.
Stitch/es st/s The stitch itself.
5 Treble cluster 5 tr cl Yarn over twice, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through first two loops on hook, yarn over, pull through next two loops on hook, *yarn over twice, insert hook into same stitch space, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through two loops on hook, yarn over, pull through next two loops on the hook*, repeat *.* three more times (six loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all six loops.

 

PART 1 – MADDY DOLL HALLOWEEN WITCH

HEAD
Make one. Using colour (DESERT TAUPE) yarn, make a magic circle.

Helpful hint: we are working in the round.

Round 1 – top of head
Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc 6 into mc, place st marker in 6th sc and continue to work in the round (6 sc).

Helpful hint: move the stitch marker and place in the last stitch of each round; this will help keep your stitch count correct and help with round counting. Because we are working quite tightly in the round, I weave my beginning tail in whilst working round 2.

Round 2
*Sc 2 into next st*, rep *.* 5 more times (12 sc).
Helpful hint: with my patterns, I usually always start with an increase in the 1st stitch, so if your increase stitch falls in the 1st stitch of the increase stitch from the last round, your stitch count should be correct.

Round 3
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next st*, rep *.* 5 more times (18 sc).

Round 4
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 2 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (24 sc).

Round 5
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 3 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (30 sc).

Round 6
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 4 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (36 sc).

Round 7
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 5 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (42 sc).

Round 8
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 6 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (48 sc).

Round 9
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 7 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (54 sc).

Rounds 10 – 25
Sc into next 54 sts (54 sc).

Helpful hint: insert the safety eyes between round 16 and 17; about 10 visible stitches apart. If you prefer to embroider your eyes, you can do this when the head is finished.

Round 26
*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 7 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (48 sc).

Round 27
*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 6 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (42 sc).

Round 28
*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 5 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (36 sc).

Helpful hint: you can stuff the head now, and then just add more stuffing in before you attach the head to the body in Part 6, the head should be firm, be careful not to overstuff.

Round 29
*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 4 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (30 sc).

Round 30

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 3 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (24 sc).

Round 31
*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 2 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (18 sc).

Round 32
*Inv sc2tog, sc into next st*, rep *.* 5 more times (12 sc).

Round 33 – bottom of head
*Inv sc2tog*, rep *.* 5 more times (6 sc), cut yarn, use a sewing needle to sew end through FLO of each st, pull tight and weave in end.

Helpful hint: this is the bottom of the head where we will attach it to the body in Part 6.

HAIR

Make one. Using colour (PURPLE FANTASY) yarn, make a magic circle.

Helpful hint: we are working in rounds.

Round 1

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc 6 into mc, place st marker in 6th sc and continue to work in the round (6 sc).
Helpful hint: move the stitch marker and place in the last stitch of each round; this will help keep your stitch count correct and help with round counting. Because we are working quite tightly in the round, I weave my beginning tail in whilst working round 2.

Round 2

*Sc 2 into next st*, rep *.* 5 more times (12 sc).

Round 3
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next st*, rep *.* 5 more times (18 sc).

Round 4
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 2 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (24 sc).

Round 5
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 3 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (30 sc).

Round 6
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 4 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (36 sc).

Round 7
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 5 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (42 sc).

Round 8
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 6 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (48 sc).

Round 9
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 7 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (54 sc).

Round 10
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 8 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (60 sc), turn work.

Helpful hint: we will now be working in rows, turning work at the end of each row.

Row 11 – with wrong side facing

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc2tog, sc into next 53 sts, sc2tog (55 sc), turn work.

Helpful hint: 3 stitches remain unworked – the photos below show row 11 with right side facing up.

Row 12 – with right side facing

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc2tog, sc into next 51 sts, sc2tog (53 sc), turn work.

Row 13
Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc2tog, sc into next 49 sts, sc2tog (51 sc), turn work.

Row 14
Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc2tog, sc into next 47 sts, sc2tog (49 sc), turn work.

Row 15
Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc2tog, sc into next 45 sts, sc2tog (47 sc), turn work.

Row 16

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc2tog, sc into next 43 sts, sc2tog (45 sc), turn work.

Row 17
Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc2tog, sc into next 41 sts, sc2tog (43 sc), turn work.

Row 18
Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc2tog, sc into next 39 sts, sc2tog (41 sc), turn work.

Row 19
Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc2tog, sc into next 37 sts, sc2tog (39 sc), turn work.

Row 20
Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc2tog, sc into next 35 sts, sc2tog (37 sc), turn work.

Row 21

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc2tog, sc into next 33 sts, sc2tog (35 sc), turn work.

