Breast Cancer Awareness Boobies | MandMCrochetDesigns #CANSA #breastcancerawareness #hope #crochetboobies #moyayarn #moyacotton #breastcancer #breastprosthetic #freepattern #cancerawareness #amagarumi #freecrochetpattern

Breast Cancer Awareness Boobies

These Breast Cancer Awareness Boobies is part of the Breast Cancer Awareness initiative.  These Boobies are designed especially for women who have undergone mastectomies and need a breast prosthetic – this is very near and dear to me as I lost a granny from this terrible disease – 1 in 27 South African women suffer from breast cancer and many do not have money to have professional prosthetic’s or breast implants done, so this is my way of giving back.  Kits are being sold at cost price and the pattern is available for free. 

Breast Cancer Awareness Boobies | MandMCrochetDesigns #CANSA #breastcancerawareness #hope #crochetboobies #moyayarn #moyacotton #breastcancer #breastprosthetic #freepattern #cancerawareness #amagarumi #freecrochetpattern

 

These Boobies are designed especially for women who have undergone mastectomies and need breast prosthetic’s.  They are soft and light, comfortable to wear, the 100% natural yarn and stuffing allows the skin to breath and they are easy to wash, and cheap to replace.  They can be placed in a regular bra.

My pattern provides the instructions to make 3 different size Boobies – A/B cup, C/D cup and DD/E cup.

This is a free pattern which I designed in September 2018, after a friend suggested that I do one.  October is Breast Cancer Awareness Month in South Africa – make a set and donate to your local charity, or for a friend #crochetbreastprosthetics #breastcancerawareness #hope #mandmcrochetdesigns #freecrochetpattern #freepattern #breastcancersurvivor #breastcancerprosthesis

MATERIALS USED – exact amounts used noted under each size

  • Moya DK 100% cotton (A)
  • Moya DK 100% cotton (B)
  • Plastic pellets (60 g per Boobie) (Optional)
  • Pure wool 
  • Stitch marker
  • 3.5 mm hook (depending on your tension – if you work loose, go down a hook size)
  • Needle for sewing in ends
  • Scissors

You are welcome to make the Boobies in any yarn however depending on the yarn and tension the size of the finished item may vary from ours. I do however recommend that 100% cotton is used, as it is natural, washes well and is perfect for a breast prosthetic.

Also, note that the pellets in my Boobies have been put in loose, but if you are worried about them falling out (which they should not – unless you work very loosely), so you can always pop them in a stocking, and then put into the Boobie.  The reason I put pellets into my design is so that the Boobie has some “weight” to it – when the Boobie is placed in the bra the pellets fall to the bottom of the triangle so it sits better in the cup.

Breast Cancer Awareness Boobies | MandMCrochetDesigns #CANSA #breastcancerawareness #hope #crochetboobies #moyayarn #moyacotton #breastcancer #breastprosthetic #freepattern #cancerawareness #amagarumi #freecrochetpattern
To give you an idea of the difference in the size of the DD/E and the A/B cups

MoYa Yarns are hand dyed and should be washed separately as there may be slight residual surface dye. Machine washable. Dry flat. Do not bleach. Made in South Africa

Colourway 1

  • Natural (A)
  • Blush (B)

Colourway 2

  • Taupe (A)
  • Sepia (B)

Colourway 3

  • Burnt Fudge (A)
  • Chestnut (B)

NOTES & TIPS

  • My pattern uses US terminology
  • Crochet skill level – easy (and if you struggle there are photo tutorials to help you)
  • I have also included helpful hints along the way, which help me, and I hope help you too, and are in italics
  • There are also photo tutorials for special stitches and techniques
  • Please follow me on Instagram, Facebook and Ravelry and so you do not miss out on my Crochet Along’s join my Facebook Group
  • Use your stitch marker as often as you can, to help with stitch counting
  • And lastly, COUNT your stitches 

