Melly Teddy Ragdoll Sleepy Bunny | MandMCrochetDesigns | #crochetalong #freepattern #freecal #CAL #vinnisnikkim #amagarumi #crochetsofttoy #crochetlovey #crochettoy #crochetbunny

Melly Teddy Ragdoll Sleepy Bunny PART 3

Melly Teddy Ragdoll Sleepy Bunny PART 3

This Melly Teddy Ragdoll Sleepy Bunny PART 3 is part of a CAL, and you will make an adorable bunny perfect for babies and small children.  In this part you will be making the body for both the girl and the boy bunny.

“Share the art within you with the ones you love…”

Melly Teddy Ragdoll Sleepy Bunny PART 3 | MandMCrochetDesigns | #freecal #freepattern #mellyteddy #sleepybunny #amagarumi #loveytoy #crochet bunny

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I just loooooove to see my designs come to life by other creative souls, so post as many photos of your gorgeous Melly Teddy Ragdoll Sleepy Bunny crochet project as you like.

You set your pace and work at your own time!

 

Melly Teddy Ragdoll Sleepy Bunny PART 3 | MandMCrochetDesigns | #freecal #freepattern #mellyteddy #sleepybunny #amagarumi #loveytoy #crochet bunny

Love & Favorite On Ravelry here!

For more information click

here for the PREAMBLE

here for PART 1

here for PART 2

MATERIALS USED

  • 2 x 50g balls Vinnis Colours Nikkim DK 100% cotton (A)
  • 2 x 50g balls Vinnis Colours Nikkim DK 100% cotton (B)
  • 1 x 50g ball Vinnis Colours Nikkim DK 100% cotton (C)
  • 3 x .8g twisties Vinnis Colours Nikkim DK 100% cotton (D)
  • 3.5mm hook
  • 100g unicurl/stuffing
  • Small amount of black embroidery thread or yarn for the nose/safety nose 15mm
  • 2 x safety eyes or thread/yarn for eyes 14mm
  • Sewing needle
  • Scissors

You are welcome to make the pattern in any yarn however depending on the yarn and your tension the size of the finished item may vary from mine.

I used the following colours for my boy and girl:

                        Boy                                                                       Girl

  • A             Stone #541                                                           Natural #500
  • B             Purple-Blue #588                                                  Pink #521
  • C             Blue Bell #533                                                       Ballet Pink #522
  • D             White #598                                                           White #598

YARN DETAILS

Vinnis Colours Nikkim 100% Cotton Yarn, which is colourfast and made in South Africa.  DK / Light Worsted – 119m/50g (130/1.75oz), recommended hook size: 4mm (USA G-6).  The yarn is hand dyed and balled by women from an economically depressed rural area of South Africa.  The sale of the product has empowered ad brought economic benefits to their community.  Hand dyed yarn gives your garment a unique marbled effect.

SPECIAL STITCHES & TECHNIQUES

NOTES & TIPS

  • My pattern uses US terminology
  • I have also included helpful hints along the way, which are in italics
  • Use your stitch marker as often as you can, to help with stitch counting – count your stitches
  • And lastly – have FUN with the pattern

ABBREVIATIONS

  • chain – ch
  • slip stitch – ss
  • single crochet – sc
  • half double crochet – hdc
  • double crochet – dc
  • crab st / reverse single crochet – rev sc (refer to special stitches)
  • 5 double crochet shell – 5 dc sh (refer to special stitches)
  • back loop only – blo (refer to special stitches)
  • single crochet two together – sc2tog (refer to special stitches)
  • half double crochet two together – hdc2tog (refer to special stitches)
  • double crochet two together – dc2tog (refer to special stitches)
  • repeat – rep
  • space/s – sp/s
  • stitch/s – st/s
  • magic circle – mc (refer to special stitches)
  • needle join – nj (refer to special stitches)

PART 3 – BOY

BODY

Not stuffed

Helpful hint: work into the outside loop of the chain for this round, we will use the inside loop of the chain later when we are finished with the body – see photos if you are unsure.

Helpful hint: the chain 1 at the beginning of each row does not count as a stitch, but it is important to make the chain 1, and you will see why as we go along – it makes a nice straight seam – make the chain 1 loose otherwise the seam will “pull” up on this side.

Using colour (C) yarn chain 32 and ss into the first chain to make a ring.

