MandMCrochetDesigns | Easter Bunny | #amigurumibunny #amigurumicrochet #freecrochetpattern #crochetbunny #crochetsofttoy #crochetforbabies #crochetforeaster #eastercrochet #vinniscolours #vinnisnikkim #crochetwithcotton

MellyGurumi Easter Bunny Part 2

MellyGurumi Easter Bunny Part 2

A FREE MINI CROCHET ALONG (CAL)

The MellyGurumi Easter Bunny (Part 2) is my very first full amigurumi creation – and hopefully the first of many more.  Her pattern is easy to follow, with step by step instructions, loads of photos and helpful hints – she also comes with her own unique birth certificate.

She is fun to create, and you can use your imagination when decorating her dress and the eggs in her basket.

The MellyGurumi Easter Bunny (Part 2) is perfect for cuddling and is a great yarn buster.

MellyGurumi Easter Bunny Part 2

MandMCrochetDesigns | Easter Bunny | #amigurumibunny #amigurumicrochet #freecrochetpattern #crochetbunny #crochetsofttoy #crochetforbabies #crochetforeaster #eastercrochet #vinniscolours #vinnisnikkim #crochetwithcotton

If you would like to purchase the PDF pattern from Ravelry click here.

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CLICK HERE TO ADD THIS PATTERN TO YOUR RAVELRY QUEUE

“Share the art within you with the ones you love…”

MandMCrochetDesigns | Easter Bunny | #amigurumibunny #amigurumicrochet #freecrochetpattern #crochetbunny #crochetsofttoy #crochetforbabies #crochetforeaster #eastercrochet #vinniscolours #vinnisnikkim #crochetwithcotton

 

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MellyGurumi Easter Bunny Part 2

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HOW A CROCHET ALONG (CAL) WORKS

  • The pattern is released in 3 parts over 10 days.
  • You can get each part separately from my blog FOR FREE with the Crochet Along (CAL).
  • A CAL is when we all work on the same project together.  A group of people from all over the world crocheting each section at the same time – it is lots of fun.

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MandMCrochetDesigns | Easter Bunny | #amigurumibunny #amigurumicrochet #freecrochetpattern #crochetbunny #crochetsofttoy #crochetforbabies #crochetforeaster #eastercrochet #vinniscolours #vinnisnikkim #crochetwithcotton

PATTERN – MellyGurumi Easter Bunny Part 2

SOCKS

 

 

 

 

 

Make two – firmly stuffed (be careful not to overstuff) and worked in the round.  Using colour (B) yarn make a mc.

Round 1

Ch 1, sc 6 into mc, place st marker into 6th sc and continue to work in the round (6 sc).

Round 2

*Sc 2 into next st*, rep *.* 5 more times (12 sc).

Round 3

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next st*, rep *.* 5 more times (18 sc).

Round 4

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 2 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (24 sc).

Round 5

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 3 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (30 sc).

Round 6

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 4 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (36 sc).

Round 7

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 5 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (42 sc).

Rounds 8 – 10

Sc into next 42 sts (42 sc).

Round 11

Sc into next 15 sts, *inv sc2tog*, rep *.* 5 more times, sc into next 15 sts (36 sc).

Round 12

Sc into next 12 sts, *inv sc2tog*, rep *.* 5 more times, sc into next 12 sts (30 sc).

Round 13

Sc into next 10 sts, *inv sc2tog*, rep *.* 4 more times, sc into next 10 sts (25 sc).

Round 14

Sc into next 8 sts, *inv sc2tog*, rep *.* 4 more times, sc into next 7 sts (20 sc).

Rounds 15 – 18

Sc into next 20 sts (20 sc).

SOCK FRILL

Round 19 – FLO

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 3 sts*, rep *.* 4 more times (25 sc).

Round 20

Sc into next 25 sts (25 sc).

Round 21

Helpful hint: the next row is NOT worked in the round.

Ss into next st, ch, sc into same sp, ch 3, sc into next st, *sc into next st, ch 3, sc into next st*, rep *.* 11 more times, ss into 1st st (25 sc, 12 ch 3), cut yarn and weave in ends.

LEGS

 

Fold frill of sock over and join colour (A) yarn at the back of the leg in the next unworked stitch from round 18.

Helpful hint: we will be working in the round again.

Round 22 – BLO

Sc into next 20 sts BLO (20 sc).

Rounds 23 – 42

Sc into next 20 sts (20 sc).