ABBREVIATIONS

US Terms

  • chain – ch
  • slip stitch – ss
  • single crochet – sc
  • space – sp
  • stitch/s – st/s
  • single crochet two together – sc2tog
  • magic circle – mc

SPECIAL STITCHES

Magic Circle Photo Tutorial

Single Crochet Two Together Photo Tutorial

PATTERN SIZE A/B CUP

  • 40 g Moya DK 100% cotton (A) (20 g per Boobie)
  • 5 g Moya DK 100% cotton (B) (2.5 g per Boobie)
  • 30 g Plastic pellets (15 g per Boobie) (Optional)
  • 30 g Pure wool (15 g per Boobie)

Helpful hint: worked in the round, so use a stitch marker to mark the end of each round.

Using colour B and a 3.5 mm hook make a magic circle

Round 1: ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc 5 into the mc (5)

Helpful hint: this next round makes the nipple, if you prefer not to make one, then just leave this round out and continue with round 3.

Round 2: sc into next 5 sts (5)

Round 3: 2 sc into each st (10)

Round 4: 2 sc into each st (20)

If your stitch count is correct, stitch in the tails so it does not get in your way whilst you are doing the next few rows.

Round 5: 2 sc into next st, sc into next 3 sts, rep around (25)

Change to colour A

Helpful hint: when you make your last stitch from round 5 (25th sc), do not pull colour through the two loops and finish the sc. Take the new colour and finish the sc with it, pull both threads firmly, and remember to put your stitch marker in the 25th stitch before you start on round 6.

Round 6: 2 sc into next st, sc into next 4 sts, rep around (30)

Round 7: 2 sc into next st, sc into next 5 sts, rep around (35)

Round 8: 2 sc into next st, sc into next 6 sts, rep around (40)

Round 9: 2 sc into next st, sc into next 7 sts, rep around (45)

Helpful hint: Be careful now, watch your stitch count and read the pattern, as the increases are not standard anymore. The circle is turning into a triangle.

Round 10: 3 sc into next st, 1 sc into next 14 sts, rep around (51)

Helpful hint: The first sc at the beginning of round 11 plus the last 15 sc makes up the 16 sc which are between the 2 sc increases. The first 2 sc at the beginning of round 12 plus the last 15 sts makes up the 17 sc which are between the 2 sc increases for that row, and so on…

Round 11: sc into next st, *2 sc into next st, sc into next 16 sts* rep *.*, 2 sc into next st, sc into next 15 sts (54)

Helpful hint: to avoid a “line” forming from “loose” stitches, from the stitch marker placement, make sure you pull the stitch tight when you begin the new round.

Round 12: sc into next 2 sts, *3 sc into next st, sc into next 17 sts* rep *.*, 3 sc into next st, sc into next 15 sts (60)

Round 13: sc into next 3 sts, *2 sc into next st, sc into next 19 sts* rep *.*, 2 sc into next st, sc into next 16 sts (63)

Round 14: sc into next 4 sts, *3 sc into next st, sc into next 20 sts*, rep *.*, 3 sc into next st, sc into next 16 sts (69)

Round 15: sc into next 5 sts, *2 sc into next st, sc into next 22 sts*, rep *.*, 2 sc into next st, sc into next 17 sts (72)

Round 16 – 17: sc into each st in the round (72)

Now to decrease

Helpful hint: the sc2tog should fall below the increase of each corner of the triangle.

Round 18: sc into next 5 sts,*sc2tog, sc into next 22 sts*, rep *.*, sc2tog, sc into next 17 sts (69)

Round 19: sc into next 5 sts,*sc2tog, sc into next 21 sts*, rep *.*, sc2tog, sc into next 16 sts (66)

Round 20: sc into next 5 sts,*sc2tog, sc into next 20 sts*, rep *.*, sc2tog, sc into next 15 sts (63)

Round 21: sc into next 5 sts,*sc2tog, sc into next 19 sts*, rep *.*, sc2tog, sc into next 14 sts (60)

Round 22: sc into next 5 sts,*sc2tog, sc into next 18 sts*, rep *.*, sc2tog, sc into next 13 sts (57)

Round 23: sc into next 5 sts,*sc2tog, sc into next 17 sts*, rep *.*, sc2tog, sc into next 17 sts (54)

Helpful hint: end of decrease in the triangle, now we decrease in the round.

