Melly Teddy Ragdoll Harvest Fairy Part 4

is a free crochet along.

The Melly Teddy Ragdoll Harvest Fairy Part 4 is part of a free CAL.

The Melly Teddy Ragdoll Harvest Fairy (part 4) is one of four fairies – she is the first and will be followed by her three sisters during the course of 2021. She was created because I think we all need a little bit of magic in our lives and my little girl is thrilled to be Harvest Fairy’s new mommy. The Ragdoll is a cross between a lovey blanket and a soft toy and perfect to crochet for babies and small children.  Make a super cute Melly Teddy Ragdoll for that special person/s in your life. 

They are fun and easy to make and are soft and snugly, perfect for cuddling and great yarn busters. 

If you would like to purchase the PDF pattern from Ravelry click here.

 

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Melly Teddy Ragdoll Harvest Fairy Part 4

“Share the art within you with the ones you love…”

MandMCrochetDesigns | Melly Teddy Ragdoll Harvest Fairy #crochetforbabies #amigurumi #crochetamigurumi #etsy #ravelry #crochetfairy #harvestfairy #cal #freecrochetpattern #crochetalong #vinniscolours #cottonyarn #yarnized #crochetragdoll #fairycrochet #thanksgiving #crochetthanksgivingfairy

Harvest Fairy Part 4

 

The pattern will be released in 6 parts over 3 weeks and you can get each part separately FOR FREE with the Crochet Along.

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Melly Teddy Ragdoll Harvest Fairy Part 4:

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MandMCrochetDesigns | Melly Teddy Ragdoll Harvest Fairy #crochetforbabies #amigurumi #crochetamigurumi #etsy #ravelry #crochetfairy #harvestfairy #cal #freecrochetpattern #crochetalong #vinniscolours #cottonyarn #yarnized #crochetragdoll #fairycrochet #thanksgiving #crochetthanksgivingfairy

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PATTERN – MELLY TEDDY RAGDOLL HARVEST FAIRY PART 4

Helpful hint: the wings are worked with thin copper wire (1 mm) when the last row of the border is worked.  If you prefer you can use sugar water or starch to stiffen the wings, you could also attach the wings to the back of the sleeves if you prefer.  I purchased the wire at my local hardware store, you can also get at an art supply store or even your local nursery (as bonsai enthusiasts use it to wire the branches).

WINGS

Make wing 1 & 2, worked in rows using colour (A) yarn.

Helpful hint: I used a thin copper wire (1 mm) to give my wings more shape, however if you do not want to do this you can use pipe cleaners, sturdy string, or even starch the wings – it is up to you.

WING 1

Row 1

Ch 11, sc into 2nd ch from hook sc into next 8 ch, 3 sc into last ch, then work on the other side of the ch’s, sc into next 8 ch, sc 2 into last ch, ss into 1st st (22 sc).

Row 2

Ss into next st, ch 4 (counts as 1st dc and ch), dc into same sp, ch 4, sk 4, (dc, ch, dc) into next st, ch 2, sk 1, (dc, ch, dc) into next st, turn work (6 dc, 9 ch)

Row 3

Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc 4 into ch sp, ch 2, dc 3 into ch sp, ch 2, dc 3 into ch sp, ch 2, dc 5 into ch sp, ch 2, dc 5 into ch sp, turn work (21 dc, 8 ch).

Row 4

Ch 1, sc into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, ss into next st, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, 3 dc into next st, ch 2, [dc, ch] into next 5 sts, ch 1, sk st, dc 3 into next st, sk st, ch 2, [dc, ch] into next 3 sts, ch 1, dc 3 into next st, dc 2 into next st, turn work (3 sc, 21 dc, 14 ch).

Row 5

Ch 1, sc into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, ss into next st, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, 3 dc into next st, ch 2, [dc, ch, dc] into next 3 sts (sk ch sps), ch 2, sk st, dc 3 into next st, sk st, ch 2, [dc, ch, dc] into next 5 sts, (sk ch sps), ch 2, dc 3 into next st, dc 2 into next st, turn work (3 sc, 29 dc, 16 ch).