Helpful hint: we will now be working on the bottom of the knickers so at the end of round 42 cut yarn leaving a short tail to weave in when we do round 43.

Helpful hint: you can stuff the foot and leg.  Do not overstuff the leg as we are going to slip stitch the middle of the leg to make a bend in the leg for the knee – instructions for this will be found in Part 6.

KNICKERS

 

Join colour (B) yarn at the back of the leg.

Rounds 43 – 45

Sc into next 20 sts (20 sc).  At the end of round 45 ss into the next st, cut yarn and weave in ends.

BODY

JOINING LEGS

Helpful hint: fold both legs in half with the feet facing you, add a stitch marker at each end of the fold 9 stitches apart – 1 stitch with stitch marker, 9 stitches, 1 stitch with stitch marker, 9 stitches.

Place the legs in front of you with the heels facing you and start with the leg on your right-hand side, using colour (B) yarn join with a slip stitch into the stitch where you placed the stitch marker.

Round 1

Sc into next 10 sts (from right to left of 1st leg), ch 5, then sc into next 20 sts of 2nd leg (from right to left), turn your work so that the feet face you now, ch 5, sc into remaining 10 sts of 1st leg (50 sc).

Round 2

Sc into next 10 sts (1st leg), sc into next 5 ch, sc into next 20 sts (2nd leg), sc into next 5 ch, sc into next 10 sts (1st leg) (50 sc).

Rounds 3 – 10

Sc into next 50 sts (50 sc), at the end of round 10 cut yarn leaving a short tail to weave in when we do the next round.

Helpful hint: join colour (A) yarn to the 1st unworked stitch from previous round.

Rounds 11 – 16

Sc into next 50 sts (50 sc).

Round 17

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 8 sts*, rep *.* 4 more times (45 sc).

Round 18

Sc into next 45 sts (45 sc).

Round 19

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 7 sts*, rep *.* 4 more times (40 sc).

Rounds 20 – 23

Sc into next 40 sts (40 sc).

Round 24

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 6 sts*, rep *.* 4 more times (35 sc).

Rounds 25 – 30

Sc into next 35 sts (35 sc).

Round 31

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 5 sts*, rep *.* 4 more times (30 sc).

Round 32

Sc into next 30 sts, ss into next st, cut yarn leaving a short tail to weave in when working the next round.

JOINING ARMS

Helpful hint: fold body in half with the feet facing you.  Add a stitch marker at each side of the body 15 stitches apart.

Place the body in front of you with the feet facing you and start with the side of the body your right-hand side, using colour (A) yarn join with a slip stitch into the stitch where you placed the stitch marker.

Round 33

Sc into next 15 sts (across front of body), sc into next 12 sts (arm on your left-hand side), turn work, then sc into next 15 sts (across back of body), sc into next 12 sts (arm on your right-hand side) (54 sc).

Round 34

Sc into next 54 sts (54 sc).

Round 35

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 7 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (48 sc).

Round 36

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 6 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (42 sc).

Helpful hint: you can continue to stuff the body and top of the arms as we go along – you want it nice and firm, but not overstuffed – if the filling is visible between your stitches you have added too much.  If you struggle to get the stuffing into the arms, use the back of your hook – works like a charm 😊

Round 37

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 5 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (36 sc).

Round 38

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 4 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (30 sc).

Round 39

Sc into next 30 sts (30 sc), ss into next st, cut yarn leaving a tail long enough to use to attach the head to the body in Part 6.

Helpful hint: we will add a bit more stuffing before we attach the body to the head in Part 6.

SHOES

Make two and worked in the round, using colour (C) yarn make a mc.

Round 1

Ch 1, sc 6 into mc, place st marker into 6th sc and continue to work in the round (6 sc).

Round 2

*Sc 2 into next st*, rep *.* 5 more times (12 sc).

Round 3

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next st*, rep *.* 5 more times (18 sc).

Round 4

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 2 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (24 sc).

Round 5

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 3 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (30 sc).

Round 6

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 4 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (36 sc).

Round 7

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 5 sts*, rep *.* 5 more times (42 sc).

Round 8

Sc into next 41 sts, sc 2 into next st (43 sc).

Round 9

Sc into next 43 sts (43 sc).

Round 10 – BLO

Sc BLO into next 43 sts (43 sc).

Round 11

Sc into next 16 sts, *inv sc2tog*, rep *.* 5 more times, sc into next 15 sts (37 sc).

Round 12

Sc into next 13 sts, *hdc2tog*, rep *.* 5 more times, sc into next 12 sts (25 sc, 6 hdc).

