MandMCrochetdesigns | Melly Teddy Ragdoll Sunbeam Fairy #mellyteddyragdoll #melaniegroblerdesigns #amigurumicrochet #amigurumifairy #amigurumiragdoll #crochetfairy #crochetragdoll #crochetamigurumi #amigurumidoll

Melly Teddy Ragdoll Sunbeam Fairy Part 4

Melly Teddy Ragdoll Sunbeam Fairy Part 4

Melly Teddy Ragdoll Sunbeam Fairy Part 4 is part of a free crochet along.

The Melly Teddy Ragdoll Sunbeam Fairy (part 4) is one of four fairies – she is the fourth one (her older sisters are the Harvest Fairy, Snowfall Fairy and Blossom Fairy).  She was created because I think we all need a little bit of magic in our lives and my little girl is thrilled to be the Fairy’s new mommy. My Ragdoll is a cross between a lovey blanket and a soft toy, perfect to crochet for anyone who needs some cuddles.  Make a super cute Melly Teddy Ragdoll for that special person in your life. 

They are fun and easy to make and are soft and snugly, perfect for cuddling and great yarn busters. 

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MandMCrochetdesigns | Melly Teddy Ragdoll Sunbeam Fairy #mellyteddyragdoll #melaniegroblerdesigns #amigurumicrochet #amigurumifairy #amigurumiragdoll #crochetfairy #crochetragdoll #crochetamigurumi #amigurumidoll

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Melly Teddy Ragdoll Sunbeam Fairy Part 4:

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Melly Teddy Ragdoll Sunbeam Fairy Part 4

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PATTERN – MELLY TEDDY RAGDOLL SUNBEAM FAIRY  PART 4

HAIR

Make one. Using colour (MAHOGANY) yarn, make a magic circle.
Helpful hint: we are working in rounds.
Round 1
Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc 6 into mc, place st marker in 6th sc and continue to work in the round (6 sc).
Helpful hint: move the stitch marker and place in the last stitch of each round; this will help keep your stitch count correct and help with round counting. Because we are working quite tightly in the round, I weave my beginning tail in whilst working round 2.
Round 2
*Sc 2 into next st*, rep *.* 5 more times (12 sc).
Round 3
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next st*, rep *.* 5 more times (18 sc).
Round 4
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 2 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (24 sc).
Round 5
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 3 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (30 sc).
Rounds 6 – 9
Sc into next 30 sts (30 sc).
Round 10
*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 3 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (24 sc).
Round 11
*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 2 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (18 sc).
Round 12
*Inv sc2tog, sc into next st*, rep *.* 5 more times (12 sc).
Helpful hint: stuff the bun nice and tight.
Round 13
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next st*, rep *.* 5 more times (18 sc).
Round 14
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 2 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (24 sc).
Round 15
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 3 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (30 sc).
Round 16
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 4 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (36 sc).
Round 17
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 5 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (42 sc).
Round 18
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 6 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (48 sc).
Round 19
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 7 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (54 sc).
Round 20
*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 8 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (60 sc), turn work.
Helpful hint: we will now be working in rows and turning work at the end of each row.  You do not need to use the invisible single crochet together for this section of the pattern.
Row 21 – with wrong side facing
Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc2tog, sc into next 53 sts, sc2tog (55 sc), turn work.
Helpful hint: 3 stitches remain unworked – the photo below shows row 11 with right side facing up.
Row 22 – with right side facing
Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc2tog, sc into next 51 sts, sc2tog (53 sc), turn work.
Row 23
Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc2tog, sc into next 49 sts, sc2tog (51 sc), turn work.
Row 24
Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc2tog, sc into next 47 sts, sc2tog (49 sc), turn work.
Row 25
Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc2tog, sc into next 45 sts, sc2tog (47 sc), turn work.
Row 26
Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc2tog, sc into next 43 sts, sc2tog (45 sc), turn work.
Row 27
Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc2tog, sc into next 41 sts, sc2tog (43 sc), turn work.
Row 28
Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc2tog, sc into next 39 sts, sc2tog (41 sc), turn work.
Row 29
Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc2tog, sc into next 37 sts, sc2tog (39 sc), turn work.
Row 30
Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc2tog, sc into next 35 sts, sc2tog (37 sc), turn work.
Row 31
Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc2tog, sc into next 33 sts, sc2tog (35 sc), turn work.
Row 32
Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc2tog, sc into next 31 sts, sc2tog (33 sc), turn work.
Row 33
Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc2tog, sc into next 29 sts, sc2tog (31 sc), turn work.
Row 34
Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc2tog, sc2tog, sc into next 9 sts, sc2tog, sc into next st, sc2tog, sc into next 9 sts, sc2tog, sc2tog (25 sc), turn work.
Row 35
Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc2tog, sc into next 8 sts, sc2tog, sc into next st, sc2tog, sc into next 8 sts, sc2tog (21 sc), turn work.
Row 36
Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc2tog, sc into next 17 sts, sc2tog (19 sc), DO NOT TURN WORK.
Helpful hint: do not worry about the filling in the bun section, as it will be secured into the bun when we attach the hair to the head in Part 6. 