Round 24: sc2tog, sc into next 4 sts, rep in the round (45)

Round 25: sc2tog, sc into next 3 sts, rep in the round (36)

Helpful hint: place plastic pellets and the wool stuffing until the Boobie feels firm but not too full, you want to be able to have a concave back – for the A cup use slightly less and for the B cup use a bit more.

Round 26: sc2tog, sc into next 2 sts, rep in the round (27)

Round 27: sc2tog, sc into next st, rep in the round (18)

Round 28: sc2tog, rep in the round (9)

Helpful hint: cut off yarn, leaving a 15 cm tail, ss into all remaining stitches, pull tight, weave in ends carefully, keeping back inverted/concave.

 

PATTERN SIZE C/D CUP

  • g Moya DK 100% cotton (A) (g per Boobie)
  •  g Moya DK 100% cotton (B) (g per Boobie)
  • g Plastic pellets (g per Boobie) (Optional)
  • g Pure wool (g per Boobie)

Helpful hint: worked in the round, so use a stitch marker to mark the end of each round.

Using colour B and a 3.5 mm hook make a magic circle

Round 1: ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc 5 into the mc (5)

Helpful hint: this next round makes the nipple, if you prefer not to make one, then just leave this round out and continue with round 3.

Round 2: sc into next 5 sts (5)

Round 3: 2 sc into each st (10)

Round 4: 2 sc into each st (20)

If your stitch count is correct, stitch in the tails so it does not get in your way whilst you are doing the next few rows.

Round 5: 2 sc into next st, sc into next 3 sts, rep around (25)

Change to colour A

Helpful hint: when you make your last stitch from round 5 (25th sc), do not pull colour through the two loops and finish the sc. Take the new colour and finish the sc with it, pull both threads firmly, and remember to put your stitch marker in the 25th stitch before you start on round 6.

Round 6: 2 sc into next st, sc into next 4 sts, rep around (30)

Round 7: 2 sc into next st, sc into next 5 sts, rep around (35)

Round 8: 2 sc into next st, sc into next 6 sts, rep around (40)

Round 9: 2 sc into next st, sc into next 7 sts, rep around (45)

Helpful hint: Be careful now, watch your stitch count and read the pattern, as the increases are not standard anymore. The circle is turning into a triangle.

Round 10: 3 sc into next st, 1 sc into next 14 sts, rep around (51)

Helpful hint: The first sc at the beginning of round 11 plus the last 15 sc makes up the 16 sc which are between the 2 sc increases. The first 2 sc at the beginning of round 12 plus the last 15 sts makes up the 17 sc which are between the 2 sc increases for that row, and so on…

Round 11: sc into next st, *2 sc into next st, sc into next 16 sts* rep *.*, 2 sc into next st, sc into next 15 sts (54)

Helpful hint: to avoid a “line” forming from “loose” stitches, from the stitch marker placement, make sure you pull the stitch tight when you begin the new round.