Row 22

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc2tog, sc into next 31 sts, sc2tog (33 sc), DO NOT TURN WORK.

FRONT EDGE OF HAIR – with right side facing
Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same sp, sc 11 sts evenly along the side of the hair, sc into next 3 sts (unworked sts from row 10 across forehead), sc 12 sts evenly along the side of the hair (the last sc of the edge will be made into the 1st st from row 22; 27 sc), DO NOT TURN WORK.

 

HAIR STRANDS

Helpful hint: will be making hair strands all around the bottom of the hair.

Helpful hint: make your slip stitch into the top chain loop and make it slightly loose.

Strand 1  – change hook size

Helpful hint: you are already in the place the 1st strand needs to be made, so just continue to make the chain 40 without doing anything else after finishing the front edge of the hair.

Using a 3 mm hook chain 40, ss into 2nd ch from hook, ss into next 38 (39 ss).

Strands 2 – 34

Ss into next st (does not count as a st), ch 40, ss into 2nd ch from hook, ss into next 38 chs (39 ss).  At the end of strand 34, ss into next st, cut yarn leaving an 85 cm tail.

Helpful hint: we will attach the hair to the head in Part 6.

Helpful hint: remember to go back to a 2.5 mm hook for the rest of the pattern.

 

PART 2 – MADDY DOLL HALLOWEEN WITCH

HANDS & ARMS

Make two. Using colour (DESERT TAUPE) yarn, make a magic circle.

Helpful hint: we are working in rounds.

Round 1

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc 6 into mc, place st marker into 6th sc and continue to work in the round (6 sc).

Helpful hint: move the stitch marker and place in the last stitch of each round; this will help keep your stitch count correct and help with round counting. Because we are working quite tightly in the round, I weave my beginning tail in whilst working round 2.

Round 2
*Sc 2 into next st*, rep *.* 5 more times (12 sc).

Round 3
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next st*, rep *.*  5 more times (18 sc).

Round 4
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 2 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (24 sc).

Rounds 5 – 9
Sc into next 24 sts (24 sc).

Round 10 – making the thumb
Make a 5 tr cl into next st, sc into next 23 sts (1 x 5 tr cl, 23 sc).

Helpful hint: when working the next round, you need to make a single crochet into the top of the 5 treble cluster stitch.

Round 11

Sc into next 22 sts, inv sc2tog (23 sc).

Round 12
Sc into next 21 sts, inv sc2tog (22 sc).

Round 13
Sc into next 20 sts, inv sc2tog (21 sc).

Round 14
Sc into next 19 sts, inv sc2tog (20 sc).

Round 15
Sc into next 18 sts, inv sc2tog (19 sc).

Round 16
Sc into next 17 sts, inv sc2tog (18 sc).

Round 17

Sc into next 16 sts, inv sc2tog (17 sc).

Round 18

Sc into next 15 sts, inv sc2tog (16 sc).

Helpful hint: you can firmly stuff the hand – be careful to not overstuff.

Rounds 19 – 36

Sc into next 16 sts (16 sc).  At the end of round 36, firmly stuff the arm – be careful to not overstuff.

Round 37

Helpful hint: refer to Helpful Tips about how to make a needle join.

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 2*, rep *.* 3 more times (12 sc).  At the end of round 37 cut yarn leaving a 10 cm tail and use the needle join technique to finish off the round, then carefully weave in the end into the inside of the arm.

Helpful hint: we will attach the arms to the body in Part 3 when we make the shoulders.

FEET & LEGS/STOCKINGS

Make two. Using colour (NEW GRASS) yarn, chain 10.

Helpful hint: we are working in rounds.

Round 1
Sc into 2nd ch from hook, sc into next 7 chs, sc 5 into last ch, working back along the other side of the chs, sc into next 7 chs, sc 2 into last ch (22 sc).

Round 2
Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 7 sts, sc 2 into next 5 sts, sc into next 7 sts, sc 2 into next 2 sts (30 sc).

Round 3
Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 12 sts, sc 2 into next 3 sts, sc into next 12 sts, sc 2 into next 2 sts (36 sc).

Round 4

Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 34 sts, sc 2 into last st (38 sc).

Rounds 5 – 7
Sc into next 38 sts (38 sc).

Round 8
Sc into next 12 sts, *inv sc2tog*, rep *.* 4 more times, sc into next 16 sts (33 sc).

Round 9
Sc into next 10 sts, *inv sc2tog*, rep *.* 1 more time, sc into next st, *inv sc2tog*, rep *.* 1 more time, sc into next 14 sts (29 sc).