  

FRONT EDGE OF HAIR – with right side facing
Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same sp, sc 15 sts evenly along the side of the hair, sc into next 3 sts (unworked sts from row 10 across forehead), sc 16 sts evenly along the side of the hair (35 sc), cut yarn leaving a 50 cm tail.
Helpful hint: the last sc of the edge will be made into the 1st st from row 36.

FRINGE – LEFT SIDE
Helpful hint: I am referring to ragdoll’s left side while we make this section of the fringe hair strands.
Helpful hint: place a sm into the 10th chain to help you when making the hair strands.
Strand 1
Using colour (MAHOGANY) yarn, join into 2nd sc (middle of the hair above the forehead), ch 35, sc 2 into 2nd ch from hook, sc 2 into next 23 chs, sc into next 10 chs (58 sc).
Strands 2 – 3
Ss into next 4 sts, ch 35, sc into 2nd ch from hook, sc 2 into next 23 chs, sc into next 10 chs (58 sc), at the end of strand 3 ss into next st, cut yarn leaving a 50 cm tail.
Helpful hint: we will use this tail to attach the hair strands onto the hair when we attach the hair to the head in Part 6.
FRINGE – RIGHT SIDE
Helpful hint: I am referring to ragdoll’s right side while we make this section of the fringe hair strands.
Strand 1
Using colour (MAHOGANY) yarn, join into the 5th st from 1st strand made on the left side of the hair (middle of the hair above the forehead), ch 35, sc 2 into 2nd ch from hook, sc 2 into next 23 chs, sc into next 10 chs (58 sc).
Strand 2
Ss into next 4 sts, ch 35, sc 2 into 2nd ch from hook, sc 2 into next 23 chs, sc into next 10 chs (58 sc), cut yarn leaving a 50 cm tail.
Helpful hint: we will use this tail to attach the hair strands onto the hair when we attach the hair to the head in Part 6.

CROWN
Make one.  Using colour (PRINCESS BUTTERCUP) yarn, leave a 40 cm starting tail, chain 40 and slip stitch into the 1st chain to from a circle.
Helpful hint: we are working in rounds.
Round 1
Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same ch sp, sc into next 39 chs, ss into 1st st (40 sc).
Rounds 2 – 3
Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same sp, sc into next 39 sts, ss into 1st st (40 sc).
Round 4
Ch 1 (does not count as a st), hdc into same sp, ch 1, sk next st, *hdc into next st, ch 1, sk next st*, rep *.* 18 more times, ss into 1st st (20 ch 1, 20 hdc).
Round 5
Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same sp, sc 2 into next ch 1 sp, *sc into next hdc, sc 2 into next ch 1 sp*, rep *.* 18 more times, ss into 1st st (60 sc).
Round 6
Helpful hint: you will chain 3 and skip 3 stitches for the first 3 repeats, then the last chain 3 is made over 2 skipped stitches – this is correct.  Your 10 double crochet stitches which will be made in round 7 will then fall into the chain 3 with 2 skipped stitches.
Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same sp, *ch 3, sk next 3 sts, sc into next st, ch 3, sk next 3 sts, sc into next st, ch 3, sk next 3 sts, sc into next st, ch 3, sk next 2 sts*, rep *.* 3 more times, ss into 1st st (16 ch 3, 16 sc).
Round 7
Ss into next ch 3 sp, ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same sp, ch 3, sc into next ch 3 sp, ch 3, sc into next ch 3 sp, dc 10 into next ch 3 sp, *sc into next ch 3 sp, ch 3, sc into next ch 3 sp, ch 3, sc into next ch 3 sp, dc 10 into next ch 3 sp*, rep *.* 2 more times, ss into 1st st (8 ch 3, 12 sc, 40 dc), cut yarn and weave in end.
Round 8 – change colour
Helpful hint: start this round in any chain 3 space immediately after a 10 double crochet shell from round 7.  And the stitches between the [ ] which are in bold are made into the 10 double crochet stitches from round 7.
Helpful hint: if you do not have gold yarn/embroidery thread you can use colour (PRINCESS BUTTERCUP) yarn.
Using colour (GOLD) embroidery thread or yarn, ch 1 (does not count as a st), *sc into ch 3 sp, ch 3, sc into next ch 3 sp, [sc into next 2 sts, hdc into next 2 sts, dc into next st, dc 2 into next st, picot, dc 2 into next st, dc into next st, hdc into next 2 sts, sc into next 2 sts]*, rep *.* 3 more times, ss into 1st st (4 ch 3, 24 sc, 16 hdc, 24 dc, 4 picot).

 

 

 

Melly Teddy Ragdoll Sunbeam Fairy Part 4

If you would like to join my Face Book Group click HERE and enjoy the fun of crocheting something with others from all over the world.

MandMCrochetdesigns | Melly Teddy Ragdoll Sunbeam Fairy #mellyteddyragdoll #melaniegroblerdesigns #amigurumicrochet #amigurumifairy #amigurumiragdoll #crochetfairy #crochetragdoll #crochetamigurumi #amigurumidoll

If you would like to purchase the PDF pattern from Ravelry click here.

If you would like to purchase the PDF pattern from Etsy click here.

CLICK HERE TO ADD THIS PATTERN TO YOUR RAVELRY QUEUE

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