Row 6

Ch 1, sc into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, ss into next st, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, 3 dc into next st, ch 2, [dc, ch, dc] into next 5 ch sps (sk dc sts), ch 2, sk st, dc 3 into next st, sk st, ch 2, [dc, ch, dc] into next 3 ch sps (sk dc sts), ch 2, dc 3 into next st [IMPORTANT: place a stitch marker 1st dc of the 3 dc sts just made], dc 2 into next st, turn work (3 sc, 29 dc, 16 ch).

Helpful hint: we are going to separate the wings now working on the bottom of the wing first.

Row 7

Ch 1, sc into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, ss into next st, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, 3 dc into next st, ch 2, [dc, ch, dc] into next 3 ch sps (sk dc sts), ch 2, dc 3 into next st, turn work (3 sc, 14 dc, 7 ch).

Row 8

Ch 1, sc into same sp, ss into next st, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, 3 dc into next st, ch 2, [dc, ch, dc] into next 3 ch sps (sk dc sts), ch 2, 3 dc into next st, 2 dc into next st, turn work (1 sc, 16 dc, 7 ch).

Row 9

Ch 1, sc into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, ss into next st, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, 3 dc into next st, ch 2,

[dc, ch, dc] into next 3 ch sps (sk dc sts), ch 2, 3 dc into next st, 2 dc into next st, turn work (3 sc, 16 dc, 7 ch).

Row 10

Ch 1, sc into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, ss into next st, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, 3 dc into next st, ch 2, sk next [dc, ch dc], then [dc, ch, dc] into the space between the v’s, sk next [dc, ch dc], then [dc, ch, dc] into the space between the v’s, ch 2, 3 dc into next st, 2 dc into next st, turn work (3 sc, 14 dc, 6 ch).

Row 11

Ch 1, sc into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, ss into next st, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, 3 dc into next st, ch 2,

Sk next [dc, ch, dc], then [dc, ch dc] into the space between the v’s, sk next [dc, ch, dc], ch 2, 3 dc into next st, 2 dc into next st, turn work (3 sc, 12 dc, 5 ch).

Row 12

Ch 1, sc into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, ss into next st, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, 3 dc into next st, 3dc into ch 1 sp (between v), 3 dc into next st, 2 dc into next st, turn work (3 sc, 13 dc).

Row 13

Ch 1, sc into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, ss into next st, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, 3 dc into next st, sk next 3 sts, 3 dc into next st, 2 dc into next st, cut yarn, weave in ends.

Helpful hint: bear in mind when weaving in that you weave in as invisibly as possible because the wings will be seen from both sides when attached to the ragdoll.

Helpful hint: we are now starting on the top part of the wing, so re-join the yarn in row 6 where you placed your stitch marker.

Row 14

3 Dc’s into dc where you placed the stitch marker, ch 2, [dc, ch, dc] into next 5 ch sps (sk dc sts), ch 2, 3 dc into next st, 2 dc into next st, turn work (18 dc, 9 ch).

Row 15

Ch 1, sc into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, ss into next st, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, 3 dc into next st, ch 2, [dc, ch, dc] into next 5 ch sps (sk dc sts), ch 2, 3 dc into next st, 2 dc into next st, turn work (3 sc, 20 dc, 9 ch).

Row 16

Ch 1, sc into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, ss into next st, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, 3 dc into next st, ch 2, [dc, ch, dc] into next 5 ch sps (sk dc sts), ch 2, 3 dc into next st, 2 dc into next st, turn work (3 sc, 20 dc, 9 ch).

Row 17

Ch 1, sc into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, ss into next st, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, 3 dc into next st, ch 2,

*Sk next [dc, ch, dc], then [dc, ch dc] into the space between the v’s*, rep *.* 3 more times, ch 2, 3 dc into next st, 2 dc into next st, turn work (3 sc, 18 dc, 8 ch).