Round 13

Sc into next 13 sts, fpsc around next 6 sts, sc into next 12 sts (25 sc, 6 fpsc), ss into next st, cut yarn, leaving a tail long enough to attach the shoe to the foot in Part 6.

DRESS

TOP

Make one, worked in rows using colour (E) yarn.

Row 1

Ch 31, sc into 2nd ch from hook, sc into next 29 ch (30 sc), turn work.

Row 2

Ch 1 (does not count as st), sc 2 into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, *sc 2 into next st, sc into next 2 sts*, rep *.* 8 more times (40 sc), turn work.

Row 3

Ch 1 (does not count as st), sc 2 into same sp, sc into next 3 sts, *sc 2 into next st, sc into next 3 sts*, rep *.* 8 more times (50 sc), turn work.

Row 4

Ch 1 (does not count as st), sc 2 into same sp, sc into next 4 sts, *sc 2 into next st, sc into next 4 sts*, rep *.* 8 more times (60 sc), turn work.

Row 5

Ch 1 (does not count as st), sc 2 into same sp, sc into next 5 sts, *sc 2 into next st, sc into next 5 sts*, rep *.* 8 more times (70 sc), turn work.

Row 6

Ch 1 (does not count as st), sc 2 into same sp, sc into next 6 sts, *sc 2 into next st, sc into next 6 sts*, rep *.* 8 more times (80 sc), turn work.

Row 7

Ch 1 (does not count as st), sc 2 into same sp, sc into next 7 sts, *sc 2 into next st, sc into next 7 sts*, rep *.* 8 more times (90 sc), turn work.

Row 8

Ch 1 (does not count as st), sc 2 into same sp, sc into next 8 sts, *sc 2 into next st, sc into next 8 sts*, rep *.* 8 more times (100 sc), turn work.

Row 9

Ch 1 (does not count as st), sc into same sp, sc into next 99 sts (100 sc), turn work.

Row 10

Ch 1 (does not count as st), sc into same sp, sc into next 12 sts, ch 2, sk next 24 sts, sc into next 26 sts, ch 2, sk next 24 sts, sc into next 13 sts (52 sc, 4 ch), turn work.

Row 11

Ch 1 (does not count as st), sc into same sp, sc into next 12 sts, sc into next 2 ch’s, sc into next 26 sts, sc into next 2 ch’s, sc into next 13 sts (56 sc), turn work.

Row 12

Ch 1 (does not count as st), sc into same sp, sc into next 55 sts (56 sc), turn work.

Border

Ch 1 (does not count as st), sc into next 13 rows (down the side), ch 1, sc into 30 ch’s (neck), ch 1, sc into next 13 rows (down the other side), turn work.

Buttonhole row

Ch 1 (does not count as st), sc into same sp, sc into next 9 sts, ch 2, sk next st, sc into next 2 sts (12 sc, ch 2), cut yarn, weave in ends.

SKIRT

Helpful hint: place top with right side facing up, join colour (D) yarn with a slip stitch to 1st st.

Row 1

Ch 1 (does not count as st), sc 2 into same sp, sc into next 56 sts, sc 2 into next st (60 sc), turn work.

Row 2

Ch 1 (does not count as st), sc 2 into same sp, sc into next 3 sts, *sc 2 into next st, sc into next 3 sts*, rep *.* 13 more times (75 sts), turn work.

Rows 3 – 9

Ch 1 (does not count as st), sc into same sp, sc into next 74 sts (75 sc), turn work.

Row 10

Ch 1 (does not count as st), sc 2 into same sp, sc into next 4 sts, *sc 2 into next st, sc into next 4 sts*, rep *.* 13 more times (90 sts), turn work.

Rows 11 – 19

Ch 1 (does not count as st), sc into same sp, sc into next 89 sts (90 sc), turn work.

Row 20

Ch 1 (does not count as st), sc 2 into same sp, sc into next 5 sts, *sc 2 into next st, sc into next 5 sts*, rep *.* 13 more times (105 sts), turn work.

Rows 21 – 25

Ch 1 (does not count as st), sc into same sp, sc into next 104 sts (105 sc), turn work.  At the end of row 25 cut yarn leaving a tail long enough to join the section of the skirt at the back of the dress corresponding with the current colour in Part 6 – DO not join now.

Helpful hint: place top with right side facing up, join colour (C) yarn with a slip stitch to 1st st.

Row 26

Ch 1 (does not count as st), sc 2 into same sp, sc into next 6 sts, *sc 2 into next st, sc into next 6 sts*, rep *.* 13 more times (120 sts), turn work.

