MandMCrochetDesigns | Melly Teddy Ragdoll Bonnie and Clyde Horse #crochetforbabies #amagarumi #crochethorse #cal #freecrochetpattern #crochetalong #vinniscolours #cottonyarn #nikkim #yarnized #crochetlovey #crochetsofttoy #crochetanimal

Melly Teddy Ragdoll Bonnie & Clyde Horse Part 3

Melly Teddy Ragdoll Bonnie & Clyde Horse Part 3

is part of a free crochet along.

The Melly Teddy Ragdoll Bonnie & Clyde Horse Part 3 is part of a CAL and is a fabulous cross between a lovey blanket and a soft toy and perfect to crochet for babies and small children.  Make a super cute Melly Teddy Ragdoll Bonnie & Clyde Horse for that special small person in your life.  They are fun and easy to make and are soft and snugly, perfect for cuddling and great yarn busters. 

 

 “Grab your partner, dosey doe, swing them ’round and don’t let go!”

If you would like to purchase the PDF pattern click here.

BONNIE & CLYDE HORSE PART 3

MandMCrochetDesigns | Melly Teddy Ragdoll Bonnie and Clyde Horse #crochetforbabies #amagarumi #crochethorse #cal #freecrochetpattern #crochetalong #vinniscolours #cottonyarn #nikkim #yarnized #crochetlovey #crochetsofttoy #crochetanimal

 

“Share the art within you with the ones you love…”

The pattern will be released in 6 parts over 3 weeks and you can get each part separately FOR FREE with the Crochet Along.

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Let’s paint with yarn….

MandMCrochetDesigns | Melly Teddy Ragdoll Bonnie and Clyde Horse #crochetforbabies #amagarumi #crochethorse #cal #freecrochetpattern #crochetalong #vinniscolours #cottonyarn #nikkim #yarnized #crochetlovey #crochetsofttoy #crochetanimal

BONNIE & CLYDE HORSE PART 3

 

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THE CAL:

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FOR INFORMATION ABOUT THE MATERIALS USED:

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WANT TO USE THE SAME YARN AS ME?

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If you want to purchase a cotton alternative to the yarn I am using click here.

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PATTERN – BONNIE & CLYDE HORSE PART 3

 

BODY – BAY/CLYDE/BOY

Not stuffed, make one.  Using colour (B) yarn chain 32 and ss into the first chain to make a ring.

Helpful hint: work into the outside loop of the chain for this round, we will use the inside loop of the chain later when we are finished with the body – see photos if you are unsure.

Helpful hint: the chain 1 at the beginning of each row does not count as a stitch, but it is important to make the chain 1, and you will see why as we go along – it makes a nice straight seam – make the chain 1 loose otherwise the seam will “pull” up on this side.

Round 1

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same ch, dc 14, 3 dc into next ch, dc 15, 3 dc into next ch, ss into 1st dc (36 dc).

Round 2

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same st, dc 16, 2 dc into next st, dc 17, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (38 dc).

Round 3

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same st, dc 17, 2 dc into next st, dc 18, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (40 dc).

Round 4

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same st, dc 18, 2 dc into next st, dc 19, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (42 dc).

Round 5

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same st, dc 19, 2 dc into next st, dc 20, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (44 dc).

Round 6

Ch 1, (does not count as a st), dc into same st, dc 20, 2 dc into next st, dc 21, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (46 dc).

Round 7

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same st, dc 21, 2 dc into next st, dc 22, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (48 dc).

Round 8

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same st, dc 22, 2 dc into next st, dc 23, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc, cut yarn, weave in ends (50 dc).

Helpful hint: change to colour (D).

Round 9

Join new yarn with a ss, ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same st, dc 23, 2 dc into next st, dc 24, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (52 dc).

Round 10

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same st, dc 24, 2 dc into next st, dc 25, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (54 dc).

Round 11

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same st, dc 25, 2 dc into next st, dc 26, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (56 dc).

Round 12

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same st, dc 26, 2 dc into next st, dc 27, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (58 dc).

Round 13

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same st, dc 27, 2 dc into next st, dc 28, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (60 dc).

Round 14

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same st, dc 28, 2 dc into next st, dc 29, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (62 dc).

Round 15

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same st, dc 29, 2 dc into next st, dc 30, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (64 dc).

Round 16

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same st, dc 30, 2 dc into next st, dc 31, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (66 dc).