Row 18

Ch 1, sc into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, ss into next st, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, 3 dc into next st, ch 2,

*[dc, ch dc] into next ch sp, (sk dc sts)*, rep *.* 3 more times, ch 2, 3 dc into next st, 2 dc into next st, turn work (3 sc, 18 dc, 8 ch).

Row 19

Ch 1, sc into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, ss into next st, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, 3 dc into next st, ch 2,

*Sk next [dc, ch, dc], then [dc, ch dc] into the space between the v’s*, rep *.* 2 more times, ch 2, 3 dc into next st, 2 dc into next st, turn work (3 sc, 16 dc, 7 ch).

Row 20

Ch 1, sc into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, ss into next st, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, 3 dc into next st, ch 2,

*[dc, ch, dc] into next ch sp (sk dc sts)* rep *.* 2 more times, ch 2, 3 dc into next st, 2 dc into next st, turn work (3 sc, 16 dc, 7 ch).

Row 21

Ch 1, sc into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, ss into next st, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, 3 dc into next st, ch 2,

*Sk next [dc, ch, dc], then [dc, ch dc] into the space between the v’s*, rep *.* 1 more time, ch 2, 3 dc into next st, 2 dc into next st, turn work (3 sc, 14 dc, 6 ch).

Row 22

Ch 1, sc into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, ss into next st, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, 3 dc into next st, ch 2,

*[dc, ch, dc] into next ch sp (sk dc sts)* rep *.* 1 more time, ch 2, 3 dc into next st, 2 dc into next st, turn work (3 sc, 14 dc, 6 ch).

Row 23

Ch 1, sc into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, ss into next st, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, 3 dc into next st, ch 2,

Sk next [dc, ch, dc], then [dc, ch dc] into the space between the v’s, sk next [dc, ch, dc], ch 2, 3 dc into next st, 2 dc into next st, turn work (3 sc, 12 dc, 5 ch).

Row 24

Ch 1, sc into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, ss into next st, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, 3 dc into next st, 3 dc into ch 1 sp (between v), 3 dc into next st, 2 dc into next st, turn work (3 sc, 13 dc).

Row 25

Ch 1, sc into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, ss into next st, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, 3 dc into next st, sk next 3 sts, 3 dc into next st, 2 dc into next st (10 dc), cut yarn, weave in ends.

Helpful hint: bear in mind when weaving in that you weave in as invisibly as possible because the wings will be seen from both sides when attached to the ragdoll.

Helpful hint: at the end of making wing 1 place a number on it so that you do not get confused when we attach them to the body in Part 6.

BORDER WING 1

With front side of the wing facing, re-join colour (A) yarn to the centre sc in row 1 (at the point of the row).

Helpful hint: you will know which side is the front by looking at the stitches from the first row (row 1), the right side should be facing you.

Row 1 – refer to photo for help

Helpful hint: where I refer to a corner, I am referring to either the top of the turning chain OR the single crochet made on top of the last double crochet – forming a “point”.

Ch 1, sc into same sp, *ch 2, sc into next “corner”*, rep *.* until you reach the top of the wing, ch 2, sc into next 10 sts, *ch 2, sc into next “corner”*, rep *.* around the second part of the wing until you reach row 1 again (on the opposite side of the wing/row 1), ch 2, sc into the centre sc from row 1, cut yarn, weave in ends – DO NOT TURN WORK.

Helpful hint: use a thin copper wire to make your wings shape sturdier by including the wire when making the next row.

With front side/same side of the wing facing, re-join colour (A) yarn to the 1st sc made in border wing row 1.