Round 1:        ch 1, dc into same ch, dc 14, 3 dc into next ch, dc 15, 3 dc into next ch, ss into 1st dc (36 dc)

Round 2:        ch 1, dc into same st, dc 16, 2 dc into next st, dc 17, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (38 dc)

Round 3:        ch 1, dc into same st, dc 17, 2 dc into next st, dc 18, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (40 dc)

Round 4:        ch 1, dc into same st, dc 18, 2 dc into next st, dc 19, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (42 dc)

Round 5:        ch 1, dc into same st, dc 19, 2 dc into next st, dc 20, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (44 dc)

Round 6:        ch 1, dc into same st, dc 20, 2 dc into next st, dc 21, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (46 dc)

Round 7:        ch 1, dc into same st, dc 21, 2 dc into next st, dc 22, 2 dc into next st, nj into 1st dc, cut yarn, weave in ends (48 dc)

Helpful hint:      change colour

Helpful hint: if you are not sure how to make a stitch into the back loop only, have a look at my Back Loop Only Photo Tutorial

Using colour (B) yarn (work in the blo only for round 8 ONLY), join yarn in the chain 1 space from round 7 with a slip stitch

Round 8:        ch 1, dc into same st, dc 22, 2 dc into next st, dc 23, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (50 dc)

Round 9:        ch 1, dc into same st, dc 23, 2 dc into next st, dc 24, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (52 dc)

Round 10:      ch 1, dc into same st, dc 24, 2 dc into next st, dc 25, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (54 dc)

Round 11:      ch 1, dc into same st, dc 25, 2 dc into next st, dc 26, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (56 dc)

Round 12:      ch 1, dc into same st, dc 26, 2 dc into next st, dc 27, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (58 dc)

Round 13:      ch 1, dc into same st, dc 27, 2 dc into next st, dc 28, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (60 dc)

Round 14:      ch 1, dc into same st, dc 28, 2 dc into next st, dc 29, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (62 dc)

Round 15:      ch 1, dc into same st, dc 29, 2 dc into next st, dc 30, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (64 dc)

Round 16:      ch 1, dc into same st, dc 30, 2 dc into next st, dc 31, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (66 dc)

Round 17:      ch 1, dc into same st, dc 31, 2 dc into next st, dc 32, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (68 dc)

Round 18:      ch 1, dc into same st, dc 32, 2 dc into next st, dc 33, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (70 dc)

First leg

Round 19:      ch 1, dc into same st, dc 13, skip 42, dc 14, ss into 1st dc (28 dc)

Round 20–23:           ch 1, dc into same st, dc 27, ss into 1st dc (28 dc)

Helpful hint: if you are not sure how to make a reverse single crochet (crab stitch), have a look at my Crab Stitch Photo Tutorial

Round 24:      ch 1, crab stitch into the same st, crab stitch into next 27 sts, ss into 1st crab st (28 crab sts), cut yarn leaving a 15cm tail to use later when we attach the leg.

Second leg

Helpful hint: skip 7 stitches from round 18 after the first leg, join yarn B to the 8th double crochet with a slip stitch.

Round 19:      ch 1, dc into same st, dc 27, ss into dc (28 dc)

Round 20–23:           ch 1, dc into same st, dc 27, ss into dc (28 dc)

Round 24:      ch 1, crab stitch into the same st, crab stitch into next 27 sts, ss into 1st crab st (28 crab sts), cut yarn leaving a 15cm tail to use later when we attach the shoe.

Neck

Using colour (C) join yarn in the middle of the back of the neck (round 1) with a slip stitch

Helpful hint: join yarn at one side of the neck at the top of the opening – in other words, round 1 (where we are going to attach the head).

Round 1:        ch 1, sc into same st, sc 31 along the neck ch, ss into 1st sc (32 sc)

Round 2:        ch 1, sc2tog, sc into next 2 sts, rep (24 sc) cut yarn, and leave a long tail to stitch the neck together when we join the head to the body in part 6.

PART 3 – GIRL

BODY

Helpful hint: the photos for the majority of the making of the body are the same for the boy, so have a look at the boy body section if you get stuck, where there is a difference, I have included these photos of the girl body at the end of the pattern.

Helpful hint: work into the outside loop of the chain for this round, we will use the inside loop of the chain later when we are finished with the body – see photos if you are unsure.