Round 10
Sc into next 8 sts, *inv sc2tog*, rep *.* 1 more time, sc into next st, *inv sc2tog*, rep *.* 1 more time, sc into next 12 sts (25 sc).

Round 11
Sc into next 8 sts, inv sc2tog, sc into next st, inv sc2tog, sc into next 12 sts (23 sc).

Round 12
Sc into next 8 sts, inv sc2tog, sc into next 13 sts (22 sc).

Round 13

Sc into next 9 sts, *inv sc2tog*, rep *.* 1 more time, sc into next 9 sts (20 sc).

Rounds 14 – 16

Sc into next 20 sts (20 sc).

Helpful hint: stuff the foot until firm, be careful not to overstuff.  It is easier to stuff the legs as you go along rather than to try to get it done when you are finished.

Round 17 – change colour at end of round

Sc into next 20 sts, (colour change to DEEP PURPLE) (20 sc).

Helpful hint: when we change colours for the stockings, do not cut the yarn until told to do so.  We will twist each colour around each other at the end of each round to help secure it.  Refer to Helpful Tips about how to change colours.  Make the colour change into the last stitch of the round – this will keep your “line” straight, as apposed to it going around the leg.

Round 18 – change colour at end of round

Using colour (DEEP PURPLE) yarn, sc into next 20 sts, (colour change to NEW GRASS) (20 sc).

Round 19 – change colour at end of round

Using colour (NEW GRASS) yarn, sc into next 20 sts, (colour change to DEEP PURPLE) (20 sc).

Rounds 20 – 43

Repeat rounds 18 and 19 (20 sc).

Round 44 – change colour at end of round

Using colour (DEEP PURPLE) yarn, sc into next 20 sts, (colour change to NEW GRASS) (20 sc), cut yarn leaving a 15 cm tail, weave in whilst making round 45.

Rounds 45 – 46

Using colour (NEW GRASS) yarn, sc into next 20 sts (20 sc).  At the end of round 46 cut yarn leaving a 15 cm tail and use the needle join technique to finish of the round, then carefully weave the end into the inside of the leg.

Helpful hint: refer to Helpful Tips about how to make a needle join.

Helpful hint: stuff the leg until firm, be careful not to overstuff.  We will attach the legs to the body in Part 3.

PUMPKIN

Make one. Using colour (MUSTARD) yarn, make a magic circle.

Helpful hint: we are working in the round.

Round 1 – top of pumpkin
Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc 6 into mc, place st marker in 6th sc and continue to work in the round (6 sc).
Helpful hint: move the stitch marker and place in the last stitch of each round; this will help keep your stitch count correct and help with round counting. Because we are working quite tightly in the round, I weave my beginning tail in whilst working round 2.

Round 2
*Sc 2 into next st*, rep *.* 5 more times (12 sc).

Helpful hint: with my patterns, I usually always start with an increase in the 1st stitch, so if your increase stitch falls in the 1st stitch of the increase stitch from the last round, your stitch count should be correct.

Round 3
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next st*, rep *.* 5 more times (18 sc).

Round 4
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 2 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (24 sc).

Round 5
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 3 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (30 sc).

Round 6
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 4 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (36 sc).

Round 7
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 5 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (42 sc).

Round 8
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 6 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (48 sc).

Rounds 9 – 11

Sc into next 48 sts (48 sc).

Round 12
*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 6 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (42 sc).

Round 13
*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 5 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (36 sc).

Helpful hint: you can firmly stuff the pumpkin – be careful to not overstuff.

Round 14
*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 4 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (30 sc).

Round 15

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 3 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (24 sc).

Round 16

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 2 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (18 sc).

Round 17

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next st*, rep *.* 5 more times (12 sc).

Round 18

*Inv sc2tog*, rep *.* 5 more times (6 sc), cut yarn leaving a 70 cm tail.  Use a sewing needle to sew through the FLO of each st, pull tight and leave remaining tail.

Helpful hint: we will use the remaining tail to shape the pumpkin in Part 6.

 

STALK

Make one.  Using colour (DESERT TAUPE) yarn, make a magic circle.

Helpful hint: we are working in the round.

Round 1

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc 4 into mc, place st marker in 4th sc and continue to work in the round (4 sc).

Round 2

*Sc 2 into next st*, rep *.* 3 more times (8 sc).

Round 3 – BLO

Sc into BLO of next 8 sts (8 BLO sc).

Rounds 4 – 6

Sc into next 8 sts (8 sc).  At the end of round 6 cut yarn leaving a 20 cm tail.  Use  sewing needle sew through the FLO of each st, pull tight and leave remaining tail.