Row 2 – refer to photo for help

Ch 1, sc into same sp, *sc 2 around wire AND ch 2 sp, sc into next sc st from previous row*, rep *.* until you reach the top of the wing, sc 2 around wire AND ch 2 sp, sc into next 10 sc sts, *sc around wire AND ch 2 sp, sc into next sc st*, rep *.* around the second part of the wing until you reach row 1 again (on the opposite side of the wing/row 1), sc around wire AND ch 2 sp, sc into next sc st, cut yarn, weave in ends.

Optional row

I used a thin gold thread and with the right side of the wing facing I slip stitched around the entire outside of the wing.

Helpful hint: this wing will be the wing on your left when the doll is facing upwards (and right when the doll is facing downwards).

WING 2

Row 1

Ch 11, sc into 2nd ch from hook sc into next 8 ch, 3 sc into last ch, then work on the other side of the ch’s, sc into next 8 ch, sc 2 into last ch, ss into 1st st (22 sc).

Row 2

Ss into next st, ch 4 (counts as 1st dc and ch), dc into same sp, ch 2, sk 1, (dc, ch, dc) into next st, ch 4, sk 4, (dc, ch, dc) into next st, turn work (6 dc, 9 ch)

Row 3

Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc 4 into ch sp, ch 2, dc 5 into ch sp, ch 2, dc 3 into ch sp, ch 2, dc 3 into ch sp, ch 2, dc 5 into ch sp, turn work (21 dc, 8 ch).

Row 4

Ch 1, sc into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, ss into next st, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, 3 dc into next st, ch 2, [dc, ch] into next 3 sts, ch 1, sk st, dc 3 into next st, sk st, ch 2, [dc, ch] into next 5 sts, ch 1, dc 3 into next st, dc 2 into next st, turn work (3 sc, 21 dc, 14 ch).

Row 5

Ch 1, sc into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, ss into next st, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, 3 dc into next st, ch 2, [dc, ch, dc] into next 5 sts (sk ch sps), ch 2, sk st, dc 3 into next st, sk st, ch 2, [dc, ch, dc] into next 3 sts, (sk ch sps), ch 2, dc 3 into next st, dc 2 into next st, turn work (3 sc, 29 dc, 16 ch).

Row 6

Ch 1, sc into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, ss into next st, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, 3 dc into next st, ch 2, [dc, ch, dc] into next 3 ch sps (sk dc sts), ch 2, sk st, dc 3 into next st, sk st, ch 2, [dc, ch, dc] into next 5 ch sps (sk dc sts), ch 2, dc 3 into next st [IMPORTANT: place a stitch marker 3rd dc of the 3 dc sts just made], dc 2 into next st, turn work (3 sc, 29 dc, 16 ch).

Helpful hint: we are going to separate the wings now working on the top of the wing first.

Row 7

Ch 1, sc into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, ss into next st, ch 3, dc into same sp, ch 2, [dc, ch, dc] into next 5 ch sps (sk dc sts), ch 2, 3 dc into next st, 2 dc into next st, turn work (18 dc, 9 ch).

Row 8

Ch 1, sc into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, ss into next st, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, 3 dc into next st, ch 2, [dc, ch, dc] into next 5 ch sps (sk dc sts), ch 2, 3 dc into next st, 2 dc into next st, turn work (1 sc, 20 dc, 9 ch).

Row 9

Ch 1, sc into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, ss into next st, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, 3 dc into next st, ch 2, [dc, ch, dc] into next 5 ch sps (sk dc sts), ch 2, 3 dc into next st, 2 dc into next st, turn work (3 sc, 20 dc, 9 ch).

Row 10

Ch 1, sc into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, ss into next st, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, 3 dc into next st, ch 2,

*Sk next [dc, ch, dc], then [dc, ch dc] into the space between the v’s*, rep *.* 3 more times, ch 2, 3 dc into next st, 2 dc into next st, turn work (3 sc, 18 dc, 8 ch).

Row 11

Ch 1, sc into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, ss into next st, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, 3 dc into next st, ch 2,

*[dc, ch dc] into the ch sps (v’s)*, rep *.* 3 more times, ch 2, 3 dc into next st, 2 dc into next st, turn work (3 sc, 18 dc, 8 ch).