Rows 27 – 31

Ch 1 (does not count as st), sc into same sp, sc into next 119 sts (120 sc), turn work. 

FRILL

Row 32

Ch 1 (does not count as st), sc into same sp, ch 3, sc into next st, *sc into next st, ch 3, sc into next st*, rep *.* 58 more times (120 sc, 60 ch 3), cut yarn leaving a tail long enough to join the section of the skirt at the back of the dress corresponding with the current colour in Part 6 – DO not join now.

FLOWER

Make one worked in the round using colour (C) yarn make a magic circle.

Round 1

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc 10 into the mc, ss into 1st st (10 sc), cut yarn leaving a thread long enough to attach the flower to the dress in Part 6.

Round 2

Using colour (E) yarn, join in any single crochet from previous round.

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same sp, *ch 3, sc into next st*, rep *.* 9 more times, sc into next st+ (10 sc, 10 ch 3), ss into 1st st, cut yarn and weave in ends.

POCKET

Make one, worked in rows using colour (E) yarn chain 10.

Row 1

Sc into 2nd ch from hook, sc into next 8 ch (9 sc), turn work.

Rows 2 – 7

Ch 1 (does not count as st) sc into same sp, sc into next 8 sts (9 sc), turn work.  At the end of row 7 cut yarn leaving a tail long enough to attach the pocket to the dress in Part 6.

EGGS

Make as many as you like, worked in the round using colour (B) yarn for CW 1 and colour (A) yarn for CW 2,  make a magic circle.

Round 1

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc 6 into mc (6 sc).

Round 2

*Sc 2 into next st*, rep *.* 5 more times (12 sc).

Round 3

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 2 sts, sc 2 into next st, sc into next st*, rep *.* 1 more time, sc 2 into next st, sc into next st (17 sc).

Round 4

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 3 sts*, rep *.* 3 more times, sc into next st (21 sc).

Round 5

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 6 sts*, rep *.* 2 more times (24 sc).

Round 6

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 7 sts*, rep *.* 2 more times (27 sc).

Round 7

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 8 sts*, rep *.* 2 more times (30 sc).

Round 8

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 14 sts*, rep *.* 1 more time (32 sc).

Round 9

Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 31 (33 sc).

Round 10

Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 32 st (34 sc).

Rounds 11 – 13

Sc into next 34 sts (34 sc).

Round 14

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 15 sts*, rep *.* 1 more time (32 sc).

Round 15

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 8 sts, *inv sc2tog, sc into next 9 sts*, rep *.* 1 more time (29 sc).

Round 16

Inv sc2tog, sc into next 7 sts, *inv sc2tog, sc into next 8 sts*, rep *.* 1 more time (26 sc).

Helpful hint: you can start to add stuffing to the egg and add a bit more after each of the following rows until the egg is nice and firm – do not overstuff.

Round 17

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 6 sts, inv sc2tog, sc into next 7 sts*, rep *.* 1 more time (23 sc).

Round 18

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 5 sts, inv sc2tog, sc into next 6 sts*, rep *.* 1 more time (20 sc).

Round 19

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 4 sts, inv sc2tog, sc into next 5 sts*, rep *.* 1 more time (17 sc).

Round 20

*Inv sc2tog, sc into next 3 sts, inv sc2tog, sc into next 4 sts*, rep *.* 1 more time (14 sc).

Round 21

*Inv sc2tog*, rep *.* 6 more times (7 sc), cut yarn, thread through all 7 sts and pull closed, weave in ends.

FLOWER

Make as many as you like, worked in the round using colour (E) yarn make a magic circle.

Round 1

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc 10 into the mc, ss into 1st st (10 sc).

Round 2

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same sp, *ch 3, sc into next st*, rep *.* 9 more times, sc into next st (10 sc, 10 ch 3), ss into 1st st, cut yarn leaving a tail long enough to attach the flower to the egg in Part 6.

STEMS

In Part 6 we will use colour (C) yarn to embroider the stems onto the egg before attaching the flowers.

BASKET

Make one, working in rounds and then in rows, using colour (F) yarn make a magic circle.

Round 1

Ch 1, sc 6 into mc, place stitch marker in 6th sc and continue to work in the round (6 sc).

Helpful hint: move the stitch marker and place in the last stitch of each row and this will help keep your stitch count correct and help with row counting, and because we are working quite tightly in the round, I weave my beginning tail in whilst working round 2.