Helpful hint: we will use the remaining tail to  attach the stalk to the pumpkin in Part 6.

 

VINE

Make one.  Using colour (NEW GRASS) yarn, chain 16.

Row 1

Sc 3 into 2nd ch from hook, sc 3 into 14 chs (45 sc), cut yarn leaving a 20 cm tail.

Helpful hint: we will use the tail to attach the vine to the pumpkin in Part 6.

 

PART 3 – MADDY DOLL HALLOWEEN WITCH

BODY

Make one. Using colour (NEW GRASS) yarn.

Helpful hint: we are working in rounds.

Place the legs next to each other with the “toes” facing you.  There are 20 stitches in each leg.  Insert a stitch marker into either side of each leg 9 stitches apart.

Helpful hint: 1st stitch has stitch marker inserted into it, then 9 stitches, then next stitch will have a stitch marker inserted into it, then 9 stitches.

Round 1

With the heels (back of doll) facing you join colour (NEW GRASS) yarn into the stitch with the stitch marker on the outside of the dolls left leg.

Helpful hint: you can remove the stitch markers each time you work into the stitch the stitch marker is placed and work your starting tail in whilst working this round.

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same sp, sc into next 9 sts (across the front of the left leg), ch 5, then sc into the st with the stitch marker and sc into next 20 sts (across front and back of the right leg), ch 5, sc into st with the stitch marker, sc into remaining 9 sts of 1st left leg (10 ch, 40 sc).

Helpful hint: place a stitch or running marker in the last stitch to keep track of your rounds.

Round 2

Sc into next 10 sts (front of left leg), sc into next 5 ch, sc into next 20 sts (all around the right leg), sc into next 5 ch, sc into next 10 sts (back of left leg) (50 sc).

Rounds 3 – 16

Sc into next 50 sts (50 sc).  At the end of round 16 ss into next st, cut yarn leaving a 10 cm tail which you can weave in whilst making round 17.

Helpful hint: before we continue to make the body, we need to stitch the opening between the legs closed.  Using colour (NEW GRASS) yarn cut a 25 cm piece, use a needle to sew the opening closed.  Weave in ends. 

Helpful hint: stuff the top of the legs and the bottom of the body until firm, be careful not to overstuff.

Round 17 – colour change

Using colour (VIOLET) yarn, join into the ss from round 16, ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same sp, sc into next 49 sts (50 sc).

Round 18

Helpful hint: you can work in the starting tail from round 17 whilst making this round.

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 8 sts*, rep *.* 4 more times (45 sc).

Round 19

Sc into next 45 sts (45 sc).

Round 20

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 7 sts*, rep *.* 4 more times (40 sc).

Rounds 21 – 23

Sc into next 40 sts (40 sc).

Round 24

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 6 sts*, rep *.* 4 more times (35 sc).

Rounds 25 – 30

Sc into next 35 sts (35 sc).

Round 31

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 5 sts*, rep *.* 4 more times (30 sc).

Helpful hint: stuff the top of body until firm, be careful not to overstuff.

Rounds 32 – 33

Sc into next 30 sts (30 sc).

Round 34 –  BLO

Sc into BLO of next 30 sts (30 BLO sc), ss into next st, cut yarn leaving a 10 cm tail which you can weave in whilst making round 35.

Round 35 – colour change – attaching the arms

Helpful hint: if your last stitch after round 34 is not on the side of the body, then add a few extra single crochet stitches, this will not affect your stitch count, but will ensure that your arms are added at the side of the body.

Placing the left arm on the left side of the body, with the thumb facing upwards, using colour (DESERT TAUPE) yarn join into the ss from round 34, ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same sp, sc into next 12 sts (around left arm), sc into next 15 sts (across front of body), place the right arm on the right side of the body, with the thumb facing up and sc into next 12 sts (right arm), turn work and sc into next 15 sts (across back of body) (54 sc).

Round 36

Sc into next 54 sts (54 sc).

Helpful hint: you can continue to stuff the body and top of the arms as we go along – you want it nice and firm, but not overstuffed – if the filling is visible between your stitches, you have added too much.  If you struggle to get the stuffing into the arms, use the back of your hook – works like a charm 😊

Round 37

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 7 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (48 sc).

Round 38

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 6 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (42 sc).

Round 39

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 5 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (36 sc).

Round 40

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 4 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (30 sc).

Round 41

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 3 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (24 sc).

Rounds 42 – 43

Sc into next 24 sts (24 sc).  At the end of round 43 cut yarn leaving a 70 cm tail and use the needle join technique to finish off the round.

Helpful hint: refer to Helpful Tips about how to make a needle join.