Row 12

Ch 1, sc into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, ss into next st, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, 3 dc into next st, ch 2,

*Sk next [dc, ch, dc], then [dc, ch dc] into the space between the v’s*, rep *.* 2 more times, ch 2, 3 dc into next st, 2 dc into next st, turn work (3 sc, 16 dc, 7 ch).

Row 13

Ch 1, sc into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, ss into next st, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, 3 dc into next st, ch 2,

*[dc, ch, dc] into next ch sp (sk dc sts)* rep *.* 2 more times, ch 2, 3 dc into next st, 2 dc into next st, turn work (3 sc, 16 dc, 7 ch).

Row 14

Ch 1, sc into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, ss into next st, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, 3 dc into next st, ch 2,

*Sk next [dc, ch, dc], then [dc, ch dc] into the space between the v’s*, rep *.* 1 more time, ch 2, 3 dc into next st, 2 dc into next st, turn work (3 sc, 14 dc, 6 ch).

Row 15

Ch 1, sc into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, ss into next st, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, 3 dc into next st, ch 2,

*[dc, ch, dc] into next ch sp (sk dc sts)* rep *.* 1 more time, ch 2, 3 dc into next st, 2 dc into next st, turn work (3 sc, 14 dc, 7 ch).

Row 16

Ch 1, sc into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, ss into next st, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, 3 dc into next st, ch 2,

Sk next [dc, ch, dc], then [dc, ch dc] into the space between the v’s, sk next [dc, ch, dc], ch 2, 3 dc into next st, 2 dc into next st, turn work (3 sc, 12 dc, 5 ch).

Row 17

Ch 1, sc into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, ss into next st, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, 3 dc into next st, 3 dc into ch 1 sp (between v), 3 dc into next st, 2 dc into next st, turn work (3 sc, 13 dc).

Row 18

Ch 1, sc into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, ss into next st, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, 3 dc into next st, sk next 3 sts, 3 dc into next st, 2 dc into next st, cut yarn, weave in ends.

Helpful hint: bear in mind when weaving in that you weave in as invisibly as possible because the wings will be seen from both sides when attached to the ragdoll.

Helpful hint: we are now starting on the top part of the wing, so re-join the yarn in row 6 where you placed your stitch marker.

Row 19

Sc into 1st st, sc into next 2 sts, ss into next st, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, 3 dc into next st, ch 2, [dc, ch, dc] into next 3 ch sps (sk dc sts), ch 2, dc 3 into next st, turn work (3 sc, 14 dc, 7 ch).

Row 20

Ch 1, sc into same sp, ss into next st, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, 3 dc into next st, ch 2, [dc, ch, dc] into next 3 ch sps (sk dc sts), ch 2, 3 dc into next st, 2 dc into next st, turn work (1 sc, 16 dc, 7 ch).

Row 21

Ch 1, sc into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, ss into next st, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, 3 dc into next st, ch 2,

[dc, ch, dc] into next 3 ch sps (sk dc sts), ch 2, 3 dc into next st, 2 dc into next st, turn work (3 sc, 16 dc, 7 ch).

Row 22

Ch 1, sc into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, ss into next st, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, 3 dc into next st, ch 2, sk next [dc, ch dc], then [dc, ch, dc] into the space between the v’s, ch 2, 3 dc into next st, 2 dc into next st, turn work (3 sc, 14 dc, 6 ch).

Row 23

Ch 1, sc into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, ss into next st, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, 3 dc into next st, ch 2,

*[dc, ch dc] into next ch sp*, rep *.* 1 more time, ch 2, 3 dc into next st, 2 dc into next st, turn work (3 sc, 12 dc, 5 ch).