Round 2

*Sc 2 into next st*, rep *.*  (12 sc).

Helpful hint: with my patterns, I usually always start with an increase in the 1st stitch, so if your increase stitch falls in the first stitch of the increase stitch from the last row, your stitch should be correct.

Round 3

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next st* rep *.* 5 more times (18 sc)

Round 4

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 2 sts* rep *.* 5 more  times (24 sc).

Round 5

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 3 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (30 sc).

Round 6

Sc into next 30 sts (30 sc).

Round 7

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 4 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (36 sc).

 Rounds 8 – 9

Sc into next 36 sts (36 sc).

Round 10

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 5 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (42 sc).

Round 11

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 6 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (48 sc).

Round 12

*Sc 2 into next st, sc into next 7 sts* rep *.* 5 more times (54 sc).

Round 13 – BLO

Helpful hint: the rest of the basket is worked in rows in the round and not in a continuous spiral.

Ss into next st, ch 2 (does not count as a st), hdc BLO into same sp, hdc BLO into next 53 sts, ss into 1st st (54 hdc).

Rounds 14 – 16

Helpful hint: because we are now working back and front double crochet stitches, I refer to “work around next X stitches”, this is because when we make a back or front post stitch we are working around the post of the stitch from the previous round – have a look at the abbreviations for a full explanation.

Ch 2 (does not count as a st/push to the back), fpdc around 1st from previous row, fpdc around next 2 sts, bpdc around next 3 sts, *fpdc around next 3 sts, bpdc around next 3 sts*, rep *.* 7 more times, ss into 1st st (27 fpdc, 27 bpdc).

Rounds 17 – 19

Ch 2 (does not count as a st/push to the back), bpdc around 1st st from previous row, bpdc around next 2 sts, fpdc around next 3 sts, *bpdc around next 3 sts, fpdc around next 3 sts*, rep *.* 7 more times, ss into 1st st (27 bpdc, 27 fpdc).

Rounds 20 – 22

Ch 2 (does not count as a st/push to the back), fpdc around 1st from previous row, fpdc around next 2 sts, bpdc around next 3 sts, *fpdc over next 3 sts, bpdc around next 3 sts*, rep *.* 7 more times, ss into 1st st (27 fpdc, 27 bpdc).

Rounds 23 – 25

Ch 2 (does not count as a st/push to the back), bpdc around 1st st from previous row, bpdc around next 2 sts, fpdc around next 3 sts, *bpdc around next 3 sts, fpdc around next 3 sts*, rep *.* 7 more times, ss into 1st st (27 bpdc, 27 fpdc).

Round 26

Ch 2 (does not count as a st/push to the back), bphdc into same sp, bphdc into next 53 sts, ss into 1st (54 bphdc).

Round 27

Ch 1 (does not count as a st/push to the back), bpsc into same sp, bpsc into next 53 sts, ss into 1st (54 bpsc).

HANDLE

Rows 28 – 61

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same sp, sc into next 5 sts (6 sc), turn work.  At the end of row 61 cut yarn leaving a tail long enough to use to attach the handle to the basket in Part 6.

BOW FOR BASKET

Make one using colour (C) yarn make a magic circle.

Round 1

Ch 4 (counts as 1st tr), tr 6, ch 4, ss into mc, ch 4, tr 6, ch 4, ss into mc (4 ch 4, 12 tr).  Cut yarn leaving a tail long enough to wrap yarn around middle of the bow 5 times and to attach the bow to the head in Part 6.

MellyGurumi Easter Bunny Part 2

MandMCrochetDesigns | Easter Bunny | #amigurumibunny #amigurumicrochet #freecrochetpattern #crochetbunny #crochetsofttoy #crochetforbabies #crochetforeaster #eastercrochet #vinniscolours #vinnisnikkim #crochetwithcotton

If you would like to purchase the PDF pattern from Ravelry click here.

If you would like to purchase the PDF pattern from Etsy click here.

CLICK HERE TO ADD THIS PATTERN TO YOUR RAVELRY QUEUE

© 2020 |Designed by Melanie Grobler | MandMCrochetDesigns | All Rights are Reserved.

 

The design, pattern, and all images are the property of MandMCrochetDesigns. The purchaser of this pattern may use it for personal use and/or charity.  Sales of the finished items are encouraged, and credit given to the designer would be most appreciated. No part of the written pattern may be reproduced, altered, or distributed in any form, or by any means, without express written permission from Melanie Grobler | MandMCrochetDesigns.

 

 

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