Sweet Child O’Mine Slouchy Beanie
The Sweet Child O’Mine Slouchy Beanie is a free pattern.
The Sweet Child O’Mine Slouchy beanie is a quick to make and oh so easy. It is one of those patterns that you can whip up in an hour and make last minute birthday gifts…or you can make one for that special man/men in your life.
“Share the art within you with the ones you love…”
Get the slouchy beanie crochet pattern for free below or you can purchase the advert free version from my Ravelry store here. The inexpensive, instant download PDF pattern includes high quality photos, helpful hints and links to photo tutorials.
PLEASE SHARE THIS FREE PATTERN
I just loooooove to see my designs come to life by other creative souls, so post as many photos of your gorgeous crochet project as you like.
You set your pace and work at your own time!
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What you will crochet: A slouchy beanie for an adult.
- 1 x 100g ball Baby One Kartopu 100% Acrylic Anti-pilling – 2 strands
- 6 mm hook
- Sewing needle
- Weight – double knit
- 100g – 250m
You are welcome to make the pattern in any yarn however depending on the yarn and your tension the size of the finished item may vary from mine.
- Link to Needle Join Photo Tutorial here
- Link to Magic Circle Photo Tutorial here
- Half Double Crochet 3rd Loop – insert hook in the back loop and work your hdc
NOTES AND TIPS
- My pattern uses US terminology
- I have also included helpful hints along the way, which are in italics
- Use your stitch marker as often as you can, to help with stitch counting – count your stitches
- And lastly – have FUN with the pattern
- chain – ch
- slip stitch – ss
- single crochet – sc
- half double crochet – hdc
- half double crochet 3rd loop – hdc 3 loop
- space – sp
- stitch/s – st/s
- magic circle – mc (refer to special stitches)
- needle join – nj (refer to special stitches)
Using a 6mm hook and 2 strands of yarn make a mc
Round 1: ch 1, hdc 10 into mc (10 hdc), close mc tightly
Helpful hint: do not slip stitch into the 1st hdc, but place your stitch marker in the last hdc of round 1, and make the 1st hdc for round 2 in the 1st hdc of round 1, working in the round, and not in rows means there will be no join, and when we do the border, we will “straighten” the edge.
Round 2: 2 hdc into each st in the round (20 hdc)
Round 3: *2 hdc into next st, hdc* rep 9 more times (30 hdc)
Round 4: *2 hdc into next st, hdc into next 2 sts* rep 9 more times (40 hdc)
Round 5: *2 hdc into next st, hdc into next 3 sts* rep 9 more times (50 hdc)
Round 6: *2 hdc into next st, hdc into next 4 sts* rep 9 more times (60 hdc)
Round 7: hdc into next 60 sts (60 hdc)
Round 8 – 11: repeat round 7 (60 hdc)
Round 12: *2 hdc into next st, hdc into next 9 sts* rep 5 more times (66 hdc)
Round 13: hdc into next 66 sts (66 hdc)
Round 14 – 20: repeat round 13 (66 hdc)
Round 21: hdc into the 3rd loop of next 66 sts (66 hdc)
Round 22: repeat round 2 (66 hdc)
Round 23: hdc into the 3rd loop of next 63 sts (63 hdc), sc into next st, ss into next 2 sts, cut yarn, join with a nj, weave in ends
Helpful hint: the reason I finished the last 3 sts as sc, ss, ss, is to make the last row “straight”, and you can use any join, but I find the needle join finishes the round beautifully, and you won’t easily see where you ended, which makes your work more professional.