Helpful hint: we will add a bit more stuffing before we attach the body to the head in Part 6.

 

PART 4 – MADDY DOLL HALLOWEEN WITCH

TOP

Make one.  Using colour (VIOLET) yarn, join into 3rd FLO from round 34 of the body.

Round 1 – FLO

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same sp, sk next two FLO sts, [7 dc shell] into next FLO st, sk next 2 FLO sts, sc into next FLO st, [7 dc shell] into next FLO st, sk next 2 FLO sts, sc into next FLO st (3 sc, 2 x 7 dc shells), cut yarn leaving a 20 cm tail.

Helpful hint: we will use the tail end to attach the shells to the body in Part 6.

 

BODICE

Make one.  Using colour (DEEP PURPLE) yarn, chain 46.

Helpful hint: we are working in rows.

Round 1

Sc into 2nd ch from hook, sc into next 44 chs (45 sc), turn work.

Round 2

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same sp, sc into next 44 sts (45 sc), turn work.

Round 3

*Sc2tog, sc into next 7 sts*, rep *.* 4 more times (40 sc), turn work.

Rounds 4 – 6

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same sp, sc into next 39 sts (40 sc), turn work.

Round 7

*Sc2tog, sc into next 6 sts*, rep *.* 4 more times (35 sc), turn work.

Rounds 8 – 12

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same sp, sc into next 34 sts (35 sc), turn work.

Round 13

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same sp, sc into next 34 sts (35 sc), do not turn work.

Round 14 – border

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same sp, sc 12 sts evenly along the side of the bodice, ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same sp, sc into next 44 sts (starting chs, you can work in your starting tail), ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc 12 sts evenly along the other side of the bodice, ch 1, ss into 1st st from round 13 (4 ch, 71 sc), cut yarn leaving a 70 cm tail.

Helpful hint: we will use the tail to attach the bodice to the body and add the ribbon in Part 6.

 

RIBBON

Make one.  Using colour (BLACK) yarn leave a 15 cm beginning tail, chain 90, cut yarn leaving a 15 cm tail.

Helpful hint: we will add the ribbon to the bodice in Part 6.

Helpful hint: you can use a regular ribbon if you prefer.

 

SKIRT

Make one.  Using colour (VIOLET) yarn, chain 54 and slip stitch into the 1st chain to make a circle.

Helpful hint: we are working in rounds.

Helpful hint: the chain 1 at the beginning of each round does not count as a stitch, but it is important to make the chain 1, and you will see why as we go along – it makes a nice straight seam – make the chain  loos otherwise the seam will “pull” up on this side.

Round 1

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same ch, dc into next 53 chs, ss into 1st st (54 dc).

Round 2

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same sp, dc into next 53 sts, ss into 1st st (54 dc).

Round 3 – BLO

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into BLO same sp, dc into BLO next 53 sts, ss into 1st st (54 BLO dc).

Rounds 4 – 5

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same sp, dc into next 53 sts, ss into 1st st (54 dc).  At the end of round 5 cut and weave in ends.

Round 6 – colour change – BLO

Using colour (LAVENDER) yarn, join into BLO 1st dc from round 5, ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into BLO same sp, dc BLO into next 53 sts (54 BLO dc).

Rounds 7 – 8

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same sp, dc into next 53 sts, ss into 1st st (54 dc).  At the end of round 8 cut and weave in ends.

 

FRILLS ON SKIRT

Frill 1

Round 1 – FLO

Using colour (VIOLET) yarn, join into FLO  1st dc  from round 3, ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into FLO same sp, *sk next 2 sts, 9 dc into FLO next st, sk next 2 sts, sc into FLO next st, ch 3, sk next 2 sts, sc into FLO next st, rep *.* 5 more times [omitting last sc of 5th repeat), ss into 1st st (6 x ch 3, 12 FLO sc, 6 x 9 FLO dc ).

Helpful hint: the photos below are to show you what the rounds look like – you will be working this round into the FLO from round 3.

Round 2

*[Ch 1  (counts as a st),  dc into next st], rep [.] 8 more times, ch 1, sc into ch 3 sp*, rep *.* 5 more times (60 ch 1, 6 sc, 54 dc).

Helpful hint: you do not need to slip stitch into the 1st as we are where we want to be for the next round.

Round 3

*[Sc into next ch 1 sp, ch 3],  rep [.] 7 more times, sc into next ch 1 sp, ss into sc from previous round*, rep *.* 5 more times, ss into 1st st (6 ss, 48 ch 3, 48 sc), cut yarn and weave in ends.