Round 17

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same st, dc 31, 2 dc into next st, dc 32, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (68 dc).

Round 18

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same st, dc 32, 2 dc into next st, dc 33, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (70 dc).

First Leg

Round 19

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same st, dc 13, skip 42, dc 14, ss into 1st dc (28 dc).

Round 20

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same st, dc 27, ss into 1st dc (28 dc).

Rounds 21 – 24

Repeat round 20 (28 dc).

Round 25

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same st, sc 27, ss into 1st st, cut yarn leaving a long tail to use to attach the hind leg to the body in Part 6.

Second Leg

Helpful hint: skip 7 stitches from round 18 after the first leg, join yarn colour (D) to the 8th double crochet with a slip stitch.  The 1st leg is on the right, then count 7 stitches and start the 2nd leg in the 8th stitch along the bottom of the dungarees – leave the “hole” open, as we will stitch it together in Part 6.

Round 19

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same st, dc 27, ss into 1st dc (28 dc).

Rounds 20 – 24

Repeat round 19 (28 dc).

Round 25

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same st, sc 27, ss into 1st st, cut yarn leaving a long tail to use to attach the hind leg to the body in Part 6.

Bib of Dungarees

Row 1

Using colour (D) start with a standing fpdc over the 6th dc from the 1st row of colour (B) of body, fpdc into next 13 sts, ch 1, TURN WORK (14) – you should have 5 sts left until the next edge of the front of the body.

Row 2

Ch 1, sc into same st, sc into next 13 sts, TURN WORK (14 sc).

Row 3

Ch 2 (counts as 1st dc), dc into next 13 sts, TURN WORK (14 dc).

Row 4

Ch 1, sc into same st, sc into next 13 sts (last sc goes into top ch from ch 2), TURN WORK (14 sc).

Row 5

Ch 2 (counts as 1st dc), dc into next 13 sts, TURN WORK (14 dc).

Row 6

Ch 1, sc into same st, sc into next 13 sts (last sc goes into top ch from ch 2), TURN WORK (14 sc).

Row 7

Ch 2 (counts as 1st dc), dc into next 13 sts, TURN WORK (14 dc).

Row 8

Ch 1, sc into same st, sc into next 13 sts (last sc goes into top ch from ch 2), TURN WORK (14 sc).

First Strap

Helpful hint:  if you think the strap is too long or too short, just add or decrease the number of rows to fit your tension.

Row 9

Ch 1, sc into same st, sc into next 2 sts, TURN WORK (3 sc).

Rows 10 – 29

Repeat row 9 (3 sc).

Row 30

Ch 1, sc into same st, sc into next 2 sts (3 sc), cut yarn, leave a long tail to stitch the straps to the body in Part 6.

Second Strap

Row 9

Skip 8 sts, start with a standing sc into the 11th st and sc into next 2 sts, TURN WORK (3 sc).

Row 10

Ch 1, sc into same st, sc into next 2 sts, TURN WORK (3 sc).

Rows 11 – 29

Repeat row 10 (3 sc).

Row 30

Ch 1, sc into same st, sc into next 2 sts (3 sc), cut yarn, leave a long tail to stitch the straps to the body in Part 6.

 

 

 

BODY – CHESTNUT/BONNIE/GIRL

Not stuffed, make one.  Using colour (B) yarn chain 32 and ss into the first chain to make a ring.

Helpful hint: work into the outside loop of the chain for this round, we will use the inside loop of the chain later when we are finished with the body – see photos if you are unsure.

Helpful hint: the chain 1 at the beginning of each row does not count as a stitch, but it is important to make the chain 1, and you will see why as we go along – it makes a nice straight seam – make the chain 1 loose otherwise the seam will “pull” up on this side.

Round 1

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same ch, dc 14, 3 dc into next ch, dc 15, 3 dc into next ch, ss into 1st dc (36 dc).

Round 2

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same st, dc 16, 2 dc into next st, dc 17, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (38 dc).

Round 3

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same st, dc 17, 2 dc into next st, dc 18, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (40 dc).

Round 4

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same st, dc 18, 2 dc into next st, dc 19, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (42 dc).

Round 5

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same st, dc 19, 2 dc into next st, dc 20, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (44 dc).

Round 6

Ch 1, (does not count as a st), dc into same st, dc 20, 2 dc into next st, dc 21, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (46 dc).