Row 24

Ch 1, sc into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, ss into next st, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, 3 dc into next st, 3dc into ch 1 sp (between v), 3 dc into next st, 2 dc into next st, turn work (3 sc, 13 dc).

Row 25

Ch 1, sc into same sp, sc into next 2 sts, ss into next st, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc into same sp, 3 dc into next st, sk next 3 sts, 3 dc into next st, 2 dc into next st, cut yarn, weave in ends.

Helpful hint: bear in mind when weaving in that you weave in as invisibly as possible because the wings will be seen from both sides when attached to the ragdoll.

Helpful hint: at the end of making wing 2 place a number on it so that you do not get confused when we attach them to the body in Part 6.

BORDER WING 2

With front side of the wing facing, re-join colour (A) yarn to the centre sc in row 1 (at the point of the row).

Helpful hint: you will know which side is the front by looking at the stitches from the first row (row 1), the right side should be facing you.

Row 1 – refer to photo for help

Helpful hint: where I refer to a corner, I am referring to either the top of the turning chain OR the single crochet made on top of the last double crochet – forming a “point”.

Ch 1, sc into same sp, *ch 2, sc into next “corner”*, rep *.* until you reach the top of the wing, ch 2, sc into next 10 sts, *ch 2, sc into next “corner”*, rep *.* around the second part of the wing until you reach row 1 again (on the opposite side of the wing/row 1), ch 2, sc into the centre sc from row 1, cut yarn, weave in ends – DO NOT TURN WORK.

Helpful hint: use a thin copper wire to make your wings shape sturdier by including the wire when making the next row.

With front side/same side of the wing facing, re-join colour (A) yarn to the 1st sc made in border wing row 1.

Row 2 – refer to photo for help

Ch 1, sc into same sp, *sc 2 around wire AND ch 2 sp, sc into next sc st from previous row*, rep *.* until you reach the top of the wing, sc 2 around wire AND ch 2 sp, sc into next 10 sc sts, *sc around wire AND ch 2 sp, sc into next sc st*, rep *.* around the second part of the wing until you reach row 1 again (on the opposite side of the wing/row 1), sc around wire AND ch 2 sp, sc into next sc st, cut yarn, weave in ends.

Optional row

I used a thin gold thread and with the right side of the wing facing I slip stitched around the entire outside of the wing.

Helpful hint: this wing will be the wing on your left when the doll is facing upwards (and right when the doll is facing downwards).

MandMCrochetDesigns | Melly Teddy Ragdoll Harvest Fairy #crochetforbabies #amigurumi #crochetamigurumi #etsy #ravelry #crochetfairy #harvestfairy #cal #freecrochetpattern #crochetalong #vinniscolours #cottonyarn #yarnized #crochetragdoll #fairycrochet #thanksgiving #crochetthanksgivingfairy

Melly Teddy Ragdoll Harvest Fairy Part 4

If you would like to join my Face Book Group click HERE and enjoy the fun of crocheting something with others from all over the world.

If you would like to purchase the PDF pattern from Ravelry click here.

 

If you would like to purchase the PDF pattern from Etsy click here.

MandMCrochetDesigns | Melly Teddy Ragdoll Harvest Fairy #crochetforbabies #amigurumi #crochetamigurumi #etsy #ravelry #crochetfairy #harvestfairy #cal #freecrochetpattern #crochetalong #vinniscolours #cottonyarn #yarnized #crochetragdoll #fairycrochet #thanksgiving #crochetthanksgivingfairy

Melly Teddy Ragdoll Harvest Fairy Part 4

© 2020 |Designed by Melanie Grobler | MandMCrochetDesigns | All Rights are Reserved.

The design, pattern, and all images are the property of MandMCrochetDesigns. The purchaser of this pattern may use it for personal use and/or charity.  Sales of the finished items are encouraged, and credit given to the designer would be most appreciated. No part of the written pattern may be reproduced, altered, or distributed in any form, or by any means, without express written permission from Melanie Grobler | MandMCrochetDesigns.