Frill 2

Round 1 – FLO

Using colour (LAVENDER) yarn, join into FLO  1st dc  from round 6, ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into FLO same sp, *sk next 2 sts, 9 dc into FLO next st, sk next 2 sts, sc into FLO next st, ch 3, sk next 2 sts, sc into FLO next st, rep *.* 5 more times [omitting last sc of 5th repeat), ss into 1st st (6 x ch 3, 12 FLO sc, 6 x 9 FLO dc ).

Round 2

*[Ch 1  (counts as a st),  dc into next st], rep [.] 8 more times, ch 1, sc into ch 3 sp*, rep *.* 5 more times (60 ch 1, 6 sc, 54 dc).

Helpful hint: you do not need to slip stitch into the 1st as we are where we want to be for the next round.

Round 3

*[Sc into next ch 1 sp, ch 3],  rep [.] 7 more times, sc into next ch 1 sp, ss into sc from previous round*, rep *.* 5 more times, ss into 1st st (6 ss, 48 ch 3, 48 sc), cut yarn and weave in ends.

Frill 3

Round 1

Using colour (DEEP PURPLE) yarn, join into 1st dc  from round 8, ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same sp, *sk next 2 sts, 9 dc into next st, sk next 2 sts, sc into next st, ch 3, sk next 2 sts, sc into next st, rep *.* 5 more times [omitting last sc of 5th repeat), ss into 1st st (6 x ch 3, 12 sc, 6 x 9 dc ).

Round 2

*[Ch 1  (counts as a st),  dc into next st], rep [.] 8 more times, ch 1, sc into ch 3 sp*, rep *.* 5 more times (60 ch 1, 6 sc, 54 dc).

Helpful hint: you do not need to slip stitch into the 1st as we are where we want to be for the next round

Round 3

*[Sc into next ch 1 sp, ch 3],  rep [.] 7 more times, sc into next ch 1 sp, ss into sc from previous round*, rep *.* 5 more times, ss into 1st st (6 ss, 48 ch 3, 48 sc), cut yarn and weave in ends.

 

WAISTBAND

Using colour (VIOLET) yarn, join into 1st st from round 1 of the skirt.

Helpful hint: we are working in rounds

Round 1

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same sp, sc into next 53 sts (54 sc).

Round 2

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), *sc2tog, sc into next 23 sts, sc2tog*, rep *.* 1 more time (50 sc).

Round 3

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same sp, sc into next 49 sts (50 sc), cut yarn leaving a 50 cm tail.

Helpful hint: we will use the tail to attach the skirt to the body in Part 6.

 

PART 5 – MADDY DOLL HALLOWEEN WITCH

WITCHES HAT

Make one. Using colour (BLACK) yarn, make a magic circle.

Helpful hint: we are working in rounds.

Round 1

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc 3 into mc, place st marker in 3rd sc and continue to work in the round (3 sc).

Helpful hint: move the stitch marker and place in the last stitch of each round; this will help keep your stitch count correct and help with round counting. Because we are working quite tightly in the round, I weave my beginning tail in whilst working round 2.

Round 2

*Sc 2 into next st*, rep *.* 2 more times (6 sc).

Rounds 3 – 6

Sc into next 6 sts (6 sc).

Round 7
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next st*, rep *.* 2 more times (9 sc).

Rounds 8 – 12

Sc into next 9 sts (9 sc).

Round 13

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 2 sts*, rep *.* 2 more times (12 sc).

Rounds 14 – 16

Sc into next 12 sts (12 sc).

Round 17

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 3 sts*, rep *.* 2 more times (15 sc).

Rounds 18 – 19

Sc into next 15 sts (15 sc).

Round 20
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 4 sts*, rep *.* 2 more times (18 sc).

Round 21
Sc into next 18 sts (18 sc).

Round 22
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 5 sts*, rep *.* 2 more times (21 sc).

Round 23

Sc into next 21 sts (21 sc).

Round 24
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 6 sts*, rep *.* 2 more times (24 sc).

Round 25

Sc into next 24 sts (24 sc).

Round 26
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 7 sts*, rep *.* 2 more times (27 sc).

Round 27

Sc into next 27 sts (27 sc).

Round 28
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 8 sts*, rep *.* 2 more times (30 sc).

Round 29

Sc into next 30 sts (30 sc).

Round 30
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 5 sts*, rep *.* 4 more times (35 sc).

Round 31

Sc into next 35 sts (35 sc).

Round 32
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 6 sts*, rep *.* 4 more times (40 sc).

Round 33

Sc into next 40 sts (40 sc).