Helpful hint: the chain 1 at the beginning of each row does not count as a stitch, but it is important to make the chain 1, and you will see why as we go along – it makes a nice straight seam – make the chain 1 loose otherwise the seam will “pull” up on this side.

Using colour (C) yarn chain 32 and ss into the first chain to make a ring

Round 1:        ch 1, dc into same ch, dc 14, 3 dc into next ch, dc 15, 3 dc into next ch, ss into 1st dc (36 dc)

Round 2:        ch 1, dc into same st, dc 16, 2 dc into next st, dc 17, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (38 dc)

Round 3:        ch 1, dc into same st, dc 17, 2 dc into next st, dc 18, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (40 dc)

Round 4:        ch 1, dc into same st, dc 18, 2 dc into next st, dc 19, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (42 dc)

Round 5:        ch 1, dc into same st, dc 19, 2 dc into next st, dc 20, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (44 dc)

Round 6:        ch 1, dc into same st, dc 20, 2 dc into next st, dc 21, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (46 dc)

Round 7:        ch 1, dc into same st, dc 21, 2 dc into next st, dc 22, 2 dc into next st, nj into 1st dc, cut yarn, weave in ends (48 dc)

Helpful hint:      change colour

Using colour (B) yarn (work in the blo only for round 8 ONLY), join yarn in the chain 1 space from round 7 with a slip stitch.

Helpful hint: if you are not sure how to make a stitch into the back loop only, have a look at my Back Loop Only Photo Tutorial

Round 8:        work in blo, ch 1, dc into same st, dc 22, 2 dc into next st, dc 23, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (50 dc)

Round 9:        ch 1, dc into same st, dc 23, 2 dc into next st, dc 24, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (52 dc)

Round 10:      ch 1, dc into same st, dc 24, 2 dc into next st, dc 25, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (54 dc)

Round 11:      ch 1, dc into same st, dc 25, 2 dc into next st, dc 26, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (56 dc)

Round 12:      ch 1, dc into same st, dc 26, 2 dc into next st, dc 27, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (58 dc)

Round 13:      ch 1, dc into same st, dc 27, 2 dc into next st, dc 28, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (60 dc)

Round 14:      ch 1, dc into same st, dc 28, 2 dc into next st, dc 29, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (62 dc)

Round 15:      ch 1, dc into same st, dc 29, 2 dc into next st, dc 30, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (64 dc)

Round 16:      ch 1, dc into same st, dc 30, 2 dc into next st, dc 31, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (66 dc)

Round 17:      ch 1, dc into same st, dc 31, 2 dc into next st, dc 32, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (68 dc)

Round 18:      ch 1, dc into same st, dc 32, 2 dc into next st, dc 33, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (70 dc)

Round 19:      ch 1, dc into same st, dc 33, 2 dc into next st, dc 34, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (72 dc)

Round 20:      ch 1, dc into same st, dc 34, 2 dc into next st, dc 35, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (74 dc)

Round 21:      ch 1, dc into same st, dc 35, 2 dc into next st, dc 36, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (76 dc)

Round 22:      ch 1, dc into same st, dc 36, 2 dc into next st, dc 37, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (78 dc)

Round 23:      ch 1, dc into same st, dc 37, 2 dc into next st, dc 38, 2 dc into next st, ss into 1st dc (80 dc)

Helpful hint: if you are not sure how to make a 5 double crochet shell stitch, have a look at my 5 Double Crochet Shell Stitch Photo Tutorial

Round 24:      ch 1, *sc into same st, sk next st, dc 5 into next st, skip next st,*  rep ** 20 times, ss into 1st sc, cut yarn and leave a 40cm tail to stitch skirt together when you add the legs (20 x 5 dc shells, 20 sc)

Neck

Using colour (C) yarn join in the middle of the back of the neck (round 1) with a slip stitch.

Helpful hint: join yarn at one side of the neck at the top of the opening – in other words, round 1 (where we are going to attach the head).

Round 1:        ch 1, sc into same st, sc 31 along the neck ch, ss into 1st sc (32 sc)

Round 2:        ch 1, sc2tog, sc into next 2 sts, rep (24 sc) cut yarn, and leave a long tail to stitch the neck together when we join the head to the body in part 6.

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If you would like to purchase the ad free, inexpensive PDF pattern, which includes step by step instructions, high quality photos, links to video and photo tutorials as well as a full tutorial pattern for $4.50

 

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