Round 7

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same st, dc 21, 2 dc into next st, dc 22, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (48 dc).

Round 8

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same st, dc 22, 2 dc into next st, dc 23, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc, cut yarn, weave in ends (50 dc).

Helpful hint: change to colour (D).

Round 9

Join new yarn with a ss, ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same st, dc 23, 2 dc into next st, dc 24, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (52 dc).

Round 10

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same st, dc 24, 2 dc into next st, dc 25, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (54 dc).

Round 11

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same st, dc 25, 2 dc into next st, dc 26, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (56 dc).

Round 12

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same st, dc 26, 2 dc into next st, dc 27, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (58 dc).

Round 13

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same st, dc 27, 2 dc into next st, dc 28, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (60 dc).

Round 14

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same st, dc 28, 2 dc into next st, dc 29, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (62 dc).

Round 15

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same st, dc 29, 2 dc into next st, dc 30, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (64 dc).

Round 16

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same st, dc 30, 2 dc into next st, dc 31, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (66 dc).

Round 17

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same st, dc 31, 2 dc into next st, dc 32, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (68 dc).

Round 18

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same st, dc 32, 2 dc into next st, dc 33, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (70 dc).

FIRST LEG

Round 19

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same st, dc 13, skip 42, dc 14, ss into 1st dc (28 dc).

Round 20

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same st, dc 27, ss into 1st dc (28 dc).

Rounds 21 – 22

Repeat round 20 (28 dc).

Helpful hint: change to colour (E).

Round 23

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same st, sc 27, ss into 1st st (28 sc).

Round 24

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same st, sc 27, ss into 1st st (28 sc).

Round 25

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same st, sk st, 5 dc shell into next st, *sk st, sc into next st, sk st, 5 dc shell into next st*, rep *.* 6 more times, sk st, ss into 1st st, ss until you get to the 3rd dc from 1st shell (8 shells, 8 sc).

Round 26

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same st, 5 dc shell into sc from previous round, *sc into 3rd dc from shell in previous round, 5 dc shell into sc from previous round*, rep *.* 6 more times, ss into next st, cut yarn leaving a long tail to use to attach the hind leg to the body in Part 6.

Second Leg

Helpful hint: skip 7 stitches from round 18 after the first leg, join yarn (D) to the 8th double crochet with a slip stitch.  The 1st leg is on the right, then count 7 stitches and start the 2nd leg in the 8th stitch along the bottom of the dungarees – leave the “hole” open, as we will stitch it together in Part 6.

Round 19

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc into same st, dc 27, ss into 1st dc (28 dc).

Rounds 20 – 22

Repeat round 19 (28 dc).

Helpful hint: change to colour (E).

Round 23

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same st, sc 27, ss into 1st st (28 sc).

Round 24

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same st, sc 27, ss into 1st st (28 sc).

Round 25

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same st, sk st, 5 dc shell into next st, *sk st, sc into next st, sk st, 5 dc shell into next st*, rep *.* 6 more times, sk st, ss into 1st st, ss until you get to the 3rd dc from 1st shell (8 shells, 8 sc).

Round 26

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same st, 5 dc shell into sc from previous round, *sc into 3rd dc from shell in previous round, 5 dc shell into sc from previous round*, rep *.* 6 more times, ss into next st, cut yarn leaving a long tail to use to attach the hind leg to the body in Part 6.

Bib of Dungarees

Row 1

Using colour (D)  yarn start with a standing fpdc over the 6th dc from the 1st row of colour (B) of body, fpdc into next 13 sts, ch 1, TURN WORK (14) – you should have 5 sts left until the next edge of the front of the body.

Row 2

Ch 1, sc into same st, sc into next 13 sts, TURN WORK (14 sc).

Row 3

Ch 2 (counts as 1st dc), dc into next 13 sts, TURN WORK (14 dc).

Row 4

Ch 1, sc into same st, sc into next 13 sts (last sc goes into top ch from ch 2), TURN WORK (14 sc).

Row 5

Ch 2 (counts as 1st dc), dc into next 13 sts, TURN WORK (14 dc).

Row 6

Ch 1, sc into same st, sc into next 13 sts (last sc goes into top ch from ch 2), TURN WORK (14 sc).

Row 7

Ch 2 (counts as 1st dc), dc into next 13 sts, TURN WORK (14 dc).