Round 12: sc into next 2 sts, *3 sc into next st, sc into next 17 sts* rep *.*, 3 sc into next st, sc into next 15 sts (60)

Round 13: sc into next 3 sts, *2 sc into next st, sc into next 19 sts* rep *.*, 2 sc into next st, sc into next 16 sts (63)

Round 14: sc into next 4 sts, *3 sc into next st, sc into next 20 sts*, rep *.*, 3 sc into next st, sc into next 16 sts (69)

Round 15: sc into next 5 sts, *2 sc into next st, sc into next 22 sts*, rep *.*, 2 sc into next st, sc into next 17 sts (72)

Round 16: sc into next 6 sts, *2 sc into next st, sc into next 23 sts*, rep *.*, 2 sc into next st, sc into next 17 sts (75)

Round 17: sc into next 7 sts, *2 sc into next st, sc into next 24 sts*, rep *.*, 2 sc into next st, sc into next 17 sts (78)

Round 18 – 21: sc into each st in the round (78)

Now to decrease

Helpful hint: the sc2tog should fall below the increase of each corner of the triangle.

Round 22: sc into next 6 sts,*sc2tog, sc into next 24 sts*, rep *.*, sc2tog, sc into next 18 sts (75)

Round 23: sc into next 6 sts,*sc2tog, sc into next 23 sts*, rep *.*, sc2tog, sc into next 17 sts (72)

Round 24: sc into next 6 sts,*sc2tog, sc into next 22 sts*, rep *.*, sc2tog, sc into next 16 sts (69)

Round 25: sc into next 6 sts,*sc2tog, sc into next 21 sts*, rep *.*, sc2tog, sc into next 15 sts (66)

Round 26: sc into next 6 sts,*sc2tog, sc into next 20 sts*, rep *.*, sc2tog, sc into next 14 sts (63)

Round 27: sc into next 6 sts,*sc2tog, sc into next 19 sts*, rep *.*, sc2tog, sc into next 13 sts (60)

Round 28: sc into next 6 sts,*sc2tog, sc into next 18 sts*, rep *.*, sc2tog, sc into next 12 sts (57)

Round 29: sc into next 6 sts,*sc2tog, sc into next 17 sts*, rep *.*, sc2tog, sc into next 11 sts (54)

Helpful hint: end of decrease in the triangle, now we decrease in the round.

Round 30: sc2tog, sc into next 4 sts, rep in the round (45)

Round 31: sc2tog, sc into next 3 sts, rep in the round (36)

Helpful hint: place plastic pellets and the wool stuffing until the Boobie feels firm but not too full, you want to be able to have a concave back – for the C cup use slightly less and for the D cup use a bit more.

Round 32: sc2tog, sc into next 2 sts, rep in the round (27)

Round 2: sc2tog, sc into next st, rep in the round (18)

Round 28: sc2tog, rep in the round (9)

Helpful hint: cut off yarn, leaving a 15 cm tail, ss into all remaining stitches, pull tight, weave in ends carefully, keeping back inverted/concave.

 

PATTERN SIZE DD/E CUP

  • 70 g Moya DK 100% cotton (A) (35 g per Boobie)
  • 6 g Moya DK 100% cotton (B) (3 g per Boobie)
  • 120 g Plastic pellets (60 g per Boobie) (Optional)
  • 60 g Pure wool (30 g per Boobie)

Helpful hint: worked in the round, so use a stitch marker to mark the end of each round.

Using colour B and a 3.5 mm hook make a magic circle

Round 1: ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc 5 into the mc (5)

Helpful hint: this next round makes the nipple, if you prefer not to make one, then just leave this round out and continue with round 3.

Round 2: sc into next 5 sts (5)

Round 3: 2 sc into each st (10)

Round 4: 2 sc into each st (20)

If your stitch count is correct, stitch in the tails so it does not get in your way whilst you are doing the next few rows.

Round 5: 2 sc into next st, sc into next 3 sts, rep around (25)

Round 6: 2 sc into next st, sc into next 4 sts, rep around (30)

Round 7: 2 sc into next st, sc into next 5 sts, rep around (35)

Round 8: 2 sc into next st, sc into next 6 sts, rep around (40)

Change to colour A

Helpful hint: when you make your last stitch from round 8 (40th sc), do not pull colour through the two loops and finish the sc. Take the new colour and finish the sc with it, pull both threads firmly, and remember to put your stitch marker in the 40th stitch before you start on round 9.