Round 34
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 7 sts*, rep *.* 4 more times (45 sc).

Round 35

Sc into next 45 sts (45 sc).

Round 36
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 8 sts*, rep *.* 4 more times (50 sc).

Round 37

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 9 sts*, rep *.* 4 more times (55 sc).

Round 38

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 10 sts*, rep *.* 4 more times (60 sc).

Round 39

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 11 sts*, rep *.* 4 more times (65 sc).

Round 40

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 12 sts*, rep *.* 4 more times (70 sc).

Round 41

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 13 sts*, rep *.* 4 more times (75 sc).

Round 42 – FLO

Sc into FLO of next 75 sts (75 FLO sc).

Round 43

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 4 sts*, rep *.* 14 more times (90 sc).

Rounds 44 – 45

Sc into next 90 sts (90 sc).  At the end of round 45 cut yarn leaving a 70 cm tail and use the needle join technique to finish off the round.

Helpful hint: refer to Helpful Tips about how to make a needle join.

Helpful hint: we will attach the hat to the hair in Part 6.

BOOTS

Make two. Using colour (BLACK) yarn, chain 10.

Helpful hint: we are working in rounds.

Helpful hint:  the boots are quite snug, and if you struggle to get it on the foot, I did too.  You could go up half a hook size if you prefer.

Round 1

Sc into 2nd ch from hook, sc into next 7 chs, sc 5 into last ch, working back along the other side of the chs, sc into next 7 chs, sc 2 into last ch (22 sc).

Round 2

Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 7 sts, sc 2 into next 5 sts, sc into next 7 sts, sc 2 into next 2 sts (30 sc).

Round 3

Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 12 sts, sc 2 into next 3 sts, sc into next 12 sts, sc 2 into next 2 sts (36 sc).

Round 4

Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 34 sts, sc 2 into last st (38 sc).

Round 5 – BLO

Sc into BLO of next 38 sts (38 sc).

Rounds 6 – 8

Sc into next 38 sts (38 sc).

Round 9

Sc into next 12 sts, *inv sc2tog*, rep *.* 4 more times, sc into next 16 sts (33 sc).

Round 10

Sc into next 33 sts (33 sc).

Round 11

Sc into next 12 sts, *inv sc2tog*, rep *.* 2 more times, sc into next 15 sts (30 sc).

Round 12

Sc into next 10 sts, *inv sc2tog*, rep *.* 3 more times, sc into next 12 sts (26 sc).

Round 13

Sc into next 8 sts, *inv sc2tog*, rep *.* 3 more times, sc into next 10 sts (22 sc).

Rounds 14 – 15

Sc into next 22 sts (22 sc).

Round 16

Helpful hint: we are now working in rows.

Sc into next 11 sts (11 sc), turn work.

Round 17

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same sp, sc into next 21 sts (22 sc).

Rounds 18 – 28

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same sp, sc into next 21 sts (22 sc).   At the end of round 28 cut yarn leaving a 35 cm tail.

Helpful hint: we will add the boot laces when we attach the boots onto the feet in Part 6.

HEART

Make one.  Using colour (VIOLET) yarn, make a magic circle.

Helpful hint: we are working in rounds.

Round 1
Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc 12 into mc, ss into 1st sc (12 sc).

Round 2
Ch 3, dc into same sp, dc 3 into next st, hdc into next st, sc into next 2 sts, hdc into next st (bottom of heart), sc into next 2 sts, hdc into next st, dc 3 into next st, dc into next st, ch 3, ss into same sp, ss into next st (2 ch 3, 4 sc, 3 hdc, 8 dc), cut yarn leaving a 35 cm tail.

Helpful hint: we will attach the heart to the body in Part 6.

 

PART 6 – MADDY DOLL HALLOWEEN WITCH

BRINGING YOUR MADDY DOLL TO LIFE

You have made all the different body parts and motifs, now to bring your Maddy Doll to life.

You do not need to follow these instructions exactly, this is just the way I like to put mine together, so it’s a suggestion only – the idea is to have FUN with the design, use your imagination and make yours unique.

FINISHING THE PUMPKIN

Using the tail end from the pumpkin stitch around the pumpkin in 6 sections, going through the middle of the pumpkin each time and pull tight to make the segments of a pumpkin, sew the stalk to the centre of the pumpkin.  Repeat with the vine.  Weave in ends.

ATTACHING THE HEART TO THE BODY

Whip stitch the heart to the body – I added mine to the back of the stockings, but you can add it wherever you want to.  Weave in end.

FINISHING THE TOP

Using the tail end whip stitch the top of each shell to the body.  Weave in end.

ATTACHING THE SKIRT

Using the tail end whip stitch the skirt to the body using round 18 from the body as your stitch guide.  Weave in end.

ATTACHING THE BODICE

Pin the bodice to the body, placing the top of the bodice just below round 34, using the tail end whip stitch the bodice to the body across the top and the bottom of the bodice.  Do not attach the side of the bodice as we will add the ribbon here later in Part 6.

ADDING THE RIBBON

Add the ribbon to the bodice by threading through the row of single crochet stitches done when making the border for the bodice, tie a knot at the end, and weave in ends.  I used a needle to add the ribbon to the bodice.

ATTACHING THE BOOT TO THE FEET

Place the boot on the foot.  Using the tail end from the boot, whip stitch the top of the boot to round 23  from the leg/stocking.

Repeat to attach second shoe to the other foot.

ADDING THE SHOELACES TO THE BOOTS

Place pins in the boot every alternate round.  Using colour (MUSTARD) yarn, make the shoelaces – I did mine in rows, but you can cross them over – use your imagination.  I did not add a bow, but you can.

ADDING SEAM TO LEGS/ KNEES/ELBOWS

Using the same colour as the body use a running stitch to make the bend for the knees, top of the legs and elbows.

I made the bend at the top of the legs between rounds 45 (top of leg) and rounds 1 (of body).

I made the bend for the knees between rounds 33 and 34.

I made the bend for the elbows between rounds 24 and 25.

ADDING THE NOSE, MOUTH, EYEBROWS AND EYELASHES

Using the same colour as the hair (or a darker shade), I made eyelashes above each eye.

Using the same colour yarn as the face, I made a nose over 3 stitches, by going over the area with the yarn 6 – 8 times, pulling very gently – a bit like a satin stitch in embroidery.  The stitches are worked over each other and all in the same space.  I made the nose between the eyes, 1 row below the eyes.

Using some pink yarn, I do the exact same stitch for the mouth as I used for the nose, however I make 2 stitches on top of each other, 3 rows below the nose, over 5 stitches.

Using the same colour yarn as the hair, I added eyebrows 2 rows above the eye, and over 3 stitches.

I used face makeup to add blush to the cheeks.

This is just a suggestion, you can do whatever you like with your doll – embroider the eyes, use your imagination, they are your unique creations, and I can’t wait to see all your beautiful creations.

ATTACHING THE HEAD TO THE TOP OF THE BODY

Helpful hint: pin your head in place, check that your nose and mouth are in the middle and that the head lines up correctly with the body otherwise your head will be skew.

Using the tail end from the body attach the head to the body using the whip stitch over rounds 29/30 from the bottom of the head as a stitch guide.  I went around twice to make sure the head was well attached.

ATTACHING THE HAIR TO THE HEAD

I placed the hair onto the head with the middle of the hair line about 6 – 8 rounds above the eyes, then using the tail end from the hair, sew the hair to the head. Weave in end.

ADDING THE SPIDER WEB TO THE HAT

Using some white embroidery thread or thin white yarn, add the spider web to the hat as shown in the photos, you can do it any shape you like.  This is just a suggestion.

ATTACHING THE HAT TO THE HAIR

Add a pipe cleaner to the inside of the point of the hat – this is optional but will allow your doll to have a pointy hat.  Add a small amount of stuffing just to give the hat some shape, do not overstuff otherwise the hat will not sit nicely on top of the hair.

Place the hat onto the hair and pin to place.  Using the tail end from the hat, sew the hat on to the hair using the last row of the hat before making the brim.  Weave in end.

THANK YOU FOR YOUR SUPPORT

Thank you for your support and I hope that you enjoy making this pattern as much as I did during the design process.

For more visit me on:

https://mandmcrochetdesigns.com

https://www.etsy.com/shop/MandMCrochetStore

https://www.ravelry.com/designers/melanie-grobler

© 2020 |Designed by Melanie Grobler | MandMCrochetDesigns | All Rights are Reserved.

The design, pattern, and all images are the property of MandMCrochetDesigns. The purchaser of this pattern may use it for personal use and/or charity.  Sales of the finished items are encouraged, and credit given to the designer would be most appreciated. No part of the written pattern may be reproduced, altered, or distributed in any form, or by any means, without express written permission from Melanie Grobler | MandMCrochetDesigns.

MandMCrochetDesigns | Maddy Doll Halloween Witch #freecrochetpattern #MaddyDoll #MelanieGroblerDesigns #amigurumiwitch #crochethalloween #crochetwitch #halloweenwitch #vinniscolours #bambooyarn #crochetdoll #crochetsofttoy

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