Row 8

Ch 1, sc into same st, sc into next 13 sts (last sc goes into top ch from ch 2) (14 sc), cut yarn, leaving long tail to use to attach the bib to the body in Part 6.

First Strap

Helpful hint: the straps are worked from the back of the dungarees for the GIRL.

Helpful hint:  if you think the strap is too long or too short, just add or decrease the number of rows to fit your tension.

Row 9

Using colour (D) start with a standing fpdc around the 5th dc from the left side of the 1st row of colour (B) of body, fpdc around the next 2 sts

Row 10

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same st, sc into next 2 sts, TURN WORK (3 sc).

Row 11

Ch 2 (counts as 1st dc), dc into next 2 sts, TURN WORK (3 dc).

Rows 12 – 29

Repeat row 10 and 11 (ending with a dc row) (3 dc / 3 sc).

Row 30

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same st, sc into next 2 sts (3 sc), cut yarn, leave a long tail to stitch the straps to the body in Part 6.

Second Strap

Helpful hint: when you start with the second strap, skip 11 sts, starting row 9 around the 19th st.

Row 9

Using colour (D) start with a standing fpdc around the 19th dc from the left side of the 1st row of colour (B) of body, fpdc around the next 2 sts.

Row 10

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same st, sc into next 2 sts, TURN WORK (3 sc).

Row 11

Ch 2 (counts as 1st dc), dc into next 2 sts, TURN WORK (3 dc).

Rows 12 – 29

Repeat row 10 and 11 (ending with a dc row) (3 dc / 3 sc).

Row 30

Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc into same st, sc into next 2 sts (3 sc), cut yarn, leave a long tail to stitch the straps to the body in Part 6.

Neck – Both

Using colour (B) join yarn to round 1 of the body with a slip stitch.

Helpful hint: join yarn at one side of the neck at the top of the opening (where we are going to attach the head).

Round 1

Ch 1, sc into same st, sc 31 along the neck ch, ss into 1st sc (32 sc).

Round 2

Ch 1, *sc2tog, sc into next 2 sts*, rep *.* 7 more times (24 sc), ss the opening of the neck closed, making sure the body is flat, cut yarn leaving a long tail to stitch the neck together when we join the head to the body in Part 6.

TAIL – BOTH

Make one, using colour (A) yarn for the BOY and colour (B) yarn for the GIRL.

  • Cut 15 strands 40 cm each, place them all together, fold them in half and then insert your hook under a stitch on the body (where you would imagine the horse’s bum is 😊) about 14 sts from either side of the pants.
  • Use your hook to catch all the yarn strands together and pull through one side, then you can make a tassel tail, or you can plait the tail like some of the photos below.
  • I did a bit of a weave and then left the rest of the tail loose – you can use a strand of yarn to wind around the end of the plaited section a few times, and then make a tight knot and secure the ends in, and then trim the tail to the length you would like.

 

 

MandMCrochetDesigns | Melly Teddy Ragdoll Bonnie and Clyde Horse #crochetforbabies #amagarumi #crochethorse #cal #freecrochetpattern #crochetalong #vinniscolours #cottonyarn #nikkim #yarnized #crochetlovey #crochetsofttoy #crochetanimal

BONNIE & CLYDE HORSE PART 3

If you would like to purchase the PDF pattern click here.

If you would like to join my Face Book Group click HERE and enjoy the fun of crocheting something with others from all over the world.

CLICK HERE TO ADD THIS PATTERN TO YOUR RAVELRY QUEUE

 

MandMCrochetDesigns | Melly Teddy Ragdoll Bonnie and Clyde Horse #crochetforbabies #amagarumi #crochethorse #cal #freecrochetpattern #crochetalong #vinniscolours #cottonyarn #nikkim #yarnized #crochetlovey #crochetsofttoy #crochetanimal

BONNIE & CLYDE HORSE PART 3

© 2020 |Designed by Melanie Grobler | MandMCrochetDesigns | All Rights are Reserved.

The design, pattern, and all images are the property of MandMCrochetDesigns. The purchaser of this pattern may use it for personal use and/or charity.  Sales of the finished items are encouraged, and credit given to the designer would be most appreciated. No part of the written pattern may be reproduced, altered, or distributed in any form, or by any means, without express written permission from Melanie Grobler | MandMCrochetDesigns.

 

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