Round 9: 2 sc into next st, sc into next 7 sts, rep around (45)

Helpful hint: Be careful now, watch your stitch count and read the pattern, as the increases are not standard anymore. The circle is turning into a triangle.

Round 10: 3 sc into next st, 1 sc into next 14 sts, rep around (51)

Helpful hint: The first sc at the beginning of round 11 plus the last 15 sc makes up the 16 sc which are between the 2 sc increases. The first 2 sc at the beginning of round 12 plus the last 15 sts makes up the 17 sc which are between the 2 sc increases for that row, and so on…

Round 11: sc into next st, *2 sc into next st, sc into next 16 sts* rep *.*, 2 sc into next st, sc into next 15 sts (54)

Helpful hint: to avoid a “line” forming from “loose” stitches, from the stitch marker placement, make sure you pull the stitch tight when you begin the new round.

Round 12: sc into next 2 sts, *3 sc into next st, sc into next 17 sts* rep *.*, 3 sc into next st, sc into next 15 sts (60)

Round 13: sc into next 3 sts, *2 sc into next st, sc into next 19 sts* rep *.*, 2 sc into next st, sc into next 16 sts (63)

Round 14: sc into next 4 sts, *3 sc into next st, sc into next 20 sts*, rep *.*, 3 sc into next st, sc into next 16 sts (69)

Round 15: sc into next 5 sts, *2 sc into next st, sc into next 22 sts*, rep *.*, 2 sc into next st, sc into next 17 sts (72)

Round 16: sc into next 6 sts, *3 sc into next st, sc into next 24 sts*, rep *.*, 3 sc into next st, sc into next 18 sts (81)

Round 17: sc into next 8 sts, *2 sc into next st, sc into next 26 sts*, rep *.*, 2 sc into next st, sc into next 18 sts (84)

Round 18: sc into next 9 sts, *3 sc into next st, sc into next 27 sts*, rep *.*, 3 sc into next st, sc into next 18 sts (90)

Round 19: sc into next 10 sts, *2 sc into next st, sc into next 29 sts*, rep *.*, 2 sc into next st, sc into next 19 sts (93)

Round 20 – 23: sc into each st in the round (93)

Now to decrease

Helpful hint: the sc2tog should fall below the increase of each corner of the triangle.

Round 24: sc into next 10 sts,*sc2tog, sc into next 29 sts*, rep *.*, sc2tog, sc into next 19 sts (90)

Round 25: sc into next 10 sts,*sc2tog, sc into next 28 sts*, rep *.*, sc2tog, sc into next 18 sts (87)

Round 26: sc into next 10 sts,*sc2tog, sc into next 27 sts*, rep *.*, sc2tog, sc into next 17 sts (84)

Round 27: sc into next 10 sts,*sc2tog, sc into next 26 sts*, rep *.*, sc2tog, sc into next 16 sts (81)

Helpful hint: end of decrease in the triangle, now we decrease in the round.

Round 28: sc2tog, sc into next 7 sts, rep in the round (72)

Round 29: sc2tog, sc into next 6 sts, rep in the round (63)

Round 30: sc2tog, sc into next 5 sts, rep in the round (54)

Round 31: sc2tog, sc into next 4 sts, rep in the round (45)

Round 32: sc2tog, sc into next 3 sts, rep in the round (36)

Helpful hint: place plastic pellets and the wool stuffing until the Boobie feels firm, but not too full, you want to be able to have a concave back – for the DD cup use slightly less and for the E cup use a bit more.

Round 33: sc2tog, sc into next 2 sts, rep in the round (27)

Round 34: sc2tog, sc into next st, rep in the round (18)

Round 35: sc2tog in the round (9)

Helpful hint: cut off yarn, leaving a 15 cm tail, ss into all remaining stitches, pull tight, weave in ends carefully, keeping back inverted/concave.